Headlight Relays with Hidden Headlights

Electrical & Ignition

  1. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    I had a request a while back to do a thread on headlight relays. It's been done before on here, and I'm not doing anything different, although I am covering a relay for the headlight motors too.

    You'll need two relays. As I always recommend, go with Tyco/Bosch relays. Don't scrimp and buy the Chinese knock-offs. I buy them from Amazon. Best deal I've found for genuine Tyco relays.

    Amazon.com: Metra Install E-123 Bay Tyco Relay 12 Volt 30 Amp Each: Car Electronics

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    Next you'll need two sockets. These are available on Ebay or Amazon.

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    Amazon.com: Absolute SRS105 5-Pin 12 VDC Relay Socket Interlocking Style: Electronics

    A 30amp circuit breaker can come from any parts store.

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    Some 12 gauge wire. To match the existing wires, you'll need black, red and purple. Some 8 gauge wire in your choice of color.

    Some connectors as needed.
    Universal GM Chrysler Ford Female Terminal Connector 14 12 AWG 25 Pack

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    Two bags of Packard 56 connectors. These are the wider connectors for the headlights.

    .3125 Wide Packard 10 12 AWG Female Lock Tab Terminal

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    Here's how it's wired.

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  2. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    You're going to find a good spot to cut the existing wiring to the headlights. Some do it at the radiator support, but I chose to mount the relays on the speed control bracket.

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    Here are the two relays. One for high beams and one for low beams. The large red wire on the circuit breaker is the feed and the smaller purple and red wires feed the individual relays.

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    The 8 gauge wire runs from a good source of battery voltage. I used the battery feed on the starter relay, I used that as a source. Other good sources are the starter stud or even the battery itself. Some like to use the alternator stud, but I prefer the other sources.

    From the relays, I used 12 gauge wire, and used the Packard 56 connectors. I also used the existing insulators. These are the only connectors that fit the headlight tabs. Most of the headlight insulators available with "pigtails" are smaller than 12 gauge.

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    One thing about the connectors, they really aren't made for doubling up the 12 gauge wire or using the 8 gauge. You may need to solder these connections. If there's a source for larger gauge connectors, I'd love to hear about it.
     
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2017
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  3. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    This all worked the way it was supposed to... Headlights were a little brighter etc... Until I went to turn off the lights. I quickly discovered that the headlight doors didn't work right at all. I could h"trick" them into closing by hitting the dimmer switch, but it wasn't consistent at all.

    I thought about it and realized the Charger guys had to have these same issues.... I found out they were just replaced the factory headlight relay with a Tyco unit.

    The relay is located (on my 70 300 anyway) on the left of the dash, next to the A/C duct. There's a circuit breaker and connections to the door motors and headlight switch.

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    The new relay needs to be wired like this:

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    Same relay etc. as above. I decided not to splice into the wiring and use the existing connections. I used a couple ring connectors and some spade connectors with an insulator.

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    I wrapped the connections with 3M splicing tape.

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    The relay was mounted under the dash on the steering column support.

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  4. saylor

    saylor Senior Member

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    Sir!

    do you get light flutter/flicker being powered from the ALT wire? or is that tied to BATT at the starter relay pole? so its really fed from BATT?

    can you please diagram the 'right headlights' ? right now i cant make sense of the relay -to-light (87) feed.

    thanks!

    - saylor
     
  5. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    It's hooked to the battery at the starter relay terminal.

    I just reread what I wrote and edited it. It wasn't what I intended to say.. Let's call it a small brain fart. I think I clarified (or corrected) myself.

    The right headlights are the same as the left, but I'll change the drawing to show them too.
     
  6. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    CbabMU5.jpg

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    Last edited: Jul 2, 2017
  7. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    The relay on the right is for the low beams and the one on the left is the high beams.

    One tab on each headlight goes to ground. BTW, that wire should also be replaced with 12 gauge.

    One tab on the low/high light (purple) goes to the right relay for the low beam. The other tab (red) goes to the left for the high. The high beam lights has a tab (red) that goes to the left relay for the high beam.

    Does that help?
     
  8. tbm3fan

    tbm3fan Senior Member

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    My source

    BEST QUALITY H4 / 9003 High Temperature Headlight Socket / Plug / Connector. We Welcome Custom Orders! All of our Head Light Sockets / Plugs / Connectors are made with USA Wire! - Innova Design & Dist. Inc. (909) 971-0000
     
  9. swisherred

    swisherred Senior Member

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    So I bought these connectors for the headlight sockets at $1/ea and they don't even come close to fitting in the original connectors. They don't even look like the terminals I pulled out. Same width but that's it. Any suggestions?
     
  10. swisherred

    swisherred Senior Member

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    I think I found the proper connector for my headlight sockets. 42663-2 I do not have the packard 56 connectors for some reason. Original harness to the car...
     
  11. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    I can't tell you why the terminals you bought didn't fit and since you didn't say exactly why they don't fit (too wide, too think etc.) I can't give any insight or suggestions.

    I did the work a couple years ago, and wrote this thread a year and a half ago, things may have changed with the vendor and they sent a different connector than what I got. All I can tell you is that is the vendor I used and they worked just fine. As always, your mileage may vary.

    Do you have a link for the terminals you are using?
     
  12. swisherred

    swisherred Senior Member

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    The packards wouldnt seat far enough in for the lock to clip in. they would bottom out in the connector long before the lock ever could. The terminals I received look just like the picture in the OP. I just didnt know that wasnt what I had until I stripped mine apart.

    This is the same connector mine has...except this one is for up to 12g where the ones in my car looked to be more for 16g.

    FASTIN-FASTON : 42663-2 Quick Disconnects | TE Connectivity