Engine break in help?

[Andrew Douglas]

hello all,

I recently broke in my 383 and ran it for 20 mins at 2200 to 2500 rpms. After I was done I changed the oil and ran it a bit more. After that i changed the oil one more time. Then I cut open both oil filters. The first one was black and had all kinds of assembly lube in it, also the oil was real shiny like it was pearl reduction paint in an oil lik color. The second one was clean and had a oil color look. But still had some shiny pearl reduction coming out. I cut out some pieces of filter and ran a magnet across them. The magnet didn’t Pick up anything.
I’m not sure what I am supposed to be looking for? Is what I found normal? Should I be concerned?
I posted a pic of the filters.
Thanks for your help in advance

 

[stubs300]

hello all,

I’m not sure what I am supposed to be looking for?
Is what I found normal? Should I be concerned?

I'll answer your 3 Q's.
What is it you want to find?
Does it look normal to you?
Do you want to be concerned?
Personally? I think you did a overkill with the 2nd oil change, but that's just me. Stop worrying about it and get out and start enjoying it!

 

[Andrew Douglas]

I should have been more specific. This is my first engine build and break I did myself. Is the shiny glittery oil normal for a new engine? I was pretty paranoid about cam and lifter break in and seating the rings. I just wanted to be thorough. And make sure I didn’t smoke my first engine I built.

 

[GJS]

The lube would still be showing (as an almost pearlescent texture) in the filter after the second change, it's sticky and mildly abrasive stuff. Give it time, I wouldn't rush to rinse all that assembly lube out.

If you're not picking up metal, seeing radical oil pressure, temps, blowby or hearing knocks, you're likely good.

 

[Davea Lux]

Also keep in mind that the rings are in the process of seating themselves to the cylinder wall, this involves some metal transfer via microscopic wear, very fine shiny metal is normal for the first 1000 mi or so. Be concerned if you find large pieces of bearing material in the filter, that indicates a big problem. It does not sound like you have a problem from what you are describing.

Dave

 

[jake]

I also had some metallic look to my oil after break in. I just assumed it was the high zinc in the break-in oil that I used and the assembly lube. I do not see it anymore and the motor has 3000-4000 miles and purrs like a kitten.

 

[65sporty]

Now that the cam is broke in take it out a test drive. Find a road where you can accelerate and decel without bothering to many people. Don't go full throttle, but accelerate from 30 to 60 mph with about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle and then let of and let the engine just decel back down to the 30 mph. Repeat 5 to 10 times. This will help seat the rings. Take it easy for 500 miles and don't let it sit and idle for long periods of time. Congrats on your first rebuild, now enjoy the fruits of your labor. Change the oil again at 500 miles then go to your normal schedule.

 

[66Newyorker]

Make sure you use a high zinc oil like Lucas Classic and Hot Rod or some other oil formulated for a flat lifter engine.

 

[Andrew Douglas]

Thanks for all the reply’s. I’m using comp cams zddp 10w-30 break in oil. With royal purple oil filter.

 

[Big_John]

I should have been more specific. This is my first engine build and break I did myself. Is the shiny glittery oil normal for a new engine? I was pretty paranoid about cam and lifter break in and seating the rings. I just wanted to be thorough. And make sure I didn’t smoke my first engine I built.

Everybody is commenting on ring break in without asking about ring material (moly or ductile iron), cylinder finish or if it was plate honed. We always figured that a moly ring in a cylinder that was plate honed with 400 grit stones would be broken in on the first fire up. An iron ring with a cylinder that was honed with a dingle berry hone is gonna take longer...

But I digress...

If you really wanted to check the ring seal, you could do a leak down test.... But in reality, if everything looks good and it's not making smoke or noise, go out and drive it and have some fun and quit worrying. Any damage from a bad build is already done and putting miles on it won't make much difference.

 

[Andrew Douglas]

I’m using comp cams magnum muscle cam 268/276 duration .464/.464 lift. Moly rings, arp rod and main bolts, flat top pistons, 440 906 heads. Weiand intake 0-6000 rpm. TTI headers. Monster trans built 727. No stall. Built a cruiser

 

[The Goose]

Sounds good to me. At Caterpillar we recommend regular oil sampling. One thing we tell everyone is if you sample a freshly rebuilt engine to please put engine-break-in on the sample as it freaks out the computer with all the break in metal dissolved in the oil. Suspended in the oil might be a better description cause it's not really dissolved. It's normal to have wipeable metals ( it wipes away to a smudge between your fingers) chunks are an issue.

 

[stubs300]

As the old saying goes, don't sweat the small stuff! If it works good, use it! Don't make a mountain outta of molehill! Oh, for cryin out loud, hit your head w/a hammer and just dig what ya got and report any prob's!!!!

 

[cantflip]

If you really wanted to check the ring seal, you could do a leak down test.... But in reality, if everything looks good and it's not making smoke or noise, go out and drive it and have some fun and quit worrying. Any damage from a bad build is already done and putting miles on it won't make much difference.