Finally got my dream car : 2-dr 300!

CitronPresse

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A little positive today: the VCs were easily removed, no stuck bolt! I was just unlucky the last time I guess!

I have 2 new questions:

1) I have to find new gaskets obviously, I was told that it's better to buy reinforced fiber gaskets rather than the "old school" cork gaskets...first, is it right or the cork ones are just as good and "leakproof"?

All those I find in reinforced fiber are for the HP engine (High Performance), the only difference I see is the absence of the little "tabs" that come out of the valve cover

Old-school cork gaskets for regular engine:
Pw64gmM.jpg


"New tech" fiber gaskets for HP engine:
K1OuEoi.jpg


I can't find fiber gaskets for the regular engine (with the "tabs"), I imagine that if I put gaskets without "tabs" it will leak?
I'm stuck with cork gaskets, unless someone has a good place to find fiber with "tabs"?
I tell myself that it must exist because the old ones on my car have the "tabs" and are not made of cork, they seem like a kind of blue silicone.

2) After removing the old gasket from the VC and after having scraped the cylinder head and the VC to clean them, if I put the latter "dry" on the cylinder head I notice that it is not perfectly straight, it is slightly "twisted" and doesn't rest evenly on the cylinder head, I don't know if I can clearly explain my point I'm not very good in English sorry :confused:
I suspect this is not normal, should I buy new valvecovers or the gasket will do its job anyway?

Thanks in advance!! :thankyou: :D
 

77newyorker440

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I am pretty sure this is what I got: More Information for FEL-PRO VS50145R
They have worked pretty well so far, but about every month or so I have to retighten the bolts on the valve cover or they start to leak. I suspect this is because I did not put loctite on the threads, but I will when I put the new valve covers on. Even if the gasket does not have the tabs, you should be alright. For your second part, it is really up to you. I doubt that your valve covers are twisted enough to leak, so they should make a seal.
Hope this helps,
77newyorker440
 

HWYCRZR

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Key things I have found. Make sure your covers are flat and ha not been over torqued. If they have turn them upside down and with a smaller ballpien hammer or body hammer with a block of wood make sure the sealing surface is perfectly flat. Follow the torque specs and do not over tighten. After a few heat cool cycles check the torque again.
I ended up using the Tennessee Silicone gaskets following their instructions for a totally clean surface and torque. So far since last summer no more leaks. To be fair my cork ones worked ok, but had a very small seep. That was only just enough for a sheen to collect dust.
Information on two different gaskets I was using before switching to the Tennessee one’s.
What did you do to your C-body today....
 
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3C's & a D?

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X2 on the straightening of the valve covers. I've also heard good things about the silicone gaskets. I'm not familiar with the fiber reinforced one's. I use the cork, but I coat them two or three times with high tack spray gasket to seal them.
 
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