Hard shift

[swisherred]

67 newport 383/727

So I finally started driving the Newport and I'm finding that it seems to stay in gears a bit too long and then shifts a bit hard due to higher rpms. Anyone have thoughts on this? Kickdown not adjusted right? No clue where it is actually supposed to shift but I'm sure it's not kicking down when it should and I don't know anything about adjusting that.

 

[swisherred]

I'm shifting into 3rd around 45mph...2nd about 30....

 

[swisherred]

Found a thread that might be what I'm looking for about late shifting. The carb had been replaced so they probably didn't install correctly. Will look at it this weekend.

 

[bigmoparjeff]

Sounds like a kickdown linkage adjustment issue.

From the factory, they were set to shift up on the early side. With light to medium throttle, it was normal to be in 3rd by 25-30 mph.

 

[mr. fix it]

'kickdown" is likely the culprit...

 

[MrMoparCHP]

With the engine OFF, hold the throttle wide open, then adjust the kickdown to just slide on while pushing it all the way back.

That should put you at a good starting point.


Alan

 

[thrashingcows]

I agree on the kickdown.....they can be finicky to fine tune and a bit time consuming, but in the scope of things not that tough of a job.

 

[swisherred]

Looking at pictures of the setup...I think I might be missing a spring too...Don't remember there being two on it but can't tell til I get home. Will try adjusting and see what happens. Also have to check the fluid...can't remember if I checked it already.

 

[swisherred]

Yep....missing spring. Will start there and adjust.

 

[71Polara383]

Yep....missing spring. Will start there and adjust.

View attachment 254896

Kickdown not properly adjusted will kill a torqueflight quick fast and in a hurry.

 

[thrashingcows]

Yup the transmission require throttle pressure on the kick down or it will burn up within a 100 miles or so.

 

[swisherred]

ok....so i looked in the manual and it shows several springs to choose from...how do I know which one is correct? color and number of coils? and do they both need to match?

 

[swisherred]

I might have another issue going on. The car was originally a 2BBL and now is a 4BBL. I dont know if the linkage parts are even correct.
from an article...“Simply replacing a two-barrel carb for a four-barrel carb completely messes up how the kick-down system works. The throttle cable is longer for a four-barrel carb, so when you try to use the linkage off a two-barrel carb it’s too short. When upgrading from a small-block to a big-block, or a low-deck to a tall-deck block, or a wedge to a Hemi, each specific combo requires a very specific combination of kick-down linkage components to make it all work. It gets even more complicated if you use non-stock parts like a high-rise intake manifold or a dual-quad carburetor.”

anyone have pictures or info on what I should have for this to all work correctly with the 4BBL?

 

[swisherred]

awesome video resource.....now I understand whats going on a bit more.

 

[68PK21 440.6bbl]

I believe if memory serves me correctly without having to search through many engine pics that this rod is upside down. Carb bracket maybe incorrect that's why rod was installed that way.

 

[swisherred]

I believe if memory serves me correctly without having to search through many engine pics that this rod is upside down. Carb bracket maybe incorrect that's why rod was installed that way.

View attachment 254926

yes....I did notice that...im not sure if it makes a difference or not, but im sure it was designed a specific way.

 

[cbarge]

Ok if my memory serves me correctly.....
When I converted my 68 383 from 2bbl to 4bbl I used a throttle cable from a slant six. It is longer.
I also grabbed all the kickdown linkage from a wrecked 4bbl 383 car. Including the proper 4 barrel throttle bracket.
The 68 kickdown linkage is a complicated set of rods.
If you cannot score the correct parts next best thing is get a LOKAR kickdown cable.
I used them in the past on other mopare and are easy to install and adjust.
That may piss off the purists but so what when you really want to drive your car and not toast the trans.

 

[68PK21 440.6bbl]

yes....I did notice that...im not sure if it makes a difference or not, but im sure it was designed a specific way.

The push of the bellcrank may not be enough or different than designed.

 

[swisherred]

so this is what I found in the books...the bold are the differences. I will check and see what numbers are on my parts tomorrow and see if they converted the linkages when they did the carb.
383
2bbl
carb to cable mount 2806-444
cable mount to b crank blank 2536-273???
b crank to trans 2536-274
throttle bracket 2465-433
throttle br. lever 2465-413

383/440/426
4bbl
carb to cable mount 2806-448
cable mount to b crank 2536-273
b crank to trans 2536-274
throttle bracket 2536-828
throttle br. lever 2465-413

 

[thrashingcows]

I have done a few 2bbl to 4bbl conversions before, but have a large box of misc rods and linkage form parts vehicles over the years to draw from. I also will cut, bend and weld if I need to extend a rod or ???

My guess why that rod is upside down is that it is for the 2bbl cab and would have been mounted on the other side of the bracket and in the correct orientation, but that would but the mounting point for the kick down on the carb in the wrong spot, hence the flipped rod, at least it mounts up now. But you may not have enough adjustment to get things set properly, looks like it's threaded out almost all the way now.