As far as fitting the 22" unit in your car, that's not an issue and the trans lines should match up pretty close. Our radiator is deeper than yours so the trans lines have to get pushed back a bit. That might require putting an extra 's' bend to create some space.does a MOP753A will fit in my 1965 300 838 2 barrels? I have no problem to cut/fit from my 22'' to 26'' just want to know if it will be hard to fit trans line?
This topic is pretty old. In re-reading, I don't see anything mentioned about a taller core. I'm also not sure 65polara ever supplied us with that sample. Members have been using both our 22" and 26" rads for the C-body. We just haven't figured out the 22" oem shroud fitment yet.
Good show then! Yes, DO combine the 18 inch core of the MOP751A with the tanks of the MOP753A and you WILL have a REAL WINNER for mid-60s C-body MoPars! I chose the 753A because it was the CLOSEST of your product line to my needs, but I expect a bit of added volume and surface area will only IMPROVE performance!
I can measure my old fan shroud brackets for you if it will help you design new methods for attaching the original shrouds to your radiators. I KNOW some of the other conservative hold-outs on this forum would LOVE to see somebody in modern industry tackle this exact problem. I can also measure how the nuts were placed on my 2524984 radiator. Mind you, THOSE DON'T fit the shroud brackets I obtained, but it still would be useful data I think.
About half way through post #1 Gerald mentions the core is about 2 1/2 " shorter than original, and on post #3 makes a suggestion that sounds pretty easy to incorporate. My 65 big block car came from the factory with a 22" radiator, and now has a warmed over engine. The extra capacity sure wouldn't hurt in the Florida heat.
My radiator now is from another company and has 2- 1" rows. The temps creep up when it is hot out.
If you are ok with the inlet being in a different position, I think that's the way to go. I really think all you need is that extra volume. We'll all be anxious to hear the results.Thanks Gerald for the explanation, the MOP751K (without trans cooler) sounds like it will be what I'm going to pursue.
My car has an 8 blade clutch fan and shroud with the Hayden 2797 I swap on and off for and an electric 16" Spal puller fan. Surprisingly, there is no difference I can see in idle cooling airflow. The issue my car has is coming from a fast cruise to a stoplight. It will be at 180 right on the stat until the point it has to stop and idle. Then the temp creeps up to 190 or so. Then you hit another stop light, now its up to 200 or over. Then on a steady light throttle run of say about 4-5 miles, the temp comes down to 190.
Hopefully the extra 25% capacity of the MOP751K will do the trick.
@Ccas Do you have any suggestions before I order? I can call your guys, just like to keep the board informed.
Thanks again Gerald for such an in-depth review.