Freeze plug removal issue

Engine, Transmission & Driveline

  1. Drew-Pritchett

    Drew-Pritchett Member

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    hey guys on my 64 300k with 413 front driverside freeze plug started to leak so I got a new plug. I attempted to remove the leaky one and it just crumbled and my screw driver went right through it!(I couldn't get a socket or pipe to punch it out due to the motor mount in the way).

    Any suggestions on cleaning this crap up for the expansion plug install( expansion plug is a temp fix until I pull the motor, I've had success with them in the past when installed properly)
    As always thanks for a the help!
     
  2. Drew-Pritchett

    Drew-Pritchett Member

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    This is gross, I know. ‍♂️

    Screenshot_20200920-074552_Gallery.jpg
     
  3. mopar440

    mopar440 Active Member

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    Oofta...If it must be temp, I'd pull it all out with pliers, remove thermostat, clamp off hoses, and run water into thermostat hole to flush it out. Need to get that rust out. THEN perform a normal chemical flush

    Or just gamble, and put in a temporary, but that's a heck of a gamble:)
     
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  4. 70bigblockdodge

    70bigblockdodge Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Grip and rip with some long nose pliers, then pry the ring out.
     
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  5. Drew-Pritchett

    Drew-Pritchett Member

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    Yeah, that was gonna be my next question. Can I just run a water hose through the radiator with the plug out and "flush" the system? Is there any issues with that?

    And the reason its a temp fix is because im about to move to another state and im going to need to be able to drive this thing up on my trailer.
     
  6. Drew-Pritchett

    Drew-Pritchett Member

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    Yeah, that's my next step. Guess im worried about remnants of the old plug falling into the motor.
     
  7. mopar440

    mopar440 Active Member

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    That's why I recommend clamping off hoses, you want the water to run just into the block. And maybe use a magnet in there too
     
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  8. Drew-Pritchett

    Drew-Pritchett Member

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    Gotcha, so that would be the heater hoses and radiator hoses?
     
  9. mopar440

    mopar440 Active Member

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    Both, the idea is to flush out just the block, it's gonna be nasty.. you could make some simple plugs out of wood too, just don't want that stuff getting into the heater core, radiator etc
     
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  10. Chrome58

    Chrome58 Active Member

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    If it's only to get up and down of the trailer, you do not need to fix it now.
    Engines can run without coolant for a few minutes (but no more), so that would not be a problem.
     
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  11. Drew-Pritchett

    Drew-Pritchett Member

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    Good to know, thanks. Still scary to start it with a gapping hole in the block
     
  12. jct

    jct Senior Member

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    As long as it's not spraying oil everywhere
     
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  13. mopar440

    mopar440 Active Member

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    This is true, however, leaving it open, speeds up the rust process
     
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  14. Gerald Morris

    Gerald Morris Senior Member

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    FIX IT! I've had to do expansion plugs on both of my '66 C bodies. They're really quite EASY bro. Get several decent quality steel wire wheel brushes, and maybe a sanding drum, all of these the sort you can chuck into a decent drill motor.

    Get the rusted old steel plug OUT! ALL of it! Use a flat head screw driver, pair of channel-locks, long-nosed pliers, hammer and chisel, et al to first remove as much of that mostly rust(ed) remainder, then use the sanding drum and steel wire brushes to make the surface of that expansion plug hole nice, shiny and smooth.

    I use a 1.5" shop vac on these holes, combined with an air compressor, my fingers, a drain snake and/or fish tape, in short, anything I can to break loose the mineral deposits in the water jacket around the expansion hole, for as far as I can reach. You might be AMAZED with HOW MUCH CRAP can accumulate in the bottom of that cooling jacket after 55+ years of running water solutions around that hot cast iron block to cool it. Be warned!

    NOW, resort to Chemical Warfare. You can cop a 1.5" rubber plug to temporarily plug that hole up while you use whatever witch's brew you favor to give your 413 an enema. Choose whats best for the sort of water most likely to have been in the engine, and the sorts of deposits you've observed. Plug the hole, invoke the Elder Gods, run your enema, drain. Repeat until clear and clean.

    Get a DEEP BRASS PLUG, some Indian Head shellac,a large deep socket or big brass drift (better!) and tap that plug in. If this is a difficult position one, like, behind the motor mount, go buy an expandable copper plug. Otherwise, use brass.

    Swab the rim of your expansion plug hole with a moderate layer of the shellac. This stuff WORKS, but you must give it a day to dry after getting the plug in. Tap the new brass socket, or use a wrench to expand the copper plug, making your plug snug in the hole. You should now coat around the edge of the plug, just covering the plug and where it meets the iron block with the shellac.
    Take a day long break.

    Fill your engine block with distilled water, start the engine and run it up to temperature. If you got that plug in straight and used the shellac wisely, your expansion plug should be good for at least another half century. Just pray the cylinders last. You might use your fingertips to feel around up on one or 2 of those while cleaning, but I digress. Brass plugs last longer, and work in better. Resort to the copper expansion plugs ONLY if rubber won't do and you CAN'T drive a brass plug in straight. You can always replace copper plugs later when/if the motor is removed. That makes things easier, when expansion plugs make trouble anyhow....
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2020
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  15. Drew-Pritchett

    Drew-Pritchett Member

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    THANKS MAN. I really appreciate that. Seriously.
     
  16. Gerald Morris

    Gerald Morris Senior Member

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    Give a shout if anything isn't clear to you or you have problems. For the most part, the expansion plugs are pretty easy on these engines, but....
     
  17. Drew-Pritchett

    Drew-Pritchett Member

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    Can you send a link or photo of the expansion plugs you're referring to? I have some rubber ones
     
  18. Gerald Morris

    Gerald Morris Senior Member

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    Here be da GOOD Shit: More Information for MELLING MPE614BR

    Here is an expandable copper plug for those difficult access holes: Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

    NOW for the MUST for ANY METAL PLUG YOU CHOOSE: Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

    This stuff should do you. If your schedule permits, do ALL of them. I know it doesn't always work that way. Also, AVOID STEEL PLUGS! Copper is less apt to corrode, and is a trifle more malleable, even when alloyed as brass. You WANT malleable for expansion plugs. Just don't mutilate them.
     
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  19. Drew-Pritchett

    Drew-Pritchett Member

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    Awesome, thanks again Gerald!