Front Floor pans C to C replacements

[Jim 68cuda]

After searching for months for a suitable donor car in my area, I decided to go ahead and order a pair of front floor pans from Classic to Current, for my 66 Polara convertible. They arrived by FedEx, yesterday (Sunday), just a few days after I ordered them on line. I had hesitated to order these pans as there were no positive reviews. I had actually wondered how much of my worst rust they would actually fix. I couldn't visualize if they would even work until I actually had them in hand. And that's why I'm posting these pics. I do wish they hadn't skimped on the drivers side. It would have been helpful if it extended a little further up behind the brake pedal, and if they hadn't cut it way down on the far left. But, despite being a bit inadequate in a couple critical areas, I think I can make them work. Also, I had hoped for enough metal on the sides to actually weld directly to the rockers. I knew that wouldn't be the case. It does appear that I can make these work with a strip of additional sheet metal welded on to attach to the rockers and a couple additional pieces of sheet metal to cover the holes the pans don't go far enough to cover.

 

[commando1]

Very interesting post. Thank you.
The way I see them is that they're good for 80% of the job which makes the total job easier if you don't have a brake and a bead roller.
Seeing this, I'll change my opinion on the C2C floor pans being total garbage to being useful with extra work needed.

 

[azblackhemi]

I've posted these before but I put one of their trunk floors in a 59 Desoto. While it doesn't measure up to an AMD piece it does get the job done.

 

[azblackhemi]

For some reason this picture disappeared from my post.

 

[MoparMike]

I too was hesitant about C2C because of the bad reviews. As we couldn't find a donor we had no choice but to use them. While not perfect by any means we made them work. Now there is no worry of the seat falling through the floor. 1957 Royal.

 

[CBODY67]

When done with the welding and such, use some good cleaner and let the seam sealer flow into all of the seams and finish off with some good paint and undercoat underneath. Possibly hiding the repair better and also ensuring it won't have to be done again anytime soon.

Inside, similar but with seam sealer and paint, then some maybe some FlexSeal for sound deadening and moisture sealing purposes?

Thanks for the updates and information. Keep us posted on your progress!

CBODY67

 

[66furys]

My fury had rust under the driver seat and up into the rise to the firewall, but not much more. I used the same front driver panel and liked it fine. My issue was that it did not go up into the area of the firewall where the ebrake cable fits. Also, mine was bad under the seat, meaning another panel behind the C2C. So, it became interesting since this panel has two depressions that cross each other.....so try to form one, then another that causes the first to disappear. Finally built a set of wood dies, and used the tractor bucket for force and was able to press out a close fit for that center panel under the seat. It is so difficult on the driver side for the console wire trough, I wish they had one for that. There is a rear panel, but that is behind and in the rear footwell. Also, I did not want to weld, so cut the pan with about 3/4 along the edge and then used panel bond. Very happy with results. And, if anyone were to want to weld, they can still cut further and do so. I used seam sealer at the junctures, and covered with some sound deadener panels before carpet. I am not the welder that some have shown on this site, but am good with my final product that should last another lifetime. I put my pics on earlier.