Garage doors....need some help

thrashingcows

Senior Member
Joined
May 15, 2012
Messages
3,254
Reaction score
2,620
Location
British Columbia
I got the quote on two insulated 12' x 12' over head doors in the new shop I plan on building this year, but it nearly floored me! The go to local company wants $3155 each, and just shy of $8K (taxes and installed)...and I'm not OK with that.

Just wondering if any Alberta, BC or even WA state members know of a garage door company that might sell for a tad less then that. Willing to travel to get them if the price is right. Would even consider good used.

Thank you for your help.
 
Try Calgary overhead doors or Glenmore doors. I got an 8 X 12 door with fancy glass at the top for approx. $1200 (white insulated).
That includes all the hardware.
I installed it myself.
Google them and ask for a quote.
 
I bet installation accounts for a big slice of that estimate. The older style spring wound doors could be dangerous, IDK if there is anything to watch for with roll up style doors.
 
The new torsion springs are safe, as long as they are installed correctly. A 12x 12 is not going to compare to an 8 x 12. The openers, and the installation are different. Also are they insulated, and do they have any glass?



I bet installation accounts for a big slice of that estimate. The older style spring wound doors could be dangerous, IDK if there is anything to watch for with roll up style doors.
 
Go rollup. Much cheaper. Much more secure. Much less maintenance.

PicsArt_05-10-10.37.40.png
 
Last edited:
The new torsion springs are safe, as long as they are installed correctly. A 12x 12 is not going to compare to an 8 x 12. The openers, and the installation are different. Also are they insulated, and do they have any glass?

Yes they will be insulated, and I would like some glass in them for natural light, but not a deal breaker.
 
That's the point behind torsion spring openers. They also are much more durable
 
Buy ah 36" stick of 1/2" S.S , cut it in half and get after it! Theirz 4 holes in each torsion bracket for winding and unwinding and 2 1/4 " square lock boltz as well in the same bracket. Set one 18" barz with the other one on the upper door frame and then loosen BOTH Lock bolts and un-wind ah 1/4 turn at ah time using both 18" barz and count the turns 1/4 turnz. 22 1/4 turns for an 8X8 foot door ..24 for an 8X 10 foot door and 26 for a 8X12' foot door. These are averages for those sizez of wood doorz. That's why you count, so you can get the same tension when you re-wind, Jer
 
Well after much pondering and consideration I plan on doing the shop properly with a frost wall foundation. I may not be installing the heated floors though, since again it turns out it has to be engineered and a contractor has to install it, which equals 10x's the cost of what I could do it for myself.
sad.gif
I will be installing a free standing wood burner stove for heating, and will insulate the heck out of the shop, code only calls for R5 for the walls and R30 for the ceiling, so will probably go with R30 for the walls and probably R48 for the ceiling. The added cost to upgrade the insulation is minimal, but has big returns on heating.

But on a positive note I listened to a members advice and have been watching for used garage doors. Just a reminder, I had a local company price out two 12x12 insulated overhead doors, installed and taxes would be about $8K!! Well I found a local demolition company that recently removed a bunch of insulated (with windows) overhead doors from a demo site, so I picked up a 16x12 for the front of the shop, and a 11x12 for the rear...all tracks and hardware for $1200!! I could have gotten the big power assist assemblies, but they were 3hp, 3phase and 240volt units, and I had already decided I will be installing manual chain hoists for the doors. The chain hoists are about $160 each brand new. So should be into both door with some seals and misc hardware for about $2000.....pretty happy about that.
 
code only calls for R5 for the walls and R30 for the ceiling, so will probably go with R30 for the walls and probably R48 for the ceiling. The added cost to upgrade the insulation is minimal, but has big returns on heating.
Rather than fiberglass check out Roxul great stuff. All the builder supply outlets sell it. A little more buxs but way easier to handle and install, plus it's 100% fireproof. I've quit using fiberglass completely, horrible stuff!

Heated floor. Before you pour the floor, buy a big coil of 3/4" plastic water pipe and snake it all over the floor area. Don't terminate the ends yet, call it future floor heat. Later on pickup a used boiler and a circulating pump. The boiler is what needs to be properly setup and installed, boiler = maybe steam = maybe explosion. However an open stock tank, a propane burner and a circulating pump does the job without any possibility of explosion so no inspectors.
 
Heated floor. Before you pour the floor, buy a big coil of 3/4" plastic water pipe and snake it all over the floor area. Don't terminate the ends yet, call it future floor heat. Later on pickup a used boiler and a circulating pump. The boiler is what needs to be properly setup and installed, boiler = maybe steam = maybe explosion. However an open stock tank, a propane burner and a circulating pump does the job without any possibility of explosion so no inspectors.

Thank you for the advice Bill.....

The problem with that is that you need the proper barrier pipe to be embedded in the concrete, so regular water pipe will not work. The inspector will want to see that it has an engineered drawing and installed properly before they will let the concrete slab to be poured.
 
Great suggestion and find on the garage doors. I will put my 2 cents worth in too. I insulated like you discribed and my 30x40 shop heats very easily and stays cool in the summer too.

Now on heat I installed a propane vented heater. I couldn't be happier. My initial cost $1,000 and installed myself after the final inspection. I only heated when I was in the shop and no fumes. The first 400 gallons lasted me 3 years.

What is nice with the propane is on a 10 degree day in 15 minutes I am taking my coat off it heats up that fast. The other advantage is with the thermostat you set it to meet your needs. If you are painting you can leave the heat on until it is dry and cured.

What I installed looks similar to this.

thumbnail.jpg
 
Thank you for the advice Bill.....

The problem with that is that you need the proper barrier pipe to be embedded in the concrete, so regular water pipe will not work. The inspector will want to see that it has an engineered drawing and installed properly before they will let the concrete slab to be poured.

Picky, but he's probably mostly correct. Another factor I suppose is freezing. If your heat source quits in the dead of winter, the pipe will swell, probably wouldn't burst the pipe but it would do bad things to the concrete.

In the areas where you stand or lay on the floor, consider the floor electrical heating grid they use in bathrooms.
 
Back
Top