Engine Mount Removal

live4theking

Old Man with a Hat
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I'm in the process of changing the driver's side engine mount on my 68 NYer. I've got all the bolts out and the motor jacked up. The problem is to the front is the oil pump, too the back is the dip stick, and towards the fender is the steering gear.

How do I get this darn thing out? I plan on changing the passenger side next. I think it should be easier.
 
I haven't done one in a while, but when the bolts are out I thought it would lift up past the exhaust manifold. How high to you have the engine jacked up?
 
Undo the passenger mount too , that way you can jack the engine higher to get some extra clearance.
 
I haven't done one in a while, but when the bolts are out I thought it would lift up past the exhaust manifold. How high to you have the engine jacked up?
An inch or inch and half.

Go higher
I hear ya.

Undo the passenger mount too , that way you can jack the engine higher to get some extra clearance.
I was thinking this might help. I'll let it down tomorrow and take the boys or off the passenger side.
 
If you have a fan shroud, you may have to remove it from the radiator so the fan doesn't hit.
 
If you have a fan shroud, you may have to remove it from the radiator so the fan doesn't hit.
There isn't anything on the front of the engine right now.

And remember that the trans will soon hit the tunnel (probably at the converter housing) and you'll start lifting the car or bending things.
Something I'm going to be watching closely.
 
While you have that driver's side mount out, you might want to consider this. See Post 7 (me).
strong engine mounts 1969 c body 440

Unless I'm stupid and you have a spool-type mount. In that case, ignore me! :D
Thanks for sharing that. It's an interesting and easy mod.
I took the passenger side out tonight, but I'm still having issues getting the driver side out. There just seems to be too much stuff crammed into that area.
On my first NYer I replaced the passenger side twice and never did the driver side. Both mounts are still intact at 52 years old... I'll mess with it some more tomorrow night. :BangHead:
 
I'm sure you already know that the driver's side is the "important" side, what with engine torque trying to rip it apart and all that. Passenger side has it easy, spending most of its life in compression.

If you notice in my pics, the mount was "Made In Korea", and I'm quite sure it's 25 years old. Chinesium started a long time ago, before we actually realized it. I had already planed this mod before I took the mount out (which was functioning just fine), so I was quite pleased to be making the mount totally bulletproof from 440 TNT torque.
 
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Well, I got the driver side mount out last night and the new on in. It required some fiddling around to get everything lined up, but honestly it wasn't too bad. I had to pry the motor over a little bit to get it in and out.

When I went to put the passenger side in 3 out of the four holes lined up with ease, but the one on the back side - no way no how. I scratched my head and messed with it for sometime before the problem dawned on me. The stud that secures the mount to the bracket is too long. The one molded in the mount. So, if you're doing mounts you might want to check the length of the stud. the stud on the new one is about 1/4" longer than the old one. It didn't seem to matter on the driver side, but it is a no go on the passenger side.
EM-2250__ra_p.jpg
 
Well, I cut a little bit off the stud tonight and attempted to install the mount. No go. It seems as if the mount holes are off a little bit in relation to the stud.

I didn't think of this till just now, but I may try to loosen the big nut up and see one there is any play in the hole that i can adjust it a little bit. All cleaned up now so maybe Saturday if i dare to brave the cold.

I'm sure glad the driver side went in easily after all the trouble getting it out.
 
Ya sometimes in a case like this you have to keep everything a little loose and get it all started then snug them up. Can be a challenge to reach each I know
 
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