Engine Side HVAC Housing Removal?

[Trace 300 Hurst]

Now that I have the evap box (and fenderwell and fan out), I'm wanting to remove the totally loose engine side housing. I haven't worked at it much yet, as I still have to remove wires and vac hoses hanging to it, but it's big, and there seems to be an engine in the way. And the fender brace, of course.

Anyone remove this without pulling the motor? Maybe just remove the passenger side valve cover? Is it doable before I start? I really want (must) get the condensate leak fixed when it all goes back together.

 

[Polara_500]

Hey, you already showed some versatility with your dremel........... just sayin.

 

[david hill]

Remove rt. tire,remove the inner fender, vac. delay valve, blower mtr, fender brace and I believe 1 or 2 attaching nuts. Comes out over rt. f brake caliper and rotor. Tie back wire harness and vac. hoses. First rotate housing behind valve cover up to clear. Once you clear rotate flat over valve cover, allow blower mtr. opening to angle down in direction of brake caliper and remove. PM me if you have questions.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

Remove rt. tire,remove the inner fender, fender brace and I believe 1 or 2 attaching nuts. Comes out over rt. f brake caliper and rotor.

All that stuff is removed, David (except for the fender brace, yet). The housing is just hanging there by the wire looms, like a loose tooth in a kid's mouth. The existing Mopar Perf valve covers (which will soon be replaced with excellent new AMD repro covers) might be causing some clearance issues, but do you know if it should come out without removing an OEM valve cover, please?

Thank you very much for confirming that it will come out over the right side control arm area. That gives me something to work towards.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

Hey, you already showed some versatility with your dremel........... just sayin.

Now THAT got a solid chuckle out of me!

 

[david hill]

All that stuff is removed, David (except for the fender brace, yet). The housing is just hanging there by the wire looms, like a loose tooth in a kid's mouth. The existing Mopar Perf valve covers (which will soon be replaced with excellent new AMD repro covers) might be causing some clearance issues, but do you know if it should come out without removing an OEM valve cover, please?

Thank you very much for confirming that it will come out over the right side control arm area. That gives me something to work towards.

Yes the valve cover can get in the way as it is taller than OEM. You may have to remove it. OEM valve covers cause no problems w/ removal.

 

[Samplingman]

Why are you removing the blower cover? Heater core and condenser are removed from inside the car.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

Yes the valve cover can get in the way as it is taller than OEM. You may have to remove it. OEM valve covers cause no problems w/ removal.

Thank you again for the knowledgeable advice.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

Why are you removing the blower cover? Heater core and condenser are removed from inside the car.

HVAC box is out. But for the engine side housing: To clean out 48 years of crud, to install a new firewall gasket, to remove, clean and rebuild the Recirc/Fresh Air housing, which is also known as the Mouse Access Opening.

Soup to nuts on this system.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

I don't recall it being an issue (to install), wheel liner was out, braces were in (did not remove).
I'm pretty sure I inserted it through the wheel well, so removing it should be the same.
This was on a 69 with a 440

I did remove a non AC one with a 318 through the wheel well, it just seamed like the logical way to do it, you are already in there to unbolt the fan section.


Alan

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

I don't recall it being an issue (to install), wheel liner was out, braces were in (did not remove).
I'm pretty sure I inserted it through the wheel well, so removing it should be the same.
This was on a 69 with a 440

I did remove a non AC one with a 318 through the wheel well, it just seamed like the logical way to do it, you are already in there to unbolt the fan section.


Alan

That’s useful info, thanks. Now I know it should slide out without much fuss.

I do think the aftermarket valve cover is not my friend (tall, squareish, and with ribs) but that’s easily solved, too, since I’m changing back to stockers anyway. I’ll just move that pleasant task up the schedule!

 

[MrMoparCHP]

Pop that vacuum switch off, should help.


Alan

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

Pop that vacuum switch off, should help.


Alan

As will unsnarling it from the wires, hoses, etc.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

Just stopped working to say Thank You David Hill and MrMopar.

Inner and upper braces, and then the wiring harnesses out of the way, and it came out as per your "up, rotate, tilt" instructions. It was dicey, as I thought the tranny stick and/or the headers were gonna kill the deal, but "up, rotate, tilt" did it. It helped greatly to know that it was possible, thanks to your experience on this.

Now....how the hell do I get it back in once it's cleaned and re-gasketed?

Back to the garage for recirc housing remove and redo.

Did I mention mouse turds? Yes, I think I did.

 

[david hill]

Install is the is reinstall in the reverse order as described. Glue the gasket to firewall to the housing. Leave the blower mtr. gasket off. Work slow and deliberately and minimize gasket scuffing. If you remove wire harness,as seen in your photo, above the engine by the voltage regulator and tie it back it will be easier to install. Good luck. Dave

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

Actually, I was kidding about getting it back in there, and I have the Detroit Muscle gasket instructions. The firewall gasket is one to let fully, fully dry before working the housing back in there....minimizing gasket disruption as you mentioned. Fact is, the factory gasket had several locations where it was inside the housing, not against the firewall (you can see them in my slightly blurry pic). I really don't want that after all this work. I want cool, dry, recirculated air!

Yes, getting the harness tied back out of the way will help when going uphill. Probably remove VR, too.

My blower gasket is still in serviceable condition, but stuck (nicely) to the motor housing. Why do you say not to use it (meaning a new one, I assume). Is it a "squish" issue with a new gasket?

Thanks again.

 

[david hill]

Gaskets deteriorate over time and crack and harden. Since you have one on hand, why not use it.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

Gaskets deteriorate over time and crack and harden. Since you have one on hand, why not use it.

Because in Post #15 above, you said "Don't use it." I can certainly remove the old and install the new Detroit gasket. Perhaps you meant something in regards to the engine housing gasket (which test-fit perfectly, BTW).

Recirc housing is done. I won't be attaching (and plugging) the white tracer "fresh air" vac pot hose, because(1) it's really balky going back to Recirc when bench testing with a Mighty Vac, and because (2) these old cars leak enough fresh air going down the road around the windows. I want ONLY Recirc cooling and heating ever. Cooling 97% of the time, actually.

 

[david hill]

My bad on the blower mtr. Gasket. Should have said install w/ blower mtr. Later. If you have a recirculation hose from housing to blower mtr. be sure to install it. It keeps the temp. down on the blower mtr. Check for binding at recirc. Door. If the linkage is ok then the rubber diaphragm is stiff or has a small hole in it. Best bet is to replace it now. They are hard to find

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

And I think I'm gonna take about 1/4th inch off of three or four HVAC box studs on the driver's side. That was where I had the clearance issue when removing it, and those studs are PLENTY long when the nuts are run down. There's a half-inch (maybe 5/8 ths) of discolored, aged stud that poked out beyond the nuts when it was assembled.

Just sayin', for future readers working this task.