Grille Dent Repair

[LocuMob]

Not C body, but we have some of the finest folks around and more knowledge then Encyclopedia Britannica, here I go.

I'm wondering how hard it would be to clean up these dents on this grille. Don't want to drop a lot of coin if I have to restore it, I can do that with the one I have. Can the dents be worked out and the grille then be polished? My friend has a buffing wheel and compounds so I can do that.

 

[300rag]

70's D series grille?

 

[LocuMob]

Yes sir, an elusive 72-73 version. I got it off my friends Grandpa's truck that we pilfered the 360 and drivetrain from. And any other usable parts, like the bumper also!

 

[cm23uoc]

I guess that's anodyzed aluminum ? Polishing will remove that layer and it will be prone to mist up and Need repolishing from time to time. You get at least acceptable results with straightening out the dents with some TLC; stainless is much better to work with.

 

[Big_John]

Tech...Polishing anodized aluminum trim

Tech Week May 2013, Chrome Trim Repair Simplified

 

[LocuMob]

Tech...Polishing anodized aluminum trim

Tech Week May 2013, Chrome Trim Repair Simplified

Too bad the pictures don't show.

 

[Big_John]

Too bad the pictures don't show.

What browser are you using? There are browser "plug-ins" that can be downloaded to see the pics.

Google "photobucket plug-ins" for the fix.

 

[CBODY67]

First off, some of our guys were going to "polish" their aluminum trim on their A- and B-body cars. With a buffing wheel and compound, it took forever to get THROUGH the anodized layer and to the base metal, but when there, the trim polished-up nicely and looked like stainless steel trim. BUT, once one piece was done, had to do the rest to match! They said "Never again!"

As for knocking out the dents and such, just like any other piece of aluminum, although the anodizing seems to make things harder. Might need a little heat, but not too much? Then sand and smoothout, then some polish. Seems like I saw some "clear anodize" spray from VHT several years ago?

You CAN paint on top of the anodize, as many did to touch-up the flaking factory black moldings on '77-'81 Z/28s. Didn't do too well, even when they sanded before paint, though.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[LocuMob]

Here's another question, for the $250 asking price, would you hold out for a better condition, more expensive piece, or try to save this one?

I'm not against saving one, but if I'm going to double the cost to make this one look pretty, I'd rather not waste my time.

 

[Polara_500]

250 for that??? Scott, I'm beginning to doubt your sanity.

 

[Big_John]

First off, some of our guys were going to "polish" their aluminum trim on their A- and B-body cars. With a buffing wheel and compound, it took forever to get THROUGH the anodized layer and to the base metal, but when there, the trim polished-up nicely and looked like stainless steel trim. BUT, once one piece was done, had to do the rest to match! They said "Never again!"

As for knocking out the dents and such, just like any other piece of aluminum, although the anodizing seems to make things harder. Might need a little heat, but not too much? Then sand and smoothout, then some polish. Seems like I saw some "clear anodize" spray from VHT several years ago?

You CAN paint on top of the anodize, as many did to touch-up the flaking factory black moldings on '77-'81 Z/28s. Didn't do too well, even when they sanded before paint, though.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

The anodize is removed very easily with chemicals like original EZ-Off oven cleaner or even straight Purple Power degreaser. Dents are easy to work out, patience is the key word though so as little file work as possible to smooth it back out. No heat needed, the aluminum is hard from age, but not so hard it can't be easily worked.

I've straightened and buffed a lot of stainless and aluminum and believe me, it's not rocket surgery. It's just taking your time and thinking about what you are doing.

The original anodized surface is gone, but it just takes a little more care to keep the surface from oxidizing. Some guys have done clear powdercoating over the finished pieces and that seems to work. I tried some clear lacquer and wasn't happy with the end result, so I just keep it polished.

 

[LocuMob]

250 for that??? Scott, I'm beginning to doubt your sanity.

I can't believe you thought I had any in the first place!

I got a price first, told them to send pics, and have been looking trying to find any reason to get it. Mine has holes from the winter cover, but is better than this one. I haven't seen any NOS or near mint grilles for these years that anyone wants to sell. Hard part to find. I think the price is high personally, don't know if they will negotiate or not. Haven't asked as I haven't decided.

 

[cantflip]

I can't believe you thought I had any in the first place!

I got a price first, told them to send pics, and have been looking trying to find any reason to get it. Mine has holes from the winter cover, but is better than this one. I haven't seen any NOS or near mint grilles for these years that anyone wants to sell. Hard part to find. I think the price is high personally, don't know if they will negotiate or not. Haven't asked as I haven't decided.

At that price, I think I'd keep looking.

If you try, the old saying for dent removal is "first in, last out"... Do not work from the deepest part, but from the edge of the dent.

 

[barnfind]

I can't believe you thought I had any in the first place!

I got a price first, told them to send pics, and have been looking trying to find any reason to get it. Mine has holes from the winter cover, but is better than this one. I haven't seen any NOS or near mint grilles for these years that anyone wants to sell. Hard part to find. I think the price is high personally, don't know if they will negotiate or not. Haven't asked as I haven't decided.

Ill keep my eyes peeled for ya

 

[CBODY67]

The anodize is removed very easily with chemicals like original EZ-Off oven cleaner or even straight Purple Power degreaser. Dents are easy to work out, patience is the key word though so as little file work as possible to smooth it back out. No heat needed, the aluminum is hard from age, but not so hard it can't be easily worked.

I've straightened and buffed a lot of stainless and aluminum and believe me, it's not rocket surgery. It's just taking your time and thinking about what you are doing.

Thanks for that "removal" information! When our guys were trying find a way to get rid of the white-milky tint the windshield moldings had acquired with age, the best course they could figure out was "polish" with a buffing motor and such, like other metals. This was about 30 years ago. Obviously better ways to get there, now.

CBODY67