Front Clip removal

[Cazman]

So, my 68 300 is in a barn some distance from my house. My idea is to take the front clip off and bring that to my garage so that I can do the suspension, engine, and clean up everything this winter. Is this doable?

I have read what I have found on removing the stub frame. I am still a bit confused on the trans cross member. What exactly do I have to disconnect there to get the stub frame WITH transmission out? I read that the cross member should stay with the stub frame. So, after the stub frame bolts come out, will the cross member follow?

 

[a67furyman]

Hello Cazman,

Yes. First remove or disconnect wiring from motor to the uni-body part of the car. Remove steering column from steering box. Disconnect brake lines from brake master cylinder, as well as rear brake line from proportioning valve. Disconnect speedo cable from trans. If a/c car discharge system and disconnect. My understanding is you want to roll out the frame with trans and motor on it. You do not need to remove trans cross member. All you need to do is un bolt the frame from the uni body and roll it out.

 

[Mr C]

When you roll it out, it'll look something like this...except the engine/ trans will still be on it.

 

[mr. fix it]

I suggest you unload the torsion bars before removing or loosening up the transmission mount bracket.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

Exhaust, fuel line at the rear of the frame, radiator hoses and heater hoses, also

You don't need to jack the body that much.

Alan

 

[CBODY67]

BEFORE you do anything, you'd probably need to design a "holding fixture" for that assembled "stuff". Something "on wheels" as pictured. Having a body contact lift would be an asset! But it can be done without one, IF you have enough muscle from assistants, in a coordinated effort.

At the assembly plant, on unibody cars (of any year or make), the front "frames" went up from the bottom as one assembled unit. So think of that as you decide how to make things work. Then "reverse" the procedure to remove the item from the vehicle. Doing things in the "unit assembly" orientation is much better than "by the piece", whether stub frames or instrument panels.

Also take note of the style of bolt that holds things to the body. Keep them all labeled so they can go back into the same holes, for good measure. Plus the mountings insulators, too. Might want to get a large piece of cardboard with a graphic of the stubframe and its mount locations?

Work safely!
CBODY67

 

[MrMoparCHP]

I did this solo with a floor jack.

Lift car up on one side, place jack stand, move to other side, lift, roll cart under, lower that side, go to other side, lift, remove jack stand, lower.

Unbolt frame, lift body on one side (other side will go up), place jack stands under body, lower.

Pull frame out.

Having the front sheet metal on the car shouldn't impact things, other than needing to get the front higher.


Alan

 

[Davea Lux]

There will usually be some steel shims between the body mount and the stub, note the position of those shims as they will need to go back in the same spot once the stub has been cleaned up. (You can see one on MrC's post above.)

Dave

 

[Cazman]

Thanks all. Good info. Should be a piece of cake. LOL

 

[Furyus67]

You guys make it all sound so easy! Haha!

 

[68PK21 440.6bbl]

Really it is easy as this post shows! (been there done that)

Removing a rotten stub frame filled with rats nests and (probably) hantavirus