Separate names with a comma.
that is all.
Try one of the Aviation Grade Silicone Gaskets from (The Real Gasket Company of Tennessee) and you'll have nothing to be crabby about. Google them, find the gasket you're looking for in their listings and have your Visa ready, Jer
So far, so good with these on my previously ultra leaky big block.
I doubt they suck, otherwise, you would not be leaking oil. So, they are not sucking, or you would have no leaks....
What is the opposite of suck?
or BWAAARK in Fred's world.
I bought a copy of Mopar Action yesterday; there's an article in it about this very subject. Interesting. First suggestion? Buy some aftermarket covers that won't leak. Second: straighten out your originals. Article said if they're leaking, it's not the gasket's fault.
Done & done. Let's see how these work.
I like that they say they're reusable.
Automotive Archives - Silicone Gaskets - Real Gaskets Tennessee
"Buy aftermarket valve covers that won't leak" is what I tried about 16 years ago with a 383 I had that was constantly leaking. It helped, but didn't stop it completely. I wish I had the TN gaskets then, would have saved me a lot of wasted time, money, and frustration.
Follow their torque specs
Those work great on the Mopar Performance wrinkle valve covers I use, but the cork works better (for me) with a stock valve cover.
Moroso Perm-Align Valve Cover Gaskets 93055 I used these Morso rubber gaskets with a light coat of gasket Silicone 5 years ago and I haven’t had a leak since.
I should mention I used the Morso gaskets with the factory valve covers.
had what i thought was a rocker cover gasket leak , change them over n over again , cork , rubber , silicone , rubber coated , ect..... , even changed rocker covers . and still oil everywhere . what a ball buster it was being . then a bud of mine ask about my pcv valve in that cover . changed it and no more leak . it seems that pressure from the crank case was blowing up oil up the dip stick tube and the fan was spraying it all over the side of the engine . i also put a seal on the dip stick end . wa'la , no more oil everywhere on the cover or side of the engine or compartment as well . this engine made alot of oil pressure 70-80 psi on the run .
I will check the dipstick. But I doubt it. My pcv valve is new as well. My oil pan is almost as leaky as my valve covers. I torqued the bolts, a week later all bolts loose as the gasket shrinks or crushes. Torqued again, loose just three days later. The leaks are getting smaller but geez how many times. I can't get to the timing cover bolts unless I take the water pump off. At least the fuel pump is sealed.
old gaskets don't tighten up . you need a thread sealant (rtv) to get them to stay tork'd , its seems a never ending cycle . just spotted , the passenger rocker cover has a leak . at least the driverside is not , yet lol ! when this motor was in my dart , you couldn't see the leaks , you could smell the oil burning off the exhaust manifolds , it did get some altering from time to time , eddy rpm was the end for intake changes . now in my p/u with headers , plenty of room to see the leaks . this engine has been in three vehicles so far . and still goes far it !
Do you have a 400ci motor? My prior C-body had one and I fought the oil seepage from the day one. I won't have another 400 as it is a common problem thanks to the excessive heat from the exhaust manifolds running adjacent to the valve covers. Or so I remember reading. People have gotten their 400ci motors to behave, but most had quite a battle to get there. My cars have always been unrestored originals with factory design/defects.
My 360ci has been an absolute dream! No drips, no leaks, no seeps.