Evaporative Emissions 2001 Sebring 2.7

[1970FuryConv]

2001 Sebring, 62,000 miles. Evaporative emissions warning light came on in the dash. Codes are for small and large leak. Tried replacing gas cap, even with the new Mopar gas cap, but didn't help. Have 2001 Sebring factory shop manual. Read the section on the system involved, but it really doesn't tell how the system works. Does anyone know what sensor detects the leaks, where that sensor is located, and how that sensor works? (When on Sebring forum and no one knew). Have visually looked over the car and found no obvious problems. Really don't want to spend several hundred dollars for a smoke analyzer test. Any help from the veteran mechanics here is greatly appreciated!

 

[Davea Lux]

Go back by the passenger side rear wheel and look underneath up towards the pump mount on the gas tank. There will be several hoses coming out. Be sure that they are all attached. There is usually a canister box mounted behind the passenger side wheel although the location may vary. The box is held in place by some plastic cones on the unit that fit into a metal bracket. Those plastic cones were famous for breaking off if the canister box was high centered. This creates a leak in the closed system. I removed the broken cone and filled the hole with RTV on my daughter.s 2004 about 6 years ago and it is still holding. If the canister is intact, the is probably a problem with a cracked hose someplace and the only thing you really can do is start checking hoses. The sensors on this system almost never fail.

Dave

 

[CBODY67]

The evap emissions self-check is for the system to put a slight vacuum on the system to check the integrity of the lines, connections, and such. Plus the gas cap's capability to contain any related emissions into the atmosphere, at the fuel filler location.

The system, as I found out on my 2005 LeSabre, will not work in colder weather. PLUS, if the battery ever goes dead or is unhooked, all of the sensors have to "report in" as ready for duty, so to speak. As the car runs and drives, most will do this and will be "ready" on the scan tool display of such. BUT TWO will have to complete some "drive cycles" before they are "ready". One is the evap system sensor. The other one is the catalyst monitoring sensor. Both of these "not ready" at the same time can result in a "FAILED" state inspection test, although no Check Engine light is on. So then delving into "drive cycles", it can be daunting to find a place to do them. Specified acceleration rates to 55mph, maintain for "a time spec", then coast down to a stop, etc. I found these things via a Google search, specific to my car.

Also, for the evap emissions readiness, a certain amount of gas has to be in the tank.

My first time to deal with these things . . .

CBODY67

 

[Davea Lux]

If you have an OCD code reader, try resetting the code in case cold weather has fooled the system.

Dave

 

[65sporty]

Start by checking the hoses to the purge valve, plastic with rubber connections. Like Dave said you could have a split in a hose.