Exhaust leak, my broken bolt

Early C Bodies - The Slab Side Years

  1. GOLDMYN

    GOLDMYN Well-Known Member

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    Hi, well, I finally got the ambition to tackle an exhaust leak in my 68 newyorker. soaked them all in Koil , I told my wife before heading out. This job NEVER ends up good. Sure enough, #6 never gave a warning, just twisted off. I'm going to attempt the repair by drilling out the remained. question I have. Which right angle drill would be best to purchase. I appreciate your comments. DSC05252.JPG DSC05256.JPG
     
  2. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    Get one that reverses and use a left hand drill. It might walk out.
     
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  3. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    If this is the only time you may use it, buy a Harbor Fright for $30. 3/8 in. Variable Speed Reversible Close Quarters Drill

    There are better ones... and ones that may last longer etc., but this should get the job done and it's $30. Find a coupon and it's even cheaper.

    These should work, although be very careful with the extractor. Bust one of those off and it gets serious. I usually give them a quick try and if it doesn't walk right out, I go back to drilling.


    Screw Extractor and Left-Hand Drill Bit Combo Set, 10 Pc.
     
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  4. GOLDMYN

    GOLDMYN Well-Known Member

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    thank-you
     
  5. PH27L7

    PH27L7 Member

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    That will be very difficult to get the hole centered for the extractor. I've had great success with this tool for the same job but it's pricey, it has a drill guide that centers the hole perfectly. It has to have a little bit of the stud sticking out to work, it looks like you have some threads left to screw in to. As an alternative you could make your own drill guide by center drilling a bolt & then cutting off a length. Just some thoughts, would beat out removing head.
    Snap-on Store
     
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  6. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    You need to be very careful that you get the hole drilled centered and straight. If it is drilled crooked, the extractor will usually break or the other thing that happens is the treads get damaged by the drill bit. I usually pull the head to change studs, but try to drill first if you are comfortable doing that. If you drill a small hole thru the stud first, you can use the wand on the spray can of penetrating oil to force oil to the back side of the stud and then drill the appropriate sized hole for the extractor. The left hand drill bits are a good idea as mentioned. Oil to the back side of the stud will make removing it easier.

    Dave
     
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  7. PH27L7

    PH27L7 Member

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    Little off topic but your engine appears to be running quite rich based on your exhaust port.
     
  8. Trace 300 Hurst

    Trace 300 Hurst Professional Tinkerer FCBO Gold Member

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    There are a number of vids on YouTube showing removal of broken-off bolts. I haven't watched any of these, I just grabbed 'em for ya. There are probably a zillion others.

    Removing broken bolts









     
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  9. 65sporty

    65sporty Old Man with a Hat

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    I have those, use them quite a bit. I find they work best when the broken bolt is recessed a bit.
     
  10. jct

    jct Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Keep soaking it in penetrating oil
     
  11. 65sporty

    65sporty Old Man with a Hat

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    I don't want to be a downer, but when I have had a stud or bolt break while removing it. I usually can't get it to come out with a extractor. It's rusted so much it won't budge, most of the time I drill them all the way out.
     
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  12. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    ^This^

    I never have much, if any luck with an extractor either. Occasionally, they will work, but you really can't crank on them, especially at that size. A broken extractor is a nightmare.
     
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  13. 65sporty

    65sporty Old Man with a Hat

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    I have broken both extractors and drill bits, the best way I have found to get them out is with a 1/8 inch carbide bit and grinder, it's little bigger then a dental drill, but sounds just like it. We have both straight and 90 degree grinders at work.
     
  14. GOLDMYN

    GOLDMYN Well-Known Member

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    Hey everyone, Thanks for the great comments. Looks like taking the head off is the safest.
     
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  15. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    If you are going to pull the head, this would be an excellent time to replace all of the studs. These studs cold work over time from the repeated heating and cooling and get very brittle, and they also stretch, that was probably what caused your exhaust leak. Few things are more annoying that replacing the one damaged stud and bolting everything back together and having another one break. Any good auto machine shop can remove and replace the old studs and it is not terribly expensive.

    Dave
     
  16. bluefury361

    bluefury361 Old Man with a Hat

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    Welding a bolt to the broken stud might work. You can get a wrench on it that way. And the heat cycle may help loosen things.
     
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  17. GOLDMYN

    GOLDMYN Well-Known Member

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    no threads, here's a pix of the stud and manifold replacement DSC05260.JPG DSC05258.JPG
     
  18. GOLDMYN

    GOLDMYN Well-Known Member

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    DSC05257.JPG


    Year one
     
  19. GOLDMYN

    GOLDMYN Well-Known Member

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    some good examples with the part out of the car with plenty of access
     
  20. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Nice clean looking manifold. By the looks of the stud that broke you should be replacing them all.

    Dave