FURYIOUS update

C Body Bob

Old Man with a Hat
Joined
Apr 8, 2012
Messages
12,008
Reaction score
18,817
Location
Youngsville, NC
BFAECCED-7290-4178-8733-63CD8409F52E.jpeg
The original 400 BBM is back in the car. Now my question is header wrap. Several years ago I bought a set of headers off EBAY. I think they were new. Can’t remember but they been up on the loft for years. FURYIOUS is drag only. No street. Should I wrap the headers or not. I’ll be putting them on soon
 

furious70

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2018
Messages
1,619
Reaction score
1,361
Location
Chitown
That's a good looking intake :thumbsup:

I wrapped headers on my bracket car to save burning myself checking plugs and such between rounds
 

Big_John

Illegitimi non carborundum
FCBO Gold Member
Joined
May 21, 2013
Messages
16,353
Reaction score
22,333
Location
Marcellus, NY
As I understand it, the theory is that if you keep the exhaust gas as hot as possible, it will flow faster.

Does it make a difference? I don't know if it will on your bracket car.

I would go with whatever makes it easier to work on the car. If the wrap is good for you to change plugs (if you change plugs), then go for it. If the wrap gets in the way, absorbs spilled or leaked oil, don't wrap the headers.
 

413

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2019
Messages
1,409
Reaction score
1,548
Location
NW USA
Exhaust Header Heat Wraps - Do Not Use

it was the thing to do in stock & Super Stock. They will try anything. Until the headers were falling apart. Especially in humid climates. Now you just don’t see wrapped headers adapt the drags in this area anyway.
 
Last edited:

C Body Bob

Old Man with a Hat
Joined
Apr 8, 2012
Messages
12,008
Reaction score
18,817
Location
Youngsville, NC
3C896EFB-4F8B-47D6-A092-CD776039696B.jpeg
9C9925CE-AF7E-4C10-8C18-CFE0D72ED71A.jpeg
BB21DCCE-8AE2-444B-83FA-CF8C238FCD68.jpeg
9C1C8529-0AC6-41F1-838C-1FE40D7FF382.jpeg
94477E4A-4DAD-4C10-9CB2-EC314E5E192E.jpeg
7FE0BB9F-30DF-4F25-A290-3F2BDF860B2B.jpeg
89A5387A-1F99-4F13-935C-EA93506EB8CC.jpeg
Other recent improvements have been a SFI B&M flex plate. A Mancini Racing baffled 8 qt pan. Had a time with the pick up tube on that. A 440 Source aluminum water pump housing. Mancini Racing deep trans pan hopefully will go on this weekend. And a Mancini Racing light weight mini starter. Also installed a 6 pack scoop on that glass hood I bought. I’ve been quite busy this summer. Call it Covid 19 build
 

67Monaco

Go Woke, Go Broke.
Joined
Nov 20, 2010
Messages
5,788
Reaction score
4,169
Location
Punta Gorda FL
I'd wrap em. Keep the heat in the headers. As John said the theory is they flow better wrapped.
 

C Body Bob

Old Man with a Hat
Joined
Apr 8, 2012
Messages
12,008
Reaction score
18,817
Location
Youngsville, NC
I'd wrap em. Keep the heat in the headers. As John said the theory is they flow better wrapped.
I’m a curious fellow by nature & I love data. Perhaps I run them unwrapped for a season then wrapped the next & that way I can an apples to apples comparison. And that would give one less thing to do this year as I’m ready to go. Tired of working & want to play some
 

furious70

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2018
Messages
1,619
Reaction score
1,361
Location
Chitown
I had headers wrapped for years with no issues, same set of headers stayed wrapped for years.
The hot side of my turbo piping has been wrapped for 8 years now and no deteriorated pipes. That's a street car that doesn't always get fully warmed up and dried out.
 

C Body Bob

Old Man with a Hat
Joined
Apr 8, 2012
Messages
12,008
Reaction score
18,817
Location
Youngsville, NC
5B9D17C5-9145-48C6-B4B1-F07ADAB15CA3.jpeg
Ok a series of more updates. I had to pull the engine back out & install a different flex plate....yea. Motor back in & I forgot to Oder the polyurethane spool mounts as the original rubber mounts are shot. While under the car bolting in the trans I noticed the oil pan was 1/16th of an inch from the center link. So I’m thinking the new engine mounts would fix this as the rubber in these old ones are sagging. Already well over budget & the season winding down I ordered polyurethane inserts instead.
 

C Body Bob

Old Man with a Hat
Joined
Apr 8, 2012
Messages
12,008
Reaction score
18,817
Location
Youngsville, NC
700CB5FB-47E4-4F3E-AB16-BC4307EA025C.jpeg
83044E4A-14AF-46DE-BDAA-36C616CFFB03.jpeg
9441CC5A-E575-46A6-BFF5-F38D6FCE6D28.jpeg
FF8DE05F-50F5-4E89-82B9-13CF09064ABE.jpeg
Now to install the drive shaft & the new improved drive shaft safety loop. The loop was custom made. I gave the guy the specs & I clearly measured wrong as it essentially even close. So I put the old loop back in that the tech guy doesn’t like. The driveshaft install also didn’t go as planned. One stripped u joint bolt & two more that felt funny. Discussions with fellow racers on Facebook (join my page FURYIOUS for more & better updates) I was told to put a U bolt in it. None of the local stores had one that would fit. So I only drilled out the one stripped hole & ran a 1/4 by 28 x 2 inch bolt through it. Not quite long enough so I’ll go back to the store & get a fine thread 1/4 x 20 x 2 1/2 & cut to proper size. Locking nut & star washer & the fellas tell me I’ll be fine
 

C Body Bob

Old Man with a Hat
Joined
Apr 8, 2012
Messages
12,008
Reaction score
18,817
Location
Youngsville, NC
1B9C5DC3-685D-4898-A32F-68DC19FBDFEB.jpeg
Mini starter mock up revealed the harnes not long enough to reach starter. At least the two positive main cables. So I’ll and a larger gauge extension. Also the battery lug hits the block so I’ll trim it. Also I need to order a cover to the bell housing were the starter goes in. The larger Chrysler starter didn’t need one but this mini leaves a big gaping hole. So that’s we’re I’m at. Get these things finished up this week I hope. Then on to headers & coolant lines/radiator
 

Big_John

Illegitimi non carborundum
FCBO Gold Member
Joined
May 21, 2013
Messages
16,353
Reaction score
22,333
Location
Marcellus, NY
So I only drilled out the one stripped hole & ran a 1/4 by 28 x 2 inch bolt through it. Not quite long enough so I’ll go back to the store & get a fine thread 1/4 x 20 x 2 1/2 & cut to proper size. Locking nut & star washer & the fellas tell me I’ll be fine

I've sheared those stock bolts off before and the solution is to drill through the flange and install a larger grade 8 bolt (usually an allen head) and nut. If you are doing one, do the rest and be done with it.
 

C Body Bob

Old Man with a Hat
Joined
Apr 8, 2012
Messages
12,008
Reaction score
18,817
Location
Youngsville, NC
I've sheared those stock bolts off before and the solution is to drill through the flange and install a larger grade 8 bolt (usually an allen head) and nut. If you are doing one, do the rest and be done with it.
I only plan to run this center section for a few races. It’s a 3:73 sure grip. I broke that 3:23 sure grip last year. Just want to see if this is enough gear. Get some trap RPM data. Then I’m going to put a gear with a spool in
 

C Body Bob

Old Man with a Hat
Joined
Apr 8, 2012
Messages
12,008
Reaction score
18,817
Location
Youngsville, NC
Another update:
Mini starter had a bad bendix gear so swapped it out with one of my core starters. Also cut away about 1/2 of the battery lug on it to clear the block. Had to install a jumper cable to reach the starter.
E3686F0F-5C85-4B30-A1A5-C177DEC043BA.jpeg
A7CB9D94-1838-4C86-8166-9DDEE35D331C.jpeg
5771FD5D-7BB2-4723-8D8E-46161F62678C.jpeg
 

C Body Bob

Old Man with a Hat
Joined
Apr 8, 2012
Messages
12,008
Reaction score
18,817
Location
Youngsville, NC
7827B304-565A-4818-9716-F38EFFBEF9F6.jpeg
FE398297-6B2E-4B5E-A92C-38BD7EBBE311.jpeg
384EED67-8D00-4A73-A880-7A62FF46035D.jpeg
Still not satisfied with the cranking power I added a second battery so much for all that work on weight savings ‍♂️☹️ but now with dual batteries the engine spins over strong. I had a cable I had removed from one of the cars i parted that was the perfect length so a painted it red to keep the tech guy happy. Today I’ll just finish up some loose odds & ends before I tackle the header install & trans coolant line install.
 
Top