Electrical blade slip terminals

[HWYCRZR]

Going through my electrical harness and need to replace some wires, but have a quandary on what terminals to use in my connectors. I ordered some of e-bay that were supposed to be Mopar replacement blade connectors. I ended up with a couple of different types of which are not quite the same. Any advantage or disadvantage of the two different types. They seem to work, but not sure I like how they stick out of the connector. Original connector on right

Also a picture of the bulkhead terminal. I think you can see two of them sticking out.

Thank you

 

[Big_John]

This type is a Packard 56. I think it's a little more "positive" connection. It's also a touch harder to plug in and remove the male. In a bulkhead connector, that might make it difficult, but it might be worth the effort.

 

[Fury440]

Bulkhead Connector parts

Napa...part number 784490 for male and 784491 for female. The package says GM on it, but they work on Mopars also.

 

[BillGrissom]

Yes, "56 terminal" or "Packard 56", used on Mopar/GM. Packard was an electrical company (not the car). The "spade" connectors on home appliances are similar and can interchange. You might refer to the slightly extended female ones as "excited", but they will work fine. Fill the cavities w/ silicone grease to avoid corrosion. Insure the 2 cavities which carry the thick BAT (red) and ALT (blk) wires are pristine or those can melt the plastic. I always crimp then solder. 1965 (and 1963?) cars fed those thru on thick buss-bars.

Other connector trivia: turn signal terminals in early cars (~1970-) are "twin lock", also used on Fords. I found that the dual connector on some after-market electronic distributor pickups are incorrect, having male terminals a bit short which barely make contact with the car's harness (correct should have "excited" males). If junkyard diving, I have found that Dodge motor-homes used some 1960's connectors into the late 1980's so try picking those.

 

[CBODY67]

The females with the "spring tang" on the top push in from the backside and lock in place. Therefore, have any wiring attached to them BEFORE insertion into their insulator/fuseblock.

The OEM harnesses were just "crimped", but adding "soldered" should improve longevity, as with the dielectric silicone grease. The more surface contact area of the two mating connectors, the better, I suspect.

"Packard Electric" was an OEM GM supplier, if not an earlier part of GM itself.

CBODY67

 

[halifaxhops]

I custom built the engine harness in my dart after a fire, I ordered a kit with Packard 56 terminals and plugs, worked perfect, you just want to have the proper crimper for it.

 

[halifaxhops]

Great info in this thread, let me add one thing if you do also solder them rinse them off with denatured alcohol to get the flux off it does create corrosion on the terminals.

 

[Big_John]

FYI. From the GM Heritage Center.

The Packard Electric Company was formed in Warren, Ohio, in 1890 and initially produced incandescent light bulbs. Branching out to automobiles, it built the first Packard motor car in 1899. The Packard Motor Car Company was split off from Packard Electric in 1902 and Packard Electric began focusing more and more of its business on automotive components. Packard Electric became part of General Motors in 1932. By the 1980s, it was the industry's leading producer of wire harnesses and other electrical automotive components. It became part of Delphi Automotive Systems in 1995. Today known as Delphi Packard Electric Systems, it remains part of Delphi Automotive Systems, which was spun off from GM in 1999.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

I just went through this. I prefer the eBay ones I ordered because they fit fine and have a more positive and robust connection when put together.

You'll have no worries.

 

[CBODY67]

FYI. From the GM Heritage Center.

Thanks for that relayed info. I kind of always figured there was some connection to the Packard car entity, but didn't really know how. The Painless Wiring company was born out of a "garage business" in Fort Worth, TX. Two friends built wiring harnesses for street rods, but used OEM GM/Packard terminals and connectors to do it. At the time, the quality of materials in pre-built wiring harnesses was highly variable, even in the repro area. Some did have the correct color codes and such, but the gauge of the wiring AND the thickness of the insulation was VERY variable. Some were good, some were not-so-good. And things grew from there. NOT a plug for the company, just information of how it began. Quality components were the key.

CBODY67

 

[Big_John]

Thanks for that relayed info. I kind of always figured there was some connection to the Packard car entity, but didn't really know how. The Painless Wiring company was born out of a "garage business" in Fort Worth, TX. Two friends built wiring harnesses for street rods, but used OEM GM/Packard terminals and connectors to do it. At the time, the quality of materials in pre-built wiring harnesses was highly variable, even in the repro area. Some did have the correct color codes and such, but the gauge of the wiring AND the thickness of the insulation was VERY variable. Some were good, some were not-so-good. And things grew from there. NOT a plug for the company, just information of how it began. Quality components were the key.

CBODY67

I think electrical stuff is pretty sketchy from a lot of vendors now. Quality of connectors and wire is all over the place.

I've been buying wire from NAPA. They seem to be the only "brick and mortar" source for wire where I can buy as I need it and have it be decent quality.

 

[HWYCRZR]

Thanks all. Yes it was the lock style I am doing. I haven’t found too many of the basic non lock ones in my harness. I will probably proceed with the Packard style I have since I already have the “tinned” and brass one’s. I also have the crimp tool that @commando1 recommended in another thread sometime back. I seemed to go through a couple of sacrificial terminals to get it just right, but now it works slick.
I had to rebuild my entire rear light harness as many wires were cut and spliced to tie in the boat trailer lights back in the 70’s. Probably a whole other story.
After I get my light sockets finished cleaning up and re-plating I am sending it and my body harness to Rhode Island wiring to get it re- loomed to look original. They have the correct cloth loom and colors for around $4-5 per foot with a small set up charge.
I will post my harness updates and progress to my restoration thread.

 

[Fury440]

Crimping with the proper tool is a must, but do not solder. All automotive wire is stranded to allow flexing due to vibration. Solid strand, like house wire will break very quickly due to metal fatigue. When you solder multi-strand wire, solder "wicks" up between the strands to create a 1/2 or so section of solid wire. If soldering is required then the wire must be tied down to isolate it from vibration.

 

[HWYCRZR]

Another question for the masses reguarding the contact buttons in light sockets.
I found some brass ones from Rhode Island Wiring, but they don’t have the strain relief that captures the insulated part of the wire to prevent it from pulling out.
I have two questions:
On the brass ones with out strain relief are you supposed to crimp them or solder them?
Question 2
Has anyone found a source for the original style buttons wit the strain relief?

 

[CBODY67]

As for the stranded vs solid wire issue. Remember that all of the current of the wire is carried on the outer surface of the conductor, not through the middle. Hence, stranded wire has more total surface area for more current flow for the assembled wire. The issues of flex and stiffness do make solid wire a not-the-best choice for automotive use. IF a wire vibrates, adding a little more length might change the resonant frequency of that wiring section to decrease flex, I suspect, as would additional supports, or being in a loom of some sort.

CBODY67

 

[Dan Scully]

I custom built the engine harness in my dart after a fire, I ordered a kit with Packard 56 terminals and plugs, worked perfect, you just want to have the proper crimper for it.
View attachment 153133

This is one style , gives you a perfect double crimp on the insulated and wire end.

 

[Fury440]

As for the stranded vs solid wire issue. Remember that all of the current of the wire is carried on the outer surface of the conductor, not through the middle.

Not really in DC circuits, skin effects start to show more in High Voltage AC.

Hence, stranded wire has more total surface area for more current flow for the assembled wire.

Again not in low voltage DC circuits. What does happen is the total current is divided evenly between all the strands. IE 20 amps over 40 strand wire means each strand must safely pass half an amp without melting.

The defense used for metal fatigue includes a tight wiring harness, lots of able clamps and zero unsupported cabling. A bad job won't bite you now, but it will in 5 or 10 years and usually at the worst possible moment. LOL

 

[vdk2010]

Another question for the masses reguarding the contact buttons in light sockets.
I found some brass ones from Rhode Island Wiring, but they don’t have the strain relief that captures the insulated part of the wire to prevent it from pulling out.
I have two questions:
On the brass ones with out strain relief are you supposed to crimp them or solder them?
Question 2
Has anyone found a source for the original style buttons wit the strain relief?

View attachment 153241

View attachment 153249

I bought these and they work perfect!
Lamp Socket Brass Terminal Contact Replacement Repair Connector