engine removal 101 questions for the newbie - try not to die

Engine, Transmission & Driveline

  1. saylor

    saylor Senior Member

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    o wise and venerable forum!

    it is time to pull the motor + transmission out of this car. - 68 fury 440 / 727 / AC.

    the only motor ive ever pulled was out of an 85 CRX, so that doesn't even count. its half a motor, it sat sideways, involved pulling the left front wheel off and lifting the body up and over, the entire procedure involved nothing but 10mm wrenches.....I know that is not this.

    so I'm pretty green on how to go about this on some real steel.

    heres where I'm at:

    ive undone all the small crap -
    up on top:
    fuel lines undone
    carb out lift plate installed
    all vacuum lines undone (carb, dist, brakes, crankcase vent hose, etc.)
    wiring undone (ALT, dist, AC)
    radiator + shroud removed, upper/lower hoses pulled
    AC hoses to core/evap under dash undone
    carb/kickdown linkage removed


    underneath:
    shifter linkage removed
    kickdown linkage removed
    speedo cable undone
    to/from cooling lines undonw
    rear xmission support thru crossmember bolt loosened

    still to do:
    manifold/exhaust pipe flanges
    motor mounts
    u joint/ propeller shaft
    scribe and remove hood



    trying not to die:
    what else is there to undo before trying to pull?
    how does the ujoint go together? is there a keeper or something I cant see yet?
    whats gonna fall on me and crush me when I least expect it?
    FSM says undo crossmember - the one with the torsion bars? yo no comprendo.
    does the starter have to come off?


    I have to go get an impact wrench, those manifold flange bolts aint gonna go quietly...

    thanks for the help and advice forum!

    - saylor
     
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  2. 72Fury

    72Fury Senior Member

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    Do yourself a favor and drain all of the oil out of the engine & trans. Take a disposable glove and put it over the tail shaft & zip tie it. You can take the driveshaft off or leave it, but for reinstall it will be easier to have it off.
     
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  3. traintech55

    traintech55 Senior Member

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    Looks like you have the majority of the work done, so here is a step by step that should cover everything.
    1. Drain all fluids from engine and transmission.
    2. Remove front exhaust crossover pipe completely.
    3. Remove driveshaft, (four small bolts on differential yoke), reinstall retainers on yoke after removal and wrap tape around U joint so as not to lose a cap.
    4. Remove trans cross member.
    5. Position lifting device to engine.
    6. Remove motor mount to frame bolts.
    7. Triple check that everything is disconnected.
    8. Start to remove engine, this is the time you could use as many hands as possible. You will be lifting approximately 800 lbs so DO NOT GET ANY BODY PARTS IN THE WAY IN CASE SOMETHING GIVES WAY. Be very careful as the engine gets to the top as the load can shift and take out your windshield, (don't ask how I know this). I like to use a one piece crane, as the multi piece ones get real rickety with all that weight on them.
     
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  4. 1970cat

    1970cat Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    what are you using to pull it?
    sometimes it is easier to separate the motor and tranny before pulling them.
     
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  5. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    It would be a good idea to block up or put a lifting device under the transmission prior to removing the cross member so that the motor mounts do not get tweaked or broken. A previously noted, if you do not need to remove the transmission, leave it in place. The engine is a lot easier to remove than the whole engine/transmission assembly. Do not forget the wiring to the starter.

    Dave
     
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  6. LocuMob

    LocuMob Fluid Technician with a hat FCBO Gold Member

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    I've done both, and if I have a garage I'll pull them separately. Out in the "field" I'll pull as a unit, can't always keep the car up safely to pull the trans from underneath.
     
  7. saylor

    saylor Senior Member

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    #3 - do this as opposed to the front u joint? or do both thi sand the front u joint ?

    #4 - are we talking about the cross bar where the torsion bar ends are/go into?

    noted on draining all fluids - good call.
    noted on removing starter wiring - good call.


    as far as a lift mechanism I have not bought anything yet, but expect it will be the typical HFT one. I was going to swap out all the fasteners with grade 8 stuff from lowesdepot.

    I'm hoping to pull motor + transmission in one fell swoop.

    what else?

    good info post thanks forum!
     
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  8. LocuMob

    LocuMob Fluid Technician with a hat FCBO Gold Member

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    #3 take off the straps on the rear and the yoke will slide out of the tailshaft with the driveshaft.

    #4 the trans crossmember bolts to the frame where the torsion bars mount, should be an illustration of it in the FSM.

    My hoist came from Northern Tool, 2 ton foldable. Works fine, flexes at full extension under heavy load, but hasn't let me down.

    Just be careful, go slow and watch to make sure nothing swings out of control. The trans tail may swing up once it clears the firewall and get wires, or something else. Be careful when it comes off/out the motor mounts, it might pop up. And watch your fingers. It's easy as long as you are careful. I don't have any help anymore, but when I did, it was always appreciated.
     
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  9. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    There is a short cross member that bolts in between the back ends of each torsion bar that should be removed so that the transmission tail shaft does not get hung up on it when you pull the engine/transmission assembly. If you live in the rust belt, the bolts are sometimes rusted to the point that they will twist off which will leave you with a fun job drilling them out later. It is possible to stick a floor jack under the transmission with a block of wood on the transmission pan. The floor jack is on wheels so that the transmission can be moved forward as the engine is lifted enough for the tail shaft to clear the rear cross member without damage. It is a real pain though to try and re-install the engine/transmission assembly using this method.

    Dave
     
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  10. 3C's & a D?

    3C's & a D? Well-Known Member

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    I noticed you said you are using a "carb out lift plate", this should be ok if you are doing the engine only, a relatively straight up affair (pun intended). If doing engine and transmission an engine balancer is your friend. I am not a fan of those plates and wouldn't use one. In my opinion those four quarter inch stud holes are for attaching the carb. not lifting the entire engine.
     
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  11. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    If you are taking the engine and trans out in one piece, you want to consider a load leveler rather than the lift plate on the manifold. To get everything out, you have to tilt the engine to clear the radiator support in the front as the trans is not going to clear the firewall.
    image_8058.jpg
     
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  12. saylor

    saylor Senior Member

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    ah I found it in the manual where the rear ujoint R & R is 16-5 if anyone is reading along at home
     
  13. saylor

    saylor Senior Member

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    roger roger on the load leveler. . bolt that to the corners of the intake I guess huh ?

    see, this is exactly why I posted this :)

    I didn't know the plate was not enough by itself.

    beautimus
     
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2017
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  14. LocuMob

    LocuMob Fluid Technician with a hat FCBO Gold Member

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    I got one of those with my hoist, I have yet to use it. I've always used a chain when taking out anything.
     
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  15. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    I just used a chain sling for many years and it was fine. The leveler does make it easier though and I think it's safer... I feel that everything is a little more "controlled" as it is lifted and tipped.
     
  16. LocuMob

    LocuMob Fluid Technician with a hat FCBO Gold Member

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    I know the main reason I haven't used it, is I've left the hood on when removing or installing my engine(s). I can't use it with the space I (don't) have. Need to make a fiberglass hood!
     
  17. CBODY67

    CBODY67 Senior Member

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    The absolute slickest way to remove the engine/trans is by putting the car on a body lift, then supporting the trans rear housing with "a fixture" of your own design (in lumber). Remove the sub-frame-to-body bolts, then raise the body off of the supported engine/trans/sub-frame. Then with the necessary clearance, move the powertrain items out from under the body. Lower lift to a more normal level. Reverse to re-install. One of our guys did this on the Superbird we helped restore. NO issues with scratching the paint on the fresh paint in the engine compartment. NO socket-marked bolt heads (after the repaint) either. It all goes together from the bottom at the assembly plant. You'll probably need to back off the torsion bar adjustment. Look in the service manual for "Sub-frame Replace".

    But, "in the field", such lifts don't appear without some orchestration. The "load leveler" is the only way to get the engine/trans out in one piece, as it'll allow the engine/trans to be tilted almost completely vertically from their normal horizontal orientation. A front and rear intake manifold bolt pair usually works well, lh front, rh rear.

    Have a helper/friend with you when you do this procedure! It'll be much better and easier! Keep a fully-charged cell phone nearby, too.

    Please keep us posted on your progress.

    CBODY67
     
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  18. traintech55

    traintech55 Senior Member

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    Removing the engine and transmission assembly on the "K" frame as in an, "A", "B", or "E" body car is way different than removing the "Stub Frame" on a "C" body car.
     
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  19. LocuMob

    LocuMob Fluid Technician with a hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Don't we all wish it was that easy! Thanks to that difference I've learned panel alignment.
     
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  20. saylor

    saylor Senior Member

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    20171105_080356.jpg this is the crossmember they say remove yes? this can be unbolted and removed and the torsion bars do not have to be touched in any way and I wont die?

    20171105_075814.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2017
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