Finding parts for converted Lean Burn

[Fast Eddie B]

My 77 T&C was clearly converted. All the way back to points! Even has a simple 2 pole ballast resistor vs. 4 pole.

I can find plugs and wires. Those are universal. I can assume - for the $8 - that the distributor cap listed will fit because the original dizzy was presumably refitted not replaced. That is a guess, but one I am willing to take.

The points are a different matter. Can’t find them. Not retail anyway. There are hi energy pick ups for non-lean burn electronic, but nothing listed as plain old school points that I could find. I would convert to electronic pick up, but not sure which one will work because I am not sure what is there to go along with it.

Seems like it would be ‘easy’ to just replace the whole thing, but not looking forward to removing literally everything in the front of the engine to get at it. For the few hundred miles a a year, I would just like to replace the points!

Any thoughts? Just leave the points and replace all else?

 

[Davea Lux]

I am not sure where you went looking for points, but pretty much all modern mopar V-8 engines used the same ones. When somebody replaced the lean burn system, they most likely retro fitted an older distributor. All of the mopar V-8 engines except the 400 were fitted with points prior to 1972. If you happen to have a 400 in your car, then it probably has a '71 or older 383 distributor. You can go to pretty much any auto parts and still find a listing for points for '72 or older mopar V-8s that will work with your current setup. If you want to get really ambitious, you can remove the distributor and cross reference the distributor with the parts catalogue and find the points that way, but since the points are universal, there is no reason to bother with that.

Dave

 

[Snotty]

I can understand dumping the lean-burn, by why go to a points system? Electronic systems are easy to find.

 

[traintech55]

Convert it over to the Chrysler electronic setup and be done with it forever.

 

[Turboomni]

The points are a different matter. Can’t find them. Not retail anyway. There are hi energy pick ups for non-lean burn electronic, but nothing listed as plain old school points that I could find.

Nothing wrong with points and any decent auto parts store willhave them or get them in a few days. You can also speak to the distributor guru and dealer halifaxhops here on this forum. I have bought new in box OEM points sets.

 

[413]

I love points, very reliable. And for the few hundred miles per year he said he will drive it is vey cost effective to keep them.

Why do you want to replace them? Look at them and see how much is left. Use a magnifying glass if you need to. Make sure th cam is lubed, but not too much that it will throw it off.

If you look for points for a 1977 Chrysler you won’t find any. Look for 1971 and older, as said before.

 

[Fast Eddie B]

I love points, very reliable. And for the few hundred miles per year he said he will drive it is vey cost effective to keep them.

Why do you want to replace them? Look at them and see how much is left. Use a magnifying glass if you need to. Make sure th cam is lubed, but not too much that it will throw it off.

All great feedback. It is a 440, so will earlier 440 points work?

The reason to replace is just to know that that won’t be a point of failure. If everything is new ( and I’ll bet what’s there is old) I think I’ll get many years of reliability.

They might be fine, but the cap is pretty worn. The wires are tired. I haven’t pulled a plug but I’m sure they are burnt. Too easy to just replace. If I can get the right ones. I’d go electronic but afraid of both tearing apart to get at it and then reproblem solving what the kluged together already. I’ve got lots of cars on points and I’ve even swapped some for electronic. This seems like a candidate to stay points.

 

[Davea Lux]

440 engines with single point distributors all use the same points.

Dave

 

[Turboomni]

I use points on my 440. I would also have a little kit with you. In mine I have and extra set of points and condenser,a feeler gauge,an extra Ballast resistor, and a flat blade screw driver and although overkill maybe my old working ignition coil.
Never needed it yet!

 

[CBODY67]

As mentioned, don't get hung-up on the model year of the car vs. the model year of the distributor. I know that all auto parts catalogs are now dependent upon menus, which the person behind the counter is prompted to ask questions from, so giving them an older model year keeps them happy (i.e., 1971).

As for spark plugs, no real difference in the heat ranges used with the electronic and points systems. SAME electronic energy in both systems, just a different method of "switching" things to make the sparks happen. So using the '77 spec can work. Might consider platinum or iridium for longevity, considering how those rear plugs might be to get to. Same .035" plug gap.

BE SURE to put the CAM LUBE on the points rubbing block!!! Essential to long life of the points (which used to be about 15K miles, back then, from my experiences). All point sets used to come with a small vial of it, but later ones did not. Not sure if they do now or not.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[71NewYorkMan]

Another option is a Pertronix Ignitor system.

Like most people, though, I like the OEM Chrysler system which preceded the Lean Burn. On my '78 NYer 400, I am currently installing: A Cardone distributor, Standard LX101 module, and home made harness made from various connectors in my inventory. This will replace the points distributor the previous owner installed to replace the LeanBurn system. The points system installed was a hack job, with all the LeanBurn wiring left in place.

Important point to consider- The LeanBurn carbs did not have the distributor vacuum ports necessary to operate the vacuum advance on points or electronic distributors. Did your carb get changed or modified to work with the advance? In my case, someone exchanged a '76 version carb that has the ports (though it was never finished with proper choke and vacuum connections). After I finish the job, I will have an engine with all factory type Electronic Ignition circa '76.

 

[Fast Eddie B]

Another option is a Pertronix Ignitor system.

Like most people, though, I like the OEM Chrysler system which preceded the Lean Burn. On my '78 NYer 400, I am currently installing: A Cardone distributor, Standard LX101 module, and home made harness made from various connectors in my inventory. This will replace the points distributor the previous owner installed to replace the LeanBurn system. The points system installed was a hack job, with all the LeanBurn wiring left in place.

Important point to consider- The LeanBurn carbs did not have the distributor vacuum ports necessary to operate the vacuum advance on points or electronic distributors. Did your carb get changed or modified to work with the advance? In my case, someone exchanged a '76 version carb that has the ports (though it was never finished with proper choke and vacuum connections). After I finish the job, I will have an engine with all factory type Electronic Ignition circa '76.

All of my old lean burn wiring and computers are there in the engine bay. I have been fearing trying to get back to electronic so sticking with points is just fine with me.

On the carb front, it is labelled as a ‘remanufactured thermoquad’ I think. Has the vac advance all set up.

I’m going to hit up advanced auto for a set of points and a coil and get that done this weekend.

Last question from a dummy - are all ballast resistors the same? The car is supposed to have a quad blade but only has a dual blade. Can any dual blade resistor work?

 

[Fast Eddie B]

I use points on my 440. I would also have a little kit with you. In mine I have and extra set of points and condenser,a feeler gauge,an extra Ballast resistor, and a flat blade screw driver and although overkill maybe my old working ignition coil.
Never needed it yet!

A fine idea for a kit, but my strategy has been to just replace everything and let it ride for 5 yrs. I don’t drive many of my cars very much so i trust that starting from new covers me for a while.

 

[halifaxhops]

Have a picture of the distributor with the cap on and off? I can tell you what you need. Points are fine to run usually for up to 10,000 miles. Glad you dumped the lean burn, it sucks to get parts for. If you can get them from the local parts store bet standard or blue streak. Spring pressure sucks on the rest of them. On the ballast get a Chrysler single ballast if possible. Different makes have different values.

 

[71NewYorkMan]

I believe 0.5 is the standard Mopar resistor value?