Engine cleaning - easy does it?

Deke

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So, Esther's engine bay needs to be cleaned up so I could show it properly with the hood open. What can I use that will not further remove any of the paint from the valve covers? You can see there are a coupe of places where it's flaked off over 47 years. I am guessing the firewall is covered in undercoat? I can see where if I clean the air cleaner it'll look better, but not so much the rest.

I've read through some of the other threads on cleaning, but don't want to have to repaint anything, if I can help it. I don't feel comfortable taking it to a self-serve wash and hosing it down as I don't want to disturb or damage any of the wiring, etc. What can I use the try and clean by hand and not make such a big mess?

There is a detail person who I have wash my 2018 Camry; guess I could call him and see what he recommends... I trust him as we works on high-dollar cars locally (Ferraris, Mercedes and a nice '86 BMW 635 CSi).

Thanks for any input, and if someone is local to me in the Pinellas County area who can help, I would be extremely appreciative! Looking to debut her at a local show on November 14th, which is, alas, a judged show. I'd like to present the car as original/preserved, but not looking like this!
 
i use simple green to clean many things. i haven't had any issues with it.
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Simple green is a good product but it can and will eat paint if too strong or left on too long. Ask me how I know. Something like purple power is also rather harsh on finishes or uncoated aluminum.

I recommend using Oil Eater. It's water based and will not hurt paint/rubber/plastic. Warm up your engine. Spray on, let it sit for a while, then a little scrubbing with a soft brush and rinse off.

There's also the engine cleaners in a can. They just tend to be weak and need multiple applications.
 
I am not going to directly answer the question but just say that, FWIW, I were a buyer then I’d rather clean it myself. There is information in the grease/dirt that will forever disappear through cleaning.

Just my two cents. GLWS.
 
I’ve used the rattle can engine cleaner/degreasers for years without a single issue. No paint discoloration, rubber deterioration or electrical problem. The newer foaming type is my preference. These don’t smell as strong and just rinse off.
 
I am not going to directly answer the question but just say that, FWIW, I were a buyer then I’d rather clean it myself. There is information in the grease/dirt that will forever disappear through cleaning.

Just my two cents. GLWS.
I agree, but in a judged show, I don’t want to be embarrassed when I open the hood. If I ask for them to remember the car is original, they may take that into consideration. I’ll clean the air cleaner at least.

I did find some factory markings in the engine bay, though.
 
I don't see an in-between, clean it or leave it. I do not see a way to clean it without disturbing the flaking paint.

Yes some paint is going to come off, you'll be surprised how much stays. Take pictures first, I just don't see to thinking people have on trying to preserve some things.
Personally I'd drive it down to the self-serve car wash spray it down with their degreaser, then switch to the power soap and then rinse.

I wouldn't worry about the wiring, if it is an issue you probably shouldn't be driving the car. I just avoid directly spraying the distributor and air cleaner.

If there was something worth saving power washing it wouldn't harm it, that is my opinion.


Alan
 
I’ve used the rattle can engine cleaner/degreasers for years without a single issue. No paint discoloration, rubber deterioration or electrical problem. The newer foaming type is my preference. These don’t smell as strong and just rinse off.

I agree. GUNK Foamy Engine Cleaner would be my choice for what you want to accomplish.

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Warm up the engine a little (100 degrees) before spraying on and let it sit for 5 to 10 min. Hit any heavy areas with a scrub brush, then hose off.


Jeff
 
I used to have great results with the old Castrol Super Clean, when it was around.

Old paint is going to flake off, but that can be minized with lower water pressure and a "shower" setting on the nozzle, by observation. Diluted Dawn, with a hand sprayer, might work for an easy clean, just as the new "spray and wipe" version for pots/pans might be an option too. Key thing is lots of low-pressure water rather than a sharp spray, to me. Followed by some leaf blower action, possibly?

Once you ger things cleaned and dried, a spray with the Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic spray (water activated) "wax" might help keep things looking nicer, longer? Not sure about heat durability, though, but easy enough to reapply.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
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I am a big proponent of the classic, easy Dawn Soapy Water in a used, cleaned Windex spray bottle, since it is easy, cheap, and cleaned up the dirty 440 I have which has a colossal oil leak and sat for 15 years. The soap does a great job degreasing the engine, and then a brush and a microfiber towel will help with drying the engine and agitating the grease and dust. Just be careful not to scrub too hard with the brush, as it could pick up the paint. But overall, a great and safe method that I fully trust.
77newyorker440
 
View attachment 412805 I don't feel comfortable taking it to a self-serve wash and hosing it down as I don't want to disturb or damage any of the wiring, etc. What can I use the try and clean by hand and not make such a big mess?
I always do mine with a pressure wash at the U-do-it car wash, never have had a problem with anything.
I agree. GUNK Foamy Engine Cleaner would be my choice for what you want to accomplish.
Warm up the engine a little (100 degrees) before spraying on and let it sit for 5 to 10 min. Hit any heavy areas with a scrub brush, then hose off.
Jeff
Just get a can of this and do it at the car wash like I said, you'll regret doing it any other way! Good Luck
 
With the Gunk foam I don’t even need the higher pressure from a wash stall.
 
Many of the high-pressure wands do tend to have "a cloud" of water, if used at "a distance", but the stream is more intense the closer the end of the wand is to "the work". User discretion advised?

CBODY67
 
Cheap insurance for a clean motor, plus hot water helps.
And it keeps any oil or grease off your driveway. The do it yourself stalls suck around here. Maybe a 50% chance they work at a minimum of $2 bucks for 5 mins.
 
I am a big proponent of the classic, easy Dawn Soapy Water in a used, cleaned Windex spray bottle, since it is easy, cheap, and cleaned up the dirty 440 I have which has a colossal oil leak and sat for 15 years. The soap does a great job degreasing the engine, and then a brush and a microfiber towel will help with drying the engine and agitating the grease and dust. Just be careful not to scrub too hard with the brush, as it could pick up the paint. But overall, a great and safe method that I fully trust.
77newyorker440
Thanks. I think this is the route I will take; spray, scrub, wipe off. No getting the driveway dirty and incurring the wrath of the HOA!
 
Might be worth trying S-100 cycle cleaner.Your Harley shop should carry it. Never tried on car engine but it does unbelievable job on my bike engine. I would use the spray bottle not the aerosol can. And you just water rinse
 
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