Head gaskets

polara383500

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Has anyone used these head gasket before?
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Restrictions by design. Forces water to flow in certain directions. Do the new gaskets match your old ones?????
 
Restrictions by design. Forces water to flow in certain directions. Do the new gaskets match your old ones?????
Don’t remember what the old ones look like it’s been apart for a couple months and just not putting it back together!
 
They are twice as thick as stock steel gaskets so you will loose Some compression.
They do function and seal just fine.
 
Those are the .040" FelPro teflon-coated head gaskets. The cylinder fire rings have a thin coat of the blue teflon coating on them, by design.

The compression loss due to the .040" vs. .020" thickness of the OEM steel shim head gaskets will be very minor and result in a very slight power decrease which by the time it gets to the rear wheels, could well be un-noticed in the real world of things.

Just some thoughts and observations,
CBODY67
 
Clean Brake cleaner and clean rags. If anything it left on there use a new razor blade or a good gasket scraper with no burrs and scrape off anything still there. It needs to be clean bare metal.

It an engine has had these fuel-pro blue gaskets before it will leave some blue residue and it’s hard to get it all off and it doesn’t need to all come off to assemble it again.

I don’t agree that with the Blanket statement that the compression loss will be unnoticed, it depends how low it is to start and the stroke of the engine. 440-273- slant 6, etc.

If you have a motorhome engine and the aluminum head combo that will be a Bigger hit than a 1960’s 440 with original pistons and iron heads.
 
Clean Brake cleaner and clean rags. If anything it left on there use a new razor blade or a good gasket scraper with no burrs and scrape off anything still there. It needs to be clean bare metal.

It an engine has had these fuel-pro blue gaskets before it will leave some blue residue and it’s hard to get it all off and it doesn’t need to all come off to assemble it again.

Just good, clean, bare metal (cyl deck and head surfaces) as the result. I do recommend only chemical cleaning followed by scraping as mentioned, rather than using any type of abrasive cleaner (ScotchBrite or similar pads, for example), no matter how well you might have "sealed" the cylinders against such.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
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