Front buckets polished aluminum accents?

[66SportFury]

Does anyone have any tips on getting scratches out of the polished aluminum accents on my bucket seats that are mounted to the back of the seats? Can this even be done?
Has anyone done this before?

 

[Big_John]

Not easy, but doable.

You have to strip the clear anodizing off first. Sand the scratches out, using progressively finer paper ending with 400 or 600. Then you polish out the sanding scratches with progressively finer compounds and wheels.

After that, you need to reseal the aluminum and the best way is to have the aluminum clear anodized. Some will say you can clear coat it but that is their opinion and not mine.

Google the process and you see there is a lot written on the subject. The easiest place to buy the buffing products is Eastwood. If you need a buffer, Harbor Freight has a couple cheap ones.

 

[66SportFury]

Thanks Big_John. Very helpful.

 

[bluefury361]

you need to reseal the aluminum and the best way is to have the aluminum clear anodized.QUOTE]
I've been having my stripped and polished aluminum parts glossy crystal clear powder coated with great results. Not many places around here will deal with re anodizing old pieces.

 

[tallhair]

There is a guy over at FBBO that does amazing work on aluminum and stainless. If you decide to let someone else do it you might ping him. Name is Zach and username is 5.7 hemi

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?66233-64-Dodge-outer-headlight-bezels

 

[Big_John]

you need to reseal the aluminum and the best way is to have the aluminum clear anodized.QUOTE]
I've been having my stripped and polished aluminum parts glossy crystal clear powder coated with great results. Not many places around here will deal with re anodizing old pieces.

That's interesting.

How do you prepare the surface of the aluminum for powder coat? Is it still polished?

 

[Stormer]

I had mine done at Metal Brite in Dayton, OH & they look brand new. I'm not sure what their process is but I know that it's mostly done by hand.

 

[Big_John]

Here's a couple links on the subject. The HAMB thread happens to use a 68 Chrysler and the Ford Truck link is the best link I have for a PDF called the "Now and Zen of Metal Polishing".

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=799131

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=18218

 

[66SportFury]

Thanks for all the info guys. Now off to go read.

 

[Zymurgy]

If you end up buying a buffer I would highly recommend the one from Eastwood. I have not had good luck with the Harbor freight grinder/buffers. The Eastwood is much better, I can make the HF come to a stop, the only thing it is good for is a grinding wheel. The Eastwood is very well make and not that expensive.

On a aluminum, however, it can go wrong really fast. If you do it yourself practice on something else first.

 

[66SportFury]

Believe me, I will practice before attempting this. I don't want to make it worse and end up looking for these parts.

 

[tallhair]

in addition to burning through the metal the small pieces like trim can also become projectiles and wind up in the drywall LOL

 

[tallhair]

Oh and apparently Curt's gone crazy

http://www.eastwood.com/promotions/...0C&utm_campaign=1EM2210C&utm_content=1EM2210C

 

[66SportFury]

I had mine done at Metal Brite in Dayton, OH & they look brand new. I'm not sure what their process is but I know that it's mostly done by hand.

Stormer, if you don't mind me asking, what was the cost?

 

[Big_John]

If you end up buying a buffer I would highly recommend the one from Eastwood. I have not had good luck with the Harbor freight grinder/buffers. The Eastwood is much better, I can make the HF come to a stop, the only thing it is good for is a grinding wheel. The Eastwood is very well make and not that expensive.

On a aluminum, however, it can go wrong really fast. If you do it yourself practice on something else first.

Yeah, some of the HF stuff is hit or miss. They are pretty good about replacing bad product though. Eastwood prices (on sale) aren't bad, but they kill me with shipping cost.

IMHO, I look at an underpowered buffer as a good thing for a guy starting out. Better to learn to take it slow. If you really want a good buffer or grinder, buy a Baldor.

 

[bluefury361]

That's interesting.

How do you prepare the surface of the aluminum for powder coat? Is it still polished?

No special prep needed. Once the piece is stripped and polished it just needs to be clean before it goes into the powder booth and oven. The finish will be as close to anadozing as you wll find. In addition, powder coat is much more durable then anadozing.
Once stripped the surface of parts removed from the front of an old car will show a lot of pitting, (there were a lot more dirt & gravel roads back then), and can be very hard to polish without burning through. Powder coat will mask & smooth the surface a little better then reanodizing.

 

[BIGBARNEYCARS]

I'd find a company that KNOWS WHAT THEIR DOING with an acid bath to get rid of the Anodizing on the aluminum. (it's ah timed thing, maybe 20-30 seconds and then a water bath after that to delute and kill the acid. Much more time then that in the acid bath and your aluminum iz desolved, GONE-GONE. Then I'd find somebody that polishes aluminum for a living. Those pieces are way thin. One false move and you've got junk. Then I'd follow Will's suggestion with clear coat powder coating. BTW, What part of the planet do you call home? I've got my sources for that stuff but Their all in and around the Motor City 'cept one in ah-hum...Cleveland! Jer

 

[bluefury361]

Personally, unless very experienced, I would recommend having stainless & aluminum parts professionally done. Inperfections in the surfaces can be hard to remove without special tools and experience, (and a lot of time). You can get all your buffing and polishing done by a pro for less then the cost of a buffer polish machine and supplies.

As far as a buffer goes. I use a 2 speed bench grinder motor with 6" buffer wheels varying in density. A hard wheel and green compound will remove the sanding scratches and minor imperfections. A softer wheel and white compound will provide a bright finish. I polished all of Jazebelles stainless using this method.

Last, (and I think most important), is the safety factor. DO NOT even turn a buffer on without a heavy apron, gloves and a full face shield. Not even to do a small touch up.
A spinning buffing wheel can snatch a part from your hand faster then you can imagine. If your lucky you won't need stitches and may even find the part ...... and hope it's undamaged.

 

[Stormer]

Stormer, if you don't mind me asking, what was the cost?

There was a per piece rate for polishing aluminum but I don't remember what it was. I remember that it was $650 for the bumpers and around $3500 for all the trim on the entire car including bumpers. I think....

 

[bluefury361]

I've got a source here in Birmingham Al for stainless & aluminum restoration if anyone is interested also. He's been doing it for almost 40 years.
Here are before and after pictures of a pair of 1960 chrysler stone shields he recently did for me .... cost .... $75.00 each. They were junk to start with, now worth $3-400.00