Flat towing a C body

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Looking for wisdom in flat towing a C body (all 4 tires on the road). My concerns are possible damage to the transmission and power steering…
 
Why would you want too? Put her a uhaul trailer.. if NEED to flat tow, Take the drive shaft out, to avoid tranny damage, turn the key to the ON position so the steering wheel turns freely and disconnect the battery so you don’t drain it..

now that’s out of the way! Tell us why you need or want to flat tow her??
 
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Why would you want too? Out her a uhaul trailer.. if NEED to flat tow, Take the drive shaft out, to avoid tranny damage, turn the key to the ON position so the steering wheel turns freely and disconnect the battery so you don’t drain it..

now that’s out of the way! Tell us why you need or what to flat tow her??
Going on an RV trip and want to bring Shamu.
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Hate to say it, but you probably should put a set of those tow bars mounts on the front bumper and use a proper tow bar.
Sucks to have to remove the driveshaft for that type of fun.
 
Uhaul USE to sell / rent front bumper hitches, not sure any more. I’ve used them in the past.. Call your local RV center, I would think they’d have a lead on them cause I’ve seen, recently, Large RV’s flat tow vehicles on the Hwy.. just me 2 cents
 
The problem with towing an automatic car is no lubrication to the trans while the car isn't running. OK for a few miles, but more than that and you start ruining things.

The solution has always been to remove the driveshaft or to find some tow hubs (do they still make these?) where you remove the rear wheels and bolt them in place and they free wheel. Guys used to use them with race cars years ago.
 
I am thinking of getting an enclosed trailer that I can use to take my 65 Mustang to the track and for other vehicles, or pull Farty, a 2015 Ford Fiesta, that’s already towable.
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A C body is way to large and heavy to flat tow safely. Don't even think about it!!! A trailer, either open or enclosed is your safest bet.
Back when I was young and dumb I flat towed cars lighter than C body's for long distances ..... White knuckle all the way. Will NEVER do that again. :steering:
 
Uhaul USE to sell / rent front bumper hitches, not sure any more. I’ve used them in the past..

U-Haul quit renting towbars in the early 1980s. When cars had actual chrome bumpers, you had an attaching point for that tow bar.

I bought a tow bar for a '65 Dodge PU I found in Denver, many years ago. Unbolted the bumper, bolted the tow bar up to the bumper mount horns, and had it sussed. Well, until about 120 miles out of Denver, when the right rear axle bearing melted down and the entire right axle shaft, including the drum and backing plate, left the truck at 70 mph and shot out into the Colorado prairie! So, I spent about 20 minutes scavenging the parts I needed off that truck and left her be. Had maybe $300 in it, but unbolted a lot of parts in that 20 minutes! Plus, I had taken some bits off the truck before I even left Denver, so I was that much ahead.

I always wandered what the CSP officer thought after coming up on the truck. On the shoulder, partially stripped, and the RR axle and wheel off into the grasslands somewhere...
 
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The problem with towing an automatic car is no lubrication to the trans while the car isn't running. OK for a few miles, but more than that and you start ruining things.
Not to mention all the other crazy things that can happen to your car while it’s free wheeling behind you, namely aggressive or distracted drivers that think they could slip in between that car and the RV.

I don’t know about you, but I like to relax on a vacation road trip and with that setup I’d be a nervous wreck.
 
Had no problems flat towing mine south years ago (car wise). As mentioned, disconnect the driveshaft, unlock the steering wheel, and unhook the battery. I removed the grill as to not mark it up with the tow bar. Borrowed an old tow bar from a buddy.

One piece of advise, don’t go cheap on magnetic brake lights. Used some harbor freight specials, magnets not very strong, and moved around the trunk. One ended up flying off at one point.

We ventured at night so not much traffic to contend with. Had no issues doing 75 down the freeway. Car actually did great.

Truck on the other hand was not as happy. Had a clogged up radiator so was overheating. Made it to GA from MI. Had to unhook and drive the car rest of way to FL. If the radiator hadn’t of clogged up truck would have been fine….

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aggressive or distracted drivers that think they could slip in between that car and the RV.

I've had people try to do that between my trailer with a car on it and the tow vehicle. One woman actually blew the horn and flipped off the Barracuda I was towing.
 
You need to conceder braking also. A 4000 lb car is like a torpedo in hard braking. will likely turn the tow vehicle around if not perfectly straight. Even if using a trailer you will need brakes on at least one axle, best on both.
 
I really don't have to explain myself, and you should be able to think about why this is stupid, but since you asked.
I take you don't know any RV'ers that pull toads and know how much of a PITA it is just dealing with a FWD vehicle let alone a RWD car that you now have to deal with a driveshaft? I'm here to vacation and RV, not dick around with a driveshaft on a classic car!
I wonder what his classic car insurance will say if something bad happens to said vehicle being towed and not being driven? Would they even allow that? You're just asking to screw yourself if something happens to the car!
You do what you want because people do stupid things like this, but I sure as hell wouldn't do it, even if you paid me 100 times what my cars worth! Why do you think your insurance rates are so high as they are to begin with?
It needs to be either a 4WD on all 4's, which is a "flat tow" and not trailered, or a FWD on a tow dolly!

You're entitled to your opinion, so is he. I comend him on the effort.
 
I really don't have to explain myself, and you should be able to think about why this is stupid, but since you asked.
I take you don't know any RV'ers that pull toads and know how much of a PITA it is just dealing with a FWD vehicle let alone a RWD car that you now have to deal with a driveshaft? I'm here to vacation and RV, not dick around with a driveshaft on a classic car!
I wonder what his classic car insurance will say if something bad happens to said vehicle being towed and not being driven? Would they even allow that? You're just asking to screw yourself if something happens to the car!
You do what you want because people do stupid things like this, but I sure as hell wouldn't do it, even if you paid me 100 times what my cars worth! Why do you think your insurance rates are so high as they are to begin with?
It needs to be either a 4WD on all 4's, which is a "flat tow" and not trailered, or a FWD on a tow dolly!
I guess I need to explain it to you. The question was "why is it so stupid that he wants to take a C-body with him?". Travelling by RV should only have a 4x4 or econobox along for the ride? He asked a question and received a few answers. If you will note, I did say to get a trailer. Maybe you missed that part.
 
Personally, I've never understood why someone would flat tow. Other than not having to deal with a trailer when parked I see no benefit of flat towing, and quite a few down sides. I say get a trailer and load her up.
 
Maybe the nuts & bolts of this whole conversation is what does the fine print in your policy say about it? It doesn't give a answer you say, well then, call your agent and see what they have to say about it?
I think the only thing the policy would allow is doing this to go to a car show, and even then I'm sure they have a bunch of restrictions.
BTW, I'd much rather trailer it then flat tow it, I'm sure insurance would say the same!!
 
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