Grabby, locking up brakes.

Jon O.

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2017
Messages
738
Reaction score
723
Location
Indianapolis indiana
My 72 Newport has very sensitive brakes, they feel like they are going to throw you through the windshield, but the car is hardly stopping. And when it rains, the brakes tend to lock up!:wideyed: I have slid into an intersection once, and nearly hit someone twice! Its scared the crap out of me. Maybe the rear drums aren't doing anything? Because it just feels like stopping a train in dry weather.
Any suggestions from someone more experienced than me?
 
My 72 Newport has very sensitive brakes, they feel like they are going to throw you through the windshield, but the car is hardly stopping. And when it rains, the brakes tend to lock up!:wideyed: I have slid into an intersection once, and nearly hit someone twice! Its scared the crap out of me. Maybe the rear drums aren't doing anything? Because it just feels like stopping a train in dry weather.
Any suggestions from someone more experienced than me?

There are several things that could be causing this:

1.) Be sure that both front and rear brakes on the split system are properly bled.
2.) Check the rear brake adjusters for proper adjustment, if this is a drum brake application, also check the front brake adjustment.
3.) Check the rear brake shoes for contamination from oil or brake fluid.
4.) If that does not solve the problem, check the travel rod adjustment for the master cylinder.
5.) Press down on the brake pedal firmly, Does the pedal sink? If so you have an internal leak in the master cylinder and it needs to be replaced. Could also have a leak at one or more wheel cylinders. Holding down the pedal will cause brake fluid to drip from out of the bottom of the brake drum. If any wheel cylinder fails this test, replace them all and replace all rubber hoses while you are at it.
6.) Are you hearing any hissing when you hold down the brake pedal? If so, your booster is probably shot.
7.) If the booster makes a hissing sound all the time, your check valve is probably shot.
8.) If the brake pedal feels abnormally "hard", the vacuum line from the manifold may have collapsed internally and is starving the booster for operating vacuum. This condition is often intermittent, it will vary with engine operating conditions, if you have an erratic feel to the pedal, that is your likely problem.

Dave
 
Sounds like the shoes are on backwards or you have contaminated linings. If you investigate yourself the forward shoe will be noticeably smaller than the rear. I have seen them installed backwards or both primaries on one side and secondaries on the other.... I hate advice I often hear like "just look at the other side"... too many times I have found pro's getting this wrong.

Any grease or oil that gets on the brake linings will cause lockup issues too. Once it cooks from the heat, it makes them very "grabby".

On a reread of your concern, you are wondering if the rears are working... If that means the fronts have been locking up, you should have the entire system inspected right away. IIRC you don't do much of your own work and brake issues really need to be addressed before you lose your classic.
 
There are several things that could be causing this:

1.) Be sure that both front and rear brakes on the split system are properly bled.
2.) Check the rear brake adjusters for proper adjustment, if this is a drum brake application, also check the front brake adjustment.
3.) Check the rear brake shoes for contamination from oil or brake fluid.
4.) If that does not solve the problem, check the travel rod adjustment for the master cylinder.
5.) Press down on the brake pedal firmly, Does the pedal sink? If so you have an internal leak in the master cylinder and it needs to be replaced. Could also have a leak at one or more wheel cylinders. Holding down the pedal will cause brake fluid to drip from out of the bottom of the brake drum. If any wheel cylinder fails this test, replace them all and replace all rubber hoses while you are at it.
6.) Are you hearing any hissing when you hold down the brake pedal? If so, your booster is probably shot.
7.) If the booster makes a hissing sound all the time, your check valve is probably shot.
8.) If the brake pedal feels abnormally "hard", the vacuum line from the manifold may have collapsed internally and is starving the booster for operating vacuum. This condition is often intermittent, it will vary with engine operating conditions, if you have an erratic feel to the pedal, that is your likely problem.

Dave
It has a new master cylinder, the old one internally leaked. The booster does not hiss. The pedal does not sink at all, it is best described as:
There is about an inch of travel and then the brakes power happens all at once. The pedal does feel fairly hard, but not too much. But it tends to want to throw me forward without stopping the car, it nosedives.
 
It has a new master cylinder, the old one internally leaked. The booster does not hiss. The pedal does not sink at all, it is best described as:
There is about an inch of travel and then the brakes power happens all at once. The pedal does feel fairly hard, but not too much. But it tends to want to throw me forward without stopping the car, it nosedives.

If you replaced the master, the next best guess is improperly adjusted or bled rear brakes. Also could have oil or fluid on the rears. Note that bad masters also tend to leak brake fluid into the booster and ruin it. 1" free play on the pedal is ok, so I do not think you have a travel rod issue.

Dave
 
Sounds like the shoes are on backwards or you have contaminated linings. If you investigate yourself the forward shoe will be noticeably smaller than the rear. I have seen them installed backwards or both primaries on one side and secondaries on the other.... I hate advice I often hear like "just look at the other side"... too many times I have found pro's getting this wrong.

Any grease or oil that gets on the brake linings will cause lockup issues too. Once it cooks from the heat, it makes them very "grabby".

On a reread of your concern, you are wondering if the rears are working... If that means the fronts have been locking up, you should have the entire system inspected right away. IIRC you don't do much of your own work and brake issues really need to be addressed before you lose your classic.
I only do the work that I know how to do. That is why I love this forum is because I am new to fixing cars. I only know how to do what I remember from helping my dad.
My grandfather used to be a mechanic in this era, and he is helping me fill in blanks. I will surely have him help me look at it.
I am not worried about losing the classic, I am worried about losing my life!
 
I only do the work that I know how to do. That is why I love this forum is because I am new to fixing cars. I only know how to do what I remember from helping my dad.
My grandfather used to be a mechanic in this era, and he is helping me fill in blanks. I will surely have him help me look at it.
I am not worried about losing the classic, I am worried about losing my life!

Go to www.mymopar.com the FSM for you car is available in the Tools/Reference section for a free download. Old cars are a learning process for those of you who did not grow up with them.

Dave
 
ok so after some reading,
And I should note that the brake idiot light has never come on, and I know that it does work.
It could be almost anything haha.
Ill have to have my grandfather look at the car and show me what to do. I don't have enough experience to diagnose this myself. I also don't feel safe screwing around with the brakes. I hardly use the car, so I won't drive it until I get it looked at.
Thank you all for your help!
 
Jack up the car ( rear ) , put your foot on the pedal and a other person can turn the weels.
I think they are free so adjust them till you get some recistance………..
I did have the same problem…….
 
Jack up the car ( rear ) , put your foot on the pedal and a other person can turn the weels.
I think they are free so adjust them till you get some recistance………..
I did have the same problem…….
They are, ive taken a tire off before and there was none. I remember that, but I didn't know any better. Aren't they supposed to be self- adjusting? How do you adjust them?
 
They are, ive taken a tire off before and there was none. I remember that, but I didn't know any better. Aren't they supposed to be self- adjusting? How do you adjust them?
They are supposed to self adjust, but the adjusters can get rust and cruddy and not turn freely which would keep them from adjusting. To adjust them manually you pull an oval shaped plug out of the baking plate and use a brake tool or screw driver to turn the star wheel.

Never fear I was about 20 when I bought my first 68 in the 90's use the manual and your grandfather's wisdom and you'll figure it out.
 
There's a great shop in camby that did my brakes if you don't want to work on them

A&A Transmissions
5061 E N County Line Road
Camby, IN 46113

They do way more than just transmissions
 
Back
Top