Engine bay paint suggestions.

[Zymurgy]

I have my chassis black and Chrysler turquoise from Hirsch. I am curious about what to do with some of the other areas. I plan on power coating several items that can be easily removed: any brackets, air cleaner housing, and pulleys. Any others items recommended for powder?

I will not remove my master and power booster (no one will talk me into this) is there any paint I can brush on, that the brake fluid wont remove immediately, I know with time nothing will hold up to brakes fluid. I have already discovered no rattle can from the hardware store or POR 15 will withstand the brake fluid even for a short time. The self-etching primer from NAPA is not phased by the brake fluid, so I'm hoping there might be something out there, or should I just buy some automotive paint with hardener.

 

[detmatt]

Try this.
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-brake-gray-aerosol-13-oz.html

 

[rexus31]

I use Duplicolor Cast Iron DE1651. Unless your master leaks, I wouldn't worry about it.

Mike, I would consider removing everything form the firewall. You will get a much nicer finished product and won't have any masking lines. Detroit Muscle makes all the foam gaskets for the steering column, master, etc. They used my originals as the template. This is one of the details that takes the restoration to the next level. I always say, the devil is in the details. You mentioned in a previous thread that you don't like to do anything half assed. I say this with all due respect, but it sounds like you are headed in that direction on this phase of the resto. I'm fearful if you don't go all the way you won't end up with the kind of engine bay you are looking for. You already have it 85% tore down. You may as well go all the way which will yield an end result you'll be much happier with. Just food for thought. Have you pulled the inner fenders yet?

Much easier to work on with nothing in the way; better end result too.


Note the new column gasket:


Note new master gasket:

 

[detmatt]

I am so glad I didn't have to take mine to that level. No sense in making it look better under the hood than the original paint is on the rest of the body.

 

[tallhair]

I have my chassis black and Chrysler turquoise from Hirsch. I am curious about what to do with some of the other areas. I plan on power coating several items that can be easily removed: any brackets, air cleaner housing, and pulleys. Any others items recommended for powder?

I will not remove my master and power booster (no one will talk me into this) is there any paint I can brush on, that the brake fluid wont remove immediately, I know with time nothing will hold up to brakes fluid. I have already discovered no rattle can from the hardware store or POR 15 will withstand the brake fluid even for a short time. The self-etching primer from NAPA is not phased by the brake fluid, so I'm hoping there might be something out there, or should I just buy some automotive paint with hardener.

With the level of work on the rest of our awesome car I would do as Rexus suggested but respect your position. One way to paint in there w/o removing everything is to use aluminum foil like you use to wrap food. You can get it around everything you don't want painted really easily and quickly.

Question: Is it a consensus that the Hirsch turquoise is correct for our 68 engines and years leading up to that? More so than say the Mopar HP turquoise spray bombs? I don't have a sprayer so what's the best spray bomb for the turquoise?

 

[bluefury361]

As an option you could drain & flush your brake system and replace the fluid with DOT 5 silicone fluid. It won't have any effect on painted surfaces. Plus will not absorb moisture like std brake fluid and has a higher boiling point.

I use it in everything.

 

[bluefury361]

I have my chassis black and Chrysler turquoise from Hirsch. I am curious about what to do with some of the other areas. I plan on power coating several items that can be easily removed: any brackets, air cleaner housing, and pulleys. Any others items recommended for powder?

I detailed the underhood on Jazebelle without removing the engine, heater case, brake booster and wiper motor. Used a small compressor and a cheap jamb gun to apply the color to the firewall, core support, engine, (hirsch paint), and frame & suspension.

The wheel tubs were removed, stripped and painted satin, (semi gloss), black. I then sprayed the outter surface wth a rubberized undercoating from spray cans.

I did this before painting the exterior of the car so you'll need to do some serious masking to protect your exterior.

 

[tallhair]

Very nice bluefury. the turquoise and red really Pop. What color Red is it?

 

[bluefury361]

Very nice bluefury. the turquoise and red really Pop. What color Red is it?

It's R6, Crimson red. The original color of the car.
Plymouths called it bright red and on a Dodge it was Scorch red. All R6 code and all the same color though.

 

[tallhair]

It's R6, Crimson red. The original color of the car.
Plymouths called it bright red and on a Dodge it was Scorch red. All R6 code and all the same color though.

thanks thought so but I'm don't recall the year of your car. Mine is PP1 68 and I'll be painting the engine turquoise too of course.

 

[bluefury361]

thanks thought so but I'm don't recall the year of your car. Mine is PP1 68 and I'll be painting the engine turquoise too of course.

My car is a 69. The color was carried over from 68 though.

 

[Zymurgy]

Wow thanks everyone for the input. Scott, once again, is pointing out the right way to do it and, damn I know you are right. I see a bench bleed in my future once again.

Anyone have any suggestions in plugging my master to avoid reintroducing air to the master, or is a bench bleed inevitable and not worry about it.

 

[Zymurgy]

With the level of work on the rest of our awesome car I would do as Rexus suggested but respect your position. One way to paint in there w/o removing everything is to use aluminum foil like you use to wrap food. You can get it around everything you don't want painted really easily and quickly.

Question: Is it a consensus that the Hirsch turquoise is correct for our 68 engines and years leading up to that? More so than say the Mopar HP turquoise spray bombs? I don't have a sprayer so what's the best spray bomb for the turquoise?

Hirsch also sells the turquoise in a rattle can too.

 

[rexus31]

Wow thanks everyone for the input. Scott, once again, is pointing out the right way to do it and, damn I know you are right. I see a bench bleed in my future once again.

Anyone have any suggestions in plugging my master to avoid reintroducing air to the master, or is a bench bleed inevitable and not worry about it.

LOL! Sorry Mike, but deep down you know there is only one way to do it. You might be able to find some plumber's caps that are the correct size to cap off the ports.

 

[Zymurgy]

I will go back after lunch and pull tape but the firewall is painted cleared.:yaayy:

 

[rexus31]

I will go back after lunch and pull tape but the firewall is painted cleared.:yaayy:

View attachment 29467

Looking good, Mike!!!!

 

[rexus31]

Did you get new firewall pad fasteners?

 

[tallhair]

Looks great man!

 

[Zymurgy]

Ok it is finally ready for an engine.

 

[tallhair]

This show is really get's good

Nice work Mike