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I like it, any issues with heat having it mounted in the ECU box?
I bought my "lifetime supply"(3) of spare ballasts and ECUs from Bill... I haven't had need of any, but am happy to have a spare with each car. My Formals came with these... so I'm doing nothing but maintaining them. I do understand the change from a faulty lean burn system, but IDK if I would go there with a good points distributor (or good lean burn). I did pick up a very good price on a spectra Chinese distributor, I toss the box in the trunk for bigger road trips... but doubt I'll ever use it for myself. I figure it may eventually help out a friend, but will work mostly as insurance that I won't have distributor related problems when I carry it.
My only real issue with this idea... once upgraded to a true 12volt coil, you will likely need to screw around with plug heat ranges and/or gaps a little bit... not rocket surgery, but not something I would consider a plug and play replacement either.
No issues in 1,000 miles this summer. Use heat sink compound between the module and ECU body.
I must be Extremely lucky with Chinese junk. I installed a proform kit (probably all Chinese) on my daily driven 68 dart, back in 2013 and 82,000 miles later it still works great.
I drive like an old lady, and it's a ton of highway miles, so maybe that helps.
The kit I have for the fury is another proform kit from ebay because of past experience. Maybe it's junk??? .... to be seen.
However i do like the solid state, old style voltage regulators, that is absolutely brilliant.
I always thought the original Mopar electronic ignition was good but after having Pertronix on my 300 and now a GM 4 pin module in my Charger there are better alternatives.
I am running Proform on 3 cars but my last go round with them on my 79 wasted half a day and resulted in using the old conversion 30 year old distributor when the “new” Proform shaft was 3mm short and wouldn’t engage the cam drive gear. I’ll trade @Tobias74 for a good one when he’s not looking....
The solid state VR is brilliant... the Chinese stuff is probably hit or miss. It doesn't seem like much of anything new has the quality the older parts had.
Gee... do you think he'll catch on?
Nothing worse than finding out you are short shafted....gonna go read some more Kenny posts....
Indeed, it is a great idea. I wrestled for a year on the 413 in my 300L because of 'pinging'. After the conversion, with its new distributor and advance systems, car was docile as a kitten. Hid the orange box under the battery so it didn't show. Also, after more than a year of owning a 300F with it's factory tach drive oem distributor, I was surprised to find the restorer had replaced the oem points platform with the guts of the EI from Mopar and put the orange box under the battery tray. Clever!
I went all out with a total MSD ignition on my 78 NYB. MSD Pro Billet electronic distributor, 6AL Ignition Box, MSD Power Blaster II coil. I have started it about 100 times during the build doing different unrelated wiring fab, cooling fans, 1 wire alternator, A/C mods, fan regulators, aftermarket gauges, etc. I've driven about 250 miles so far and she fires right up and I haven't experienced any problems so far.
Mopar Performance offered a tach drive electronic Prestolite distributor in the seventies. I believe it may have been available in some of the larger trucks too.
Yes they did, Has the racing reluctor also easy to tell it apart.
Kenny posts WORDS???
Yeah! Two at a time......
I ran a Mallory unit for years on my 383, it was an under the cap direct replacement for ignition points, and it performed flawlessly. Has 3 wires and works with your stock coil. Just make sure to bypass the ballast resistor!! There are also several ready to run distributor options available through the aftermarket that are easy to install. I had already converted my charging system over using a 3-wire, Toyota alternator with a built in VR so I didn’t need to fiddle with that.
Nothing different than in A-bodies, indeed some Darts had a factory big-block engine, so read posts there. Easiest is the GM 8-pin module and their coil, plus cables which connect them. TrailBeast on the A-body site has a website selling those new as a kit, or junkyard is cheap (1985-95 V-8 trucks). If you want to keep the factory look, Pertronix fits under the cap of a points distributor. Get ver II to be equiv to HEI (no ballast) or III to add multi-spark and rev limiter. Simplest and cheapest is probably the Ningbo ready-to-run distributor ($60 ebay) w/ an e-core coil ($20 ebay).
Heres is a funny. The 79 volare, very original, I have tuned it to plugs, wires, everything, etc.. BuT had not replaced what looks like the oem ECU box that had done the "melt all the black insulation out and nothing left to the insides " but the electronic stuff. The car ran pretty good after tune,but still had a slight miss. I changed the ECU to a new one and of course, runs great now. It was so funny how this car ran with the old ecu in that pitiful condition!! Car has 97,000 that looks to be correct.
I admit I keep using the currently available mopar EU system and have no problem, BUT I am no doubt lucky. I hate the looks of the GM HEI and using bastard parts, but I admit they probably are a good alternative!! ( I rather be lucky than good!)...
The module I have seen used the most often is the 4 pin used from about 1975 in all GM's to about 1985 in some trucks. The modules with more pins are usually for EST from the computer.
You will need a computer to run an 8-pin HEI module. The 4-pin HEI module is a standalone ignition system. I converted my 65 Barracuda over to the Mopar EI system back in the mid-80s and, other than couple of burned out modules over the years, it was a big improvement over the points system. I converted to the 4-pin HEI system this year and it works great. I found that it has a hotter spark that allows me run leaner cruising fuel mixtures with my Quadrajet for better fuel economy. The Mopar EI system had a lean limit and would misfire.
See HEI Ignition Upgrade