I have a 67 fury III 318 auto. I've been having a timming issue the engine has to idle high so when i drop in to R or D she'll cut of ive re-timed it twice vac advance un plugged idled down of course. I hav'nt check mu points dwell yet but didnt know if anyone has had this problem...i dont know if it has an aftermarket tourqe converter ive driven nothing but 5spds my whole life so dont know much about stalls and things of that nature.
Has to idle high or cuts off in gear
- Thread starter 1967MOPAR
- Start date
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Your torque converter has nothing to do with it and it's not your point dwell because you would know it throughout your RPM range.
Frankly, trying to adjust a carb and set the timing without a vacuum gauge is just a plain waste of time. For years I, myself, went "by ear" and it took me a long time to finally figure out I was going by too many urban myths and old wive's tales.
Get a vacuum gauge kit, a low-end timing light (you don't need those high priced things) and a mechanical dwell meter, not for the dwell, primarily, but to check your RPM when under the hood checkiing your vacuum readings, fiddling with the carb and adjusting the timing.
Google "How to use a vacuum gauge" + tuneup and you'll find a ton of well explained, simple to follow procedures.
All three items will be under 75 bucks at the chains and you'll have them for life. Also know what specs your stock timing and idle RPM is supposed to be.
You have to do that first and only then can you move on to what other issues is causing it if it's still there.
Frankly, trying to adjust a carb and set the timing without a vacuum gauge is just a plain waste of time. For years I, myself, went "by ear" and it took me a long time to finally figure out I was going by too many urban myths and old wive's tales.
Get a vacuum gauge kit, a low-end timing light (you don't need those high priced things) and a mechanical dwell meter, not for the dwell, primarily, but to check your RPM when under the hood checkiing your vacuum readings, fiddling with the carb and adjusting the timing.
Google "How to use a vacuum gauge" + tuneup and you'll find a ton of well explained, simple to follow procedures.
All three items will be under 75 bucks at the chains and you'll have them for life. Also know what specs your stock timing and idle RPM is supposed to be.
You have to do that first and only then can you move on to what other issues is causing it if it's still there.
BillGrissom
Active Member
My 69 Dart slant six ran like that for decades, thru multiple carburetors, intake manifold (suspected vacuum leak), head jobs, and electronic ignition mod. When still idled bad after a whole new long block, I tried a ~4th carburetor and it ran amazingly smooth and never fumbled when shifted from P to D. So, it was (many) bad carbs. I think they all idled too lean.
That was a Holley 1920 single barrel, with only 1 idle mixture screw, so unlikely I mis-adjusted it. I tried rebuilding some, but they had a sealed metering block so no way me or any rebuilder could know it was OK. Over the years, I had taken it to various mechanics who guessed "bad valves", "vacuum leak", etc., took my money but no fix.
Besides rebuilding or replacing the carb, consider installing an O2 sensor. You need to weld a bung in the exhaust pipe(s), but any muffler shop can do that. You can get a simple Holley or MSD lean/rich indicator box on ebay ($130 new, $25 used). Or maybe weld 2 bungs for a regular and a wide-band sensor, since the later is more useful and getting affordable (I have one). You can then calibrate the wideband to the regular. Without an O2 sensor you are "flying blind". I have a regular one on my Newport w/ Holley Pro-jection and constantly have to tweak the controller knob to adjust rich/lean since the Holley box is pretty primitive. I know well how it runs when too lean (stumbles) or rich (slows gradually then dies).
That was a Holley 1920 single barrel, with only 1 idle mixture screw, so unlikely I mis-adjusted it. I tried rebuilding some, but they had a sealed metering block so no way me or any rebuilder could know it was OK. Over the years, I had taken it to various mechanics who guessed "bad valves", "vacuum leak", etc., took my money but no fix.
Besides rebuilding or replacing the carb, consider installing an O2 sensor. You need to weld a bung in the exhaust pipe(s), but any muffler shop can do that. You can get a simple Holley or MSD lean/rich indicator box on ebay ($130 new, $25 used). Or maybe weld 2 bungs for a regular and a wide-band sensor, since the later is more useful and getting affordable (I have one). You can then calibrate the wideband to the regular. Without an O2 sensor you are "flying blind". I have a regular one on my Newport w/ Holley Pro-jection and constantly have to tweak the controller knob to adjust rich/lean since the Holley box is pretty primitive. I know well how it runs when too lean (stumbles) or rich (slows gradually then dies).
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Thanks very helpful...ive herd choke could be the problem lean at idle as well....yeah i will try an get some of those tools...the motor Just hit 4k miles and she's my daily driver so I am trying to get this resolved rather quicky. Thanks Stan and Bill
She'll also detonate in N or P starting at maybe like 3500ish 4000 rpm but underload is fine thru out entire rpm band im sure once i get vac kit and dwell meter she'll run good. I was think about installing a vac gauge on the fire wall i can get those parts cheap used from my friend who have tuner shops.
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