Electronic Ignition Installation successful

kosovocop05

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This went real well. I took my time and with an abled bodied fellow Mopar C body owner with me we carefully followed the included directions from Summit Racing to a 'T'. You are given two options, a Race car installation option and a Street option, I chose the later. I attached photos as it is simpler to see than explain. My 383 4v started right up and after a warm up drive she dropped a half second off her zero-60 time. I'm happy. This was an affordable way to move to electronic ignition as my Vacuum Advance had failed and the price to replace it was about 75% of the cost of the entire system I installed which included a new distributor, electronic control module and ballast resistor and a wiring harness too.

Proform Ballast 66 Fury.JPG


Proform ECM 1966 Fury 383.JPG


Proform Distributor 1966 Fury 383.JPG
 

detmatt

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Nice work. It’ll be interesting to hear your review on the overall performance of the system. I hope that’s not one of “those” orange boxes....
 

detmatt

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Sure looks Orange to me Matt, is there something I am missing?
Notoriously poor quality on them for quite some time. The last one I bought wasn’t worth a dime so I just replaced it with a chrome box. I didn’t even want a replacement orange box because of their reputation.
 

Turboomni

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What ever electronic ignition you settle on I would have a spare in your glove box cause you won't find parts for it at Autozone in stock or anywhere else.
In a box in my trunk since I use points I have a few extra sets of points ,condensers,ballast resistors, a coil and a little tool kit.
It would suck to be towed cause you didn't have a few redundant parts.
 

Sixpactogo

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IMO, the biggest problem with the orange box is not having it grounded properly. Some have mentioned putting a star washer under the mounting screws. Sounds like a good idea to me.
 

mr. fix it

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Interesting... My system has been acting up lately and it has an orange Mopar box.
Haven't taken the time to diagnose just yet. This thread may have saved me some time figuring out if it was the module or the distributor internals.
 

3C's & a D?

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IMO, the biggest problem with the orange box is not having it grounded properly. Some have mentioned putting a star washer under the mounting screws. Sounds like a good idea to me.

The same can be said of all brainboxes, regarding grounding. It looks like the original poster has only one side grounded, should be "good enough", however it may be a good idea to attach a lead on the other side to a ground.
 

Old Mike

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1A2FFE34-DFB3-4DAA-85FE-2E7CD1143489.jpeg
Glad it was successful. My orange box lasted about 3 hours. Replaced it with a black generic $10 Rock Auto one and have never looked back.
I got my setup from Rock Auto. Couldn’t have been any easier. But before I installed the box, I masked the plug area and the heat sink, gave it a light sanding, and painted it Mopar orange. The car wouldn’t start initially, but it turned out to be the air gap. I set it with a non-magnetic feeler guage and she fired right up and has been running real nice ever since.
 
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Bucket

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I have just taken the engine out of my 61 Newport (361 Big Block)
It has electronic ignition (orange box) installed by the previous owner .
I noticed there is a condenser on the outside of the dizzy connected to the battery + on the alternator .
From a previous electronic install on my Slant 6 Valiant i thought this wasn't needed ?
Also i ran resistor spark plugs on that install , do i need these with the Mopar Electronic ignition .
The 361 is currently running NGK BP5S .
 

twostick

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I have just taken the engine out of my 61 Newport (361 Big Block)
It has electronic ignition (orange box) installed by the previous owner .
I noticed there is a condenser on the outside of the dizzy connected to the battery + on the alternator .
From a previous electronic install on my Slant 6 Valiant i thought this wasn't needed ?
Also i ran resistor spark plugs on that install , do i need these with the Mopar Electronic ignition .
The 361 is currently running NGK BP5S .

Could be to quiet down an electronically noisy alternator. Sometimes the radio will pick up a signal off the alternator that plays through the speakers and increase/decreases with engine speed.

Kevin
 

Bucket

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Thanks Kevin , i didn't even think of that .
I will add the electronic install on my slant 6 was the HEI Mod as described on slant6.org .
This could be why i needed resistor spark plugs
 

halifaxhops

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There are a ton of fake ecu's out there two easy wats to tell at a glance are the height of the transistor, usally the fake ones are around 3/8" high and a real one 5/16 or so. Another way to tell at a glance is if there is printing on the transistor and also a insulating pad under it. Just two ways to tell. New ones are a real crap shoot now.

Real
s-l1600-jpg-jpg.jpg

dsc00092-jpg-jpg.jpg

mexico-jpg.jpg



Fake
20201029_231953-jpg.jpg
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lx100guts-jpg.jpg
20201030_153635-jpg.jpg


Hope it helps.
 

FURYGT

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Kosovocop05, I hope that the ballast resistor that you installed is a heavy duty version. If not, I recommend that you get one.

On the subject of ignition modules, if they are mounted so that air circulates around the back, they will last longer. Most of the Chryslers built in the '70's had them mounted a bracket to allow air circulation.

I have been selling a marine rated ignition module for around 15 years, maybe longer and they are a quality part even though they are made in China. $20 + shipping. Several members have purchased these from me over the years and have been very happy with them. My eBay listing:

High Quality Mopar Replacement Or Conversion Ignition Module / ECU Black 5-Pin | eBay
 

tim howe

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Hi guys, having trouble after installing new plug wires, no start, no power, no nothin", I have the GM style HEI dist. Would the coil inside be bad or a fuse. Where are the fuses located on a 66 Fury (Sport)? ny help would be appreciated
 

Ross Wooldridge

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Car is completely dead? Check the battery cable connections to the battery first.

Then, check the fusible link going from the start relay to the bulkhead. Now would be a good time to bypass the amp gauge wires that run through the bulkhead - the big black and red wires that run from your amp gauge to the bulkead are a fire waiting to happen at that bulkhead connector (bad design). Search MAD bypass or bulkhead bypass here on the site. Your fusible link is connected to the red amp gauge wire. The black runs to the alternator.

Disconnect your battery and disconnect the wires at the amp gauge, and check for continuity across the the amp gauge terminals - no continuity, bad gauge and no power to the car.

All the power runs through the amp gauge.

Your fuse box is under the gauges under your dash.
 
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