GABRIEL Hi-Jacker OR MONROE Max-Air

Cartel

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Anyone using airshocks these days?
Just wondering which one is better or should I use them at all?
My car sits too low IMO.

thanks
 

gashog bll

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As an old dude from the 70s, I've had & ran both. Spoiler alert they use to be made by the same company. My personal opinion is this ... an air shock is an air shock. Downturn the air lines by exhaust the results are not good. We always ran the air lines inside the trunk. We put their T behind the license plate for easy access. We ran the air lines through a rubber grommet to get into trunk. Also from experience, carry a Bic stick pen with you. As you have never lived till pulled over for bumper height tape measuring. Just use pen end lower shocks. Air back up asap.hope that helps
 

Cartel

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ok thanks. I see the munroe's are $80 cheaper... both have plastic air valves now...

I see what you mean.. (images are for reference only, not my car)

1966-dodge-polara-500.jpg
1966-dodge-praara-500.jpg
 

WOT440

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Anyone using airshocks these days?
Just wondering which one is better or should I use them at all?
My car sits too low IMO.

thanks
The load of the vehicle is designed to be supported by the springs, and spring perches, not the shock mount. Transferring the vehicle load to the shock mount is not the intended purpose of the upper shock mount. I would correct the issue with new springs. My .02 cents.
 
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Cartel

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True I should probably get the springs rearced.
Used to be a guy in town that did it, fresh paint and all.
$50 a spring or somthing
 

Boydsdodge

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Should be lots of spring shops around. Trucks need spring serves regularly. Having springs rebuild with an extra leaf added and kept to correct ride height is what I would have done. Air shocks are very hard on the shock mounts.
 
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CBODY67

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I fully understand the issue with the rear upper shock mounts and their design intent, BUT . . . I put Gabriel Hi-Jackers on the rear of my 1970 Monaco Brougham to get the rear raised enough to not scrape the rear factory dual exhaust tips on driveway entrances and such. Just enough to level it out, which usually as about 60psi (minimum pressure of about 30psi, according to the literature which came with them).

This was back in about 1975 and the shocks are still there, having been replaced a once due to age. At the time, the Hi-Jackers were popular with people who wanted to raise the rear suspension to clear overly wide tires on the rear. The had a shield to protect the (allegedly fragile) air bag from debris and such which the tires might kick-up. Compared to the similar Monroes with no shield.

By observation, when I did that, it was the best choice. For time and expense. Sure, there are many spring shops which do heavy-duty trucks and such. But with all of them being 30+ miles away and NO experience with them OR how what they did might work and affect the ride/handling of the car, I got the Gabriels from a local auto supply and they worked fine. Even made the car act like it had a bit of a rear sway bar on it, which was neat!!! This car, when I bought it, had Monroe Load-Leveler rear shocks, which were old and did not do as they advertised. The car had been used for trailer-towing by the original owner.

Back then, too, getting new rear springs from Chrysler was not possible or desired due to cost. Again, even if available, not sure they would do what I wanted and not mess with the ride dynamics OR carry the weight of people in the rear seat. All I wanted was a level car.

On my '80 Newport, it came with some private-brand Monroe air shocks and a home-made trailer hitch. They were bouncy so I got a new set of Monroe Max-Air, as that was what was on it.. And they are still there, with minimal pressure in them.

ALL of the air lines, then as now, are plastic lines. If routed correctly, NO issues.

In one respect, having little constant pressure on the upper shock mount area can be much better than a very stiff rear shock and a very rough road's pounding on those mounts and their related body mount areas. As with the Monroe HD rear pickup shocks, from the mid-1980s and later, when the upper shock mounts got slightly loose and wallered-out the holes in Chevy pickup truck/Suburban frames . . . on smoother roads.

Monroe was Chrysler's vendor for shocks back then. Hopefully the current Monroe operatives have not changed the internal valving since back then. Or decreased the quality of materials and such.

By observation, spring shops do not taper-grind the edges of the leaves they build, just "rough cut" ends. Not having the tapered ends can tend to "ruin things" for me as it is NOT what Chrysler did back then. Which, also, can mean the rest of the spring will not last as it should. But they are a somewhat less-noticeable alternative to the older bolt-on helper leaf springs of old. In modern times, I might still be oriented toward air shocks as I have had good experiences with them, to just level-out a set of sagged rear leaf springs and not ruin the ride, yet improve the cornering a bit without having to add a rear sway bar.

Just MY experiences,
CBODY67
 
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thethee

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I recently swapped the rear air shocks on my Imperial and also had the choice between Gabriel's and Monroes and I just went with the cheaper option, monroe MA757 if I'm not mistaken. The lines are plastic so you have to be careful to mount it but it worked fine for me.

My '75 Imperial came with air shocks from the factory, although the set I took off probably wasn't OEM, so I assume the shock mounts were designed with this in mind.
 

CBODY67

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My '75 Imperial came with air shocks from the factory, although the set I took off probably wasn't OEM, so I assume the shock mounts were designed with this in mind.
In this case, "factory air shocks" would equate to "Automatic Level Control".

As I recall, Ford used to include rear air shocks (not ALC) on some of their heavier-duty trailer package full-size cars in the earlier 1970s. Rear air shocks were also standard equipment on the laater 1960s El Caminos (after ACDelco started making air shocks), too.
 

thethee

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In this case, "factory air shocks" would equate to "Automatic Level Control".

As I recall, Ford used to include rear air shocks (not ALC) on some of their heavier-duty trailer package full-size cars in the earlier 1970s. Rear air shocks were also standard equipment on the laater 1960s El Caminos (after ACDelco started making air shocks), too.
Correct, although my setup was no longer automatic that was its intended use, to correct the ride height with a heavy load so oncoming traffic wouldn't be blinded
 

WOT440

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I was once told to use separate lines for each air shock so right-side load and change, would not affect the left side and vice versa. Any truth to this?
 

CBODY67

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I was once told to use separate lines for each air shock so right-side load and change, would not affect the left side and vice versa. Any truth to this?
Our Exxon service station operative was a Ford guy. He knew them and had "the feel" for them, so he attracted lots of Ford customers. One was a family with a young lady (high school senior) who was a rifle shooting competitor. They had a late model Country Squire wagon (about 1974 or so, at that time). When they went to shooting matches away from DFW, they hauled their Airstream trailer to stay in while there. On one trip, as he related, one of the air lines broke and that side of the car was (now) over-loaded with a lowered ride height on that side. Think "sudden weight shift" and related dynamics on a 70mph Interstate Highway . . . at 70mph. Each air shock had its own dedicated air line.

This was after he installed the Hi-Jackers on my '70 Monaco to replace the worn out and ineffective Monroe LoadLevelers. The Hi-Jackers and similar Monroes had a common air supply line set-up.

NOW, many drag racers would use the individually-aired air shocks to pre-load the rear suspension for drag racing purposes. Putting more air into the rh side (for an open differential) or lh side (for a SureGrip-type differential, as the torque reaction would raise the lh rr wheel).

Just some recollections,
CBODY67
 

Blusmbl

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My '68 had air shocks on it until just recently (I have redone the rearend with Caltracs, split monos, and Viking Crusader adjustable shocks). When I replaced the air shocks, I noticed the passenger side of the C channel shock mount area was clearly tweaked and the shock isn't perpendicular anymore, or matching the drriver's side. I'm contributing that to the air shocks being overinflated all of the time to compensate for the sagged original springs.
 

Cartel

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I went to the shop here in town and he said they can re-arc them but he said they will go back after awhile.
Not sure what to do
 

CBODY67

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It might depend upon HOW they rearch them. Back in the 1970s, the spring shop we used was an old-style shop with an open kiln area where they put the leaves to get them red-hot for arching on a fixture for such. When the leaf had been heated, beaten on the arching fixture while hot, and then quenched in a tub of water (with a few flames, too), then they were allowed to continue air cooling.

By the middle 1980s, probably after some environmental rules had changed, the kiln was just an insulated tunnel. They now had a hydraulic press with a pointed end on the end of the press, where they used that every three inches or so to put a curve into the leaf. "Cold re-arching"? Probably not as good as the arch was now a segmented-flat-spotted areas rather than a smooth arch.

IF the springs fatigued due to being over-loaded or not substantial enough for the weight being carried, the re-arching might not be as durable, possibly? But if the springs were initially strong enough, with no additional weight being carried now as then, then the durability of the re-arch might last longer.

AND, it might have been that the shop is not set-up to do Chrysler's assymetrical leaf springs, so his "not hold up" dialogue might have been a nice way of saying they did not desire the job, by observation.

Several possible dynamics at play here!

FWIW,
CBODY67
 

'66 Fury I

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I have had springs re-arched a couple of times with great results. Both times the springs were dis-assembled and the leaves reshaped in a roll type machine. in each case a new (extra) leaf was added which extended the full length of the main leaf, eye to eye. The springs on my Fury were done some 30 years ago, and are still working well. Height is great, ride is great and load carring is normal. I have no idea what I paid, but in my mind- then and now, it was money well spent.
That is my experience. Much depends on the shop facilities and the person doing the work. the two shops I used were older and most of thier work was on trucks. Hope this is helpful. Lindsay
 
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