Fitment & performance Trial on MOP753A Radiator on 1966 Chrysler Newport

Gerald Morris

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Greetings Cold Case & C Body Moparians!

Having purchased their MOP753A radiator from Cold Case explicitly as a First Five Customer, I now present for all and sundry my report on the fitment and performance of this radiator on Mathilda, our 1966 Chrysler Newport 2 door hard top coupe, running a 383 2-bbl engine with a 727 Torqueflite automatic transmission, no air conditioning or power brakes, but power steering.

Background:

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I've driven Tilly for 2 previous summers in Tucson, AZ with fairly stable thermal behavior. Normal running temperature in peak heat and traffic conditions gets to ~ 210 F tops, and cools down to ~ 195 F as soon as I run in some open road for over a minute. This past winter I began noticing a slow increase in running temperature up to 220F, which has been mostly alleviated by thinning down from the ~60% antifreeze mixture for the winter to a summer mix at about 30%. Be this as it may, the old radiator, a 22 inch Mopar #2524984 made in 1965 with numerous patched leaks and much stop leak holding them, was overdue for
wQ0KowEK_Hfj2EZV9ehmMhqX9weS_fgphKrLd2VxELIwuiplBynFe0OblD9JkecdZsVXamcuUApvRef12NhTt8g0Euv-Q9W_kh-XRr73484-6HiuFREpTdRiCuixmi52jR8DNTLzUWtpn89dupZiGPA9ckhuruMoCI_hjLA7ZhVz9psFWw2VlEWdRDdVJwKWL_Zda4Lgrl64xI-4d3k46LjNHUmleR7LVzB7nvt-Vcr87RdvNp7JaClG-ah9pWTdpAV89tMvsOhuGIuRv97EjL07LWNzNMzIVHGBEKFQ4oZZHgJzsWzH926-IesLs3c3l_B5yojt_xyor0Y4p67uVrC2JuapFSGbLRCKZTr4tH9Mx2o43vCY28MBBuwJYwRzXbnjBhmTuFHtuMIfNM0u4pPfJRjFA6lYxMmKgtKhxFFuGDDGSUnNUEsLzwwi0dre4OUgPywVytxopFJob7Om5fBeJ4E_JBtgDXOGlaNuZcuESmLKcYzVfIc8IPUsvq1ndtS5d6ODSHWudZTxIHVr0ztEss78kipxn9hC6ZLz7xyvp8hq0l-znhitSeFM6SOvGqcvsteOR7eJHwvkfGxE7af8W1lrGeiSUGr_7RI=w1286-h723-no

replacement. I plan to keep this much praised original for my cradle, which hosts a 1977 400 which we hope to eventually rebuild to replace the 383 still powering our beloved Mathilda, God-willing.

Having researched modern aluminum radiators, I opted for a 2 row large tubed sort to replace the *4984. Noting much dissatisfaction with Chinese made Champion, we decided a U.S.A. made product simply HAD to be obtained. There really are only two companies which vend a 22 inch product close to the characteristics of the *4984 for prices we can afford: Engineered Cooling Products and Cold Case. ECP ran out of their 22 inch big block model just as my first paychecks started coming in, which left Cold Case as the only vendor with a 2 row product available for my purchasing range. Seeing their First Five trial plan, I contacted them, and was speedily accommodated. Cold Case does WELL in customer service as far as getting the product shipped promptly for a good price! This counts for much in selecting vendors.

1. Initial fitment check:

While the core of the MOP753a at 16" height is 2.5" less than the measurable core height of the *4984 and its cousins, the 1.25" diameter tubes volumetrically compensate for the decreased core height. I would PREFER that Cold Case START MAKING 22 INCH RADIATORS TO MATCH THE EXACT DIMENSIONS OF THE MOPAR 22 INCH RADIATORS, but I KNEW what I was going to buy from Cold Case, and am happy to try it out. The AVAILABLE cross section to the core from the radiator support actually comes VERY close to the original, despite the lower height, as can be seen in the picture below.
pkWYxYNE4FZKJSNpXRKlw1_lZtr3-OM8ofHtwFGOt2nrsMH-jSrLRH0wjG39hmf-qaCsRdeu6_E1j6Tp_C-wnFP_ILRgiHs6Q9FaCjKvg1FTygj6d8Qn81gUNjMaSQJvaZReatkzPMGiPriOJe9bpUSKbrxSpdyVbbrHic9Fjzpn2-Y-7T4dk4yMHI1fpdPq5AhDShnZbYLMejpl_zmCvf2QOY7mTFBOmJgMa0BSnZtIqhTx0_jMXX9YSjEqYgdDJbgYRqfrSdyHv5lwwlthB8vyURJjD5LouYjyXQqs9bNMNjJK4QGSuL3d6bcWh8QZGd3ewzcjTzWVNjnyLxsHiV6WEEMHWmOJjZm7HlwQrBHPvoSSgVJLCTWVnB_uXBHmnzUzJ0DE-4DI8Vsvnf72Pg7_YdseUg1ReN7K8xKtAfrppo_XoEI62oAeBT4qcEFAyRqI6bEPLKvteKO4T9L6aWOOKRmn_kVpKZUVKz1OEx2skwFkm8l3rBXtX-TAiMVov7TBznQAcciVQpMymv_QJW5GuUalA83l1a9AKsC_ODrIM9OrylkneF4aXqaeE2rRR4t54-gOCkG8Q7i2EE8smr7HDXdirLzPNCKUtrc=w1286-h723-no


Were this not the case, I would have shipped it back in the box. As things are, the whole core of this radiator gets the wind so to speak, which is well. I actually poured all but about 6 oz of the coolant I drained from the old radiator and hoses back into the new one also! Those big tubes amount to something good folks. The lower profile of the top of the radiator is rather nice also.

NOT that everything was perfectly swell in installing this shiny new cooler, as we will see in its place....

Cold Case welded the transmission cooler line connectors into the bottom nicely, which took my old connectors quite well. THAT was my first actual test. Had this failed, I would have

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packed it up for return. Note the little bit of yellow Teflon tape showing where I threaded the connector in. Use the yellow tape if there is any chance of contact with hydrocarbon solvents. This is meant for methane and propane, but resists heavier stuff such as mineral oil better than the plain white PTFE does.

ONE annoyance. The original connectors are 10 inches center to center. Cold Case has theirs at 12 inches. Not a huge discrepancy, but carefully bending the line nearest the oil filter over that additional inch and threading on the connector was a trifle problematic. I'm glad my tube bending skills in situ are still good, especially considering an upcoming brake hose replacement later this week. Anyway, for C bodies, Cold Case should try to match the dimensions on the 22 inch x 18.5 ( 19" OEM spec ?) of the mid 1960s Mopar radiators a little better. Ultimately, it comes to whether you have enough demand to justify the accommodation, but you'll get MORE DEMAND IF YOU ACCOMMODATE MORE! Such are the paradoxes of capitalist markets....

Still, overall, the tranny cooler lines threaded up fine, and miss my 18 inch fan, so all is just ducky there.

2. Installation Fitment: Satisfied that the tranny cooler lines would connect, and that the cross section provided by the radiator support would be filled entirely by the new radiator core, I measured carefully to insure that the 1/4-20 attachment bolts would fit the flange and permit me to bolt on to the support. The top holes are perfectly spaced, exactly where they shopuld be, but the bottom slots are actually over 2 inches too far down on the flange for a mid-60s C-body! Look:
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Center to center, the vertical distance between the attachment bolts is ~13.5 inches. Now look at the Cold Case radiator when I bolted and C-clamped the old and new radiator back to back to mark where to drill after measuring how much further down the notches for the lower bolts are on their radiator:
SMDp9qAee4szwfmodc_nE1hEgE7wIo4pZXejFcRVLPlW73JHVvDqR0XWFC0K9HaRJ7hgsb-WfdFfU3g9PPIbnMFPkfN-wfRcI-yyG4LcEbm_UB9oIDb6tGYJ_GX5NZzT8IYSrnZ6_l1JBLM7yQwIzD0q4wMPJsewaqXSTMiDKbJsgipRO0SD_1G3Kco1ZyFfGnnG7Du-tc42abKCbjYveHbIgX5F4d3KR1kau2NLDmPoql2GiQ-tVOBKFqsBSoZtmFgJglUVgCufnAHqePaJafHcbCWIHW0ku4tl0amIntp3q57Hy4T-SN0XEsp0fHUHrnL5iHGiOjgbdOLEl3vphG6HxBwwhV7U-7TNX7tnkkeBZ02LXEHqJ2uL0ywuAfK5g247HMoHu6xAn2Br9mA4BgITTSVOCBnm6s9hkLvNzc4Vlfsfqh-j4hLn3rXEm8zz7iIUWn_9Tf70DohcKZ4QYc4KoDlcJCTmNSEm3YQTJlyy2lbMH6nX6eDXwmzyUdbIYdsR7jOcefxBe6iVMNHVqc08iEgDBeBB2AKyYb0-iNn7pvG7PimfIh4sjTq7JB5K-A9sFvdUmf2Nn-611EmWAIc1bIGp0JhreT8KYG0=w407-h723-no
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You can see clearly how I traced in with a Sharpie the old radiator's notch onto the new one's flange. Part of the new notch at the bottom of the Cold Case flange can be seen here too. This and the preceding pic show how exactly I bolted and clamped the flanges together before drilling a 9/32" hole top dead center of my notch marks on both sides. Only with this alteration could I then bolt the Cold Case radiator in, hook everything up and take it for a test run.

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3. Initial Performance: I took Mathilda out to the nearest highway in rush hour traffic with the ambient temperature at the nearby airport showing 102 F. After about 20 minutes of mean running, I noted that Tilly stayed around 195 F until I got her home, where just as with my old radiator, she crept up to 210 F when I put her in reverse to park. so I can confidently say right now that this MOP753A performs AS WELL AS my 53 yr old Mopar 2524984 radiator, which is GOOD. I've left numerous other variables such as lack of shroud, fixed fan, possible malformed aluminum pump housing, head gaskets, the stars and such exactly as they were before the test, as its the RADIATOR I'm evaluating.

4. Recommendations: 1.) Build a limited line of C-body specific 22 inch radiators with the taller core. This will increase the volume of fluid being cooled in your radiator, which might enhance your product's cooling just enough to compel these conservative C-body owners to embrace your product.

2. If/when you do a run of "MOP753Bs" lets say, BE DAMNED SURE TO BETTER MATCH THE BOLT NOTCHES AND THE TRANNY LINE DIMENSIONS! You did "Good" with what you sold me, but there is room to make this "Excellent."

3. I LOVE the flanges for modern shrouds on the engine side of your radiator, but study how the old Mopar shrouds attached more closely and see if you can run a row of bolt holes down the sides of your radiators which will allow the old shrouds to bolt on directly. I now have to get creative with my shroud, though not until I get it painted. I have a NICE old STEEL shroud from a ~65 Imperial which has brackets just a little different from what a Newport needs. I'll doubtless make something with angle metal do the job....

I'll make a final performance report in a week or month from now, but for FITMENT, I think I've told you all I can. If possible, obtain a few old mid-60s radiators to model yours on more closely, for C-bodies anyway.

Respectfully Yours,

Gerald E. Morris

P.S. I'll register for my Warranty later this evening. NOW for a longer TEST DRIVE!
 
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Ccas

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Wow, that's a pretty thorough review! We are already discussing the trans line spacing, the height difference and the fan shroud bracket changes.

Since we already did all of this for the 26" C-body model, I think regardless of the popularity, it kind of makes sense to finish the job and make all the C-body applications correct. :)
 

Gerald Morris

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Wow, that's a pretty thorough review! We are already discussing the trans line spacing, the height difference and the fan shroud bracket changes.

Since we already did all of this for the 26" C-body model, I think regardless of the popularity, it kind of makes sense to finish the job and make all the C-body applications correct. :)

Good show then! Yes, DO combine the 18 inch core of the MOP751A with the tanks of the MOP753A and you WILL have a REAL WINNER for mid-60s C-body MoPars! I chose the 753A because it was the CLOSEST of your product line to my needs, but I expect a bit of added volume and surface area will only IMPROVE performance!

I can measure my old fan shroud brackets for you if it will help you design new methods for attaching the original shrouds to your radiators. I KNOW some of the other conservative hold-outs on this forum would LOVE to see somebody in modern industry tackle this exact problem. I can also measure how the nuts were placed on my 2524984 radiator. Mind you, THOSE DON'T fit the shroud brackets I obtained, but it still would be useful data I think.
 

Gerald Morris

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Performance Update: I took Tilly through about 11 miles of rush hour, bumper to bumper traffic with the ambient temperature around 102 F this afternoon. Temperature NEVER exceeded 205 F and as soon as I could run unstopped for 60 seconds, it would drop back to ~ 190 F, which seems to be where my thermostat lets her run.

You make an EXCELLENT radiator! I also poured in an additional half liter of coolant this morning, so volumetrically, your MOP753A holds slightly MORE fluid than the aged Mopar 2524984 it replaced, despite its core height being 2.5 inches greater. I attribute this modest addition to the inevitable burping of air pockets after draining and refilling a cooling system.
 

Gerald Morris

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Thanks Gerald!
My pleasure Sir! Any chance I get to enlarge the practical Mopar Lore for this century, I happily take. Later this month, I hope to devise a good scheme for attaching my shroud. or A shroud suited to this setup.
 

Ccas

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P I also poured in an additional half liter of coolant this morning, so volumetrically, your MOP753A holds slightly MORE fluid than the aged Mopar 2524984 it replaced, despite its core height being 2.5 inches greater.
This is one of the best features of a large 2 row radiator. Because there are less tubes but more surface area, there is also more space for more fluid. The additional 2" on a new bigger version could make another 5 degree difference.

Thanks for your help on this. I was a little concerned with this situation as I believe that 22" Mopar unit was undersized from the beginning. Without a shroud, that's even scarier. With a shroud, you should come back down under 195 in any traffic conditions. Add the taller unit and I would expect 190 all the time.
 

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This is one of the best features of a large 2 row radiator. Because there are less tubes but more surface area, there is also more space for more fluid. The additional 2" on a new bigger version could make another 5 degree difference.

Thanks for your help on this. I was a little concerned with this situation as I believe that 22" Mopar unit was undersized from the beginning. Without a shroud, that's even scarier. With a shroud, you should come back down under 195 in any traffic conditions. Add the taller unit and I would expect 190 all the time.
So a slightly larger 22" unit is in the works? Having a 26" radiator with 4" hiding behind the core support isn't ideal, and I only have other 26" units to replace it with. Definitely would like a drop in unit that is full size.
 
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Gerald Morris

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This is one of the best features of a large 2 row radiator. Because there are less tubes but more surface area, there is also more space for more fluid. The additional 2" on a new bigger version could make another 5 degree difference.

Thanks for your help on this. I was a little concerned with this situation as I believe that 22" Mopar unit was undersized from the beginning. Without a shroud, that's even scarier. With a shroud, you should come back down under 195 in any traffic conditions. Add the taller unit and I would expect 190 all the time.

My pleasure to be of service! I now need to contrive a good method for attaching the shroud I obtained last summer. Your shroud flange actually gets in the way of the old style brackets, BUT I think I see how I can easily attach the shroud to the flange if I eliminate the brackets, using a flat piece of suitably drilled metal on each side, then attaching to the flange at the corners. I will revisit this thread when I get this together.

Tilly did quite well the summer of 2016 with naught but the straight 6 blade 18" steel fan she came with in city traffic and the old radiator. I now suspect I should also upgrade from a Hayden 2707 fan clutch to the 2747 or possibly the 2797 with my 18" 7 blade fan. With a heavier torque from the clutch and a good fitting shroud, I'm sure the air draw then really will keep her cool in nigh all circumstances. I note as soon as I get a little breeze into her snout that Tilly cools down to 190 very quickly.

I may want to upgrade to the 18" core radiator later too, budget permitting. Be sure I'll again happily test your product with rigorous documentation.
 

cantflip

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Wow, that's a pretty thorough review! We are already discussing the trans line spacing, the height difference and the fan shroud bracket changes.

Since we already did all of this for the 26" C-body model, I think regardless of the popularity, it kind of makes sense to finish the job and make all the C-body applications correct. :)
Would that include a solution for my Thermal vacuum switch? Perhaps an upper hose adapter, since it belongs in the top tank? Don't count on me as a near future customer, I'm well stocked for used radiators and re-core hopefuls. I also have a scratch and dent competitor's model I got for very cheap.

I will continue to watch this, just because I'm really keen on any true problem solver... I'd like to see you folks become the future "plug and play" C body solution. I also dislike a non-stock appearance on MY car (74 Imperial)... so I'd paint at least the top tank and sides to help it blend in when the shroud is on. A improvement mod, with a stock look wouldn't hurt my feelings one bit.
 

65Fury440

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Nice write up Gerald, many thanks!
Cold Case, if you can cut those original styled slots in the sides to hold the cage nuts, and get the height increase,I will order my radiator.
It shouldn't be hard.
Would you be able to update this thread when that happens?
Thanks!
cage_nut_install.jpg
RadiatirBkts02.jpg
 

Gerald Morris

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Would that include a solution for my Thermal vacuum switch? Perhaps an upper hose adapter, since it belongs in the top tank? Don't count on me as a near future customer, I'm well stocked for used radiators and re-core hopefuls. I also have a scratch and dent competitor's model I got for very cheap.

I will continue to watch this, just because I'm really keen on any true problem solver... I'd like to see you folks become the future "plug and play" C body solution. I also dislike a non-stock appearance on MY car (74 Imperial)... so I'd paint at least the top tank and sides to help it blend in when the shroud is on. A improvement mod, with a stock look wouldn't hurt my feelings one bit.

I can dig why a man of such impeccable good taste WOULD want to paint an Al radiator, but for my purposes I like the shiny bare metal, which does radiate heat somewhat more efficiently than a black (heat absorbing) surface does.

I like the idea of a column of possible cage nuts or such, rather like a shallow channel strut perhaps. I'll see what I can do for Mathilda with my '65 Imperial shroud.....
 

cantflip

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I can dig why a man of such impeccable good taste WOULD want to paint an Al radiator, but for my purposes I like the shiny bare metal, which does radiate heat somewhat more efficiently than a black (heat absorbing) surface does.

I like the idea of a column of possible cage nuts or such, rather like a shallow channel strut perhaps. I'll see what I can do for Mathilda with my '65 Imperial shroud.....
Thank you, I would not paint the tubes and fins... but a little camouflage would help me sleep better.
 

Ccas

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So a slightly larger 22" unit is in the works? Having a 26" radiator with 4" hiding behind the core support isn't ideal, and I only have other 26" units to replace it with. Definitely would like a drop in unit that is full size.
Yes, we're going to work on that but it's going to be difficult to do so without an original. Otherwise it's going to be difficult to decide whether the 2" should be added to the top or the bottom. A mistake would through off all the hole spacing for the firewall.

Agree, those with 22" radiator supports generally don't want to convert to 26" radiators just to run cool. Provided you don't drop in some monster motor into a 22" core support, there should be no need to use a 26" radiator.
 

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Agree, those with 22" radiator supports generally don't want to convert to 26" radiators just to run cool. Provided you don't drop in some monster motor into a 22" core support, there should be no need to use a 26" radiator.
Yeah, it was in the car when I bought it.
 

65Fury440

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Yes, we're going to work on that but it's going to be difficult to do so without an original. Otherwise it's going to be difficult to decide whether the 2" should be added to the top or the bottom. A mistake would through off all the hole spacing for the firewall.
Let's do this right, I would be happy to give you the spacing from the top bolt holes to the top of the tank, and to the top of the core support.
Any further specs you would like as well.
I will then buy the first one and test fit it for you.
Thanks for being so available, not many vendors do that!
 

Ccas

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Nice write up Gerald, many thanks!
Cold Case, if you can cut those original styled slots in the sides to hold the cage nuts, and get the height increase,I will order my radiator.
It shouldn't be hard.
Would you be able to update this thread when that happens?
Thanks!
View attachment 184754 View attachment 184755
Unfortunately, this would be outside of our comfort zone. Adding stamped slotted side caps would be cost prohibitive for us and then for you as the consumer. We are primarily a performance radiator company. Although we like to make our radiators have that original look and we want owners to be able to re-use their original shrouds when possible, our feeling is that if most owners want to keep that level of originality, they will also want to keep the correct stamped tanks, the correct stamped part numbers and probably the correct copper/brass tanks.

Our solution is to provide a great resto-mod solution. High performance, OEM looks at first glance and an easy way to re-use the OEM shroud. To accomplish that with this 22" unit, we'll have to put small brackets on the shroud side of the radiator so the shroud can be mounted in an alternative method.
 

LocuMob

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Let's do this right, I would be happy to give you the spacing from the top bolt holes to the top of the tank, and to the top of the core support.
Any further specs you would like as well.
I will then buy the first one and test fit it for you.
Thanks for being so available, not many vendors do that!
I knew someone would step up. Simple measurements should do the trick. I would buy as well.
 

Ccas

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Let's do this right, I would be happy to give you the spacing from the top bolt holes to the top of the tank, and to the top of the core support.
Any further specs you would like as well.
I will then buy the first one and test fit it for you.
Thanks for being so available, not many vendors do that!
We'd really like to have a legit 22" C-body radiator and a shroud. That's really the only way we can confidently make them correctly.

We dont' need to ruin or keep the parts. We'd just need to 'borrow' them for a while! :)
 
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