Hi... new to forum. Single to Dual MC conversion question.

[James Romano]

Hiya fellas. I'm totally new to this forum, just bought my '65 Ply SF and already I'm interested in changing it over to a dual MC. The car is all original and I realize this is almost a sin, but safety is more important to me that a single bucket and loosing my brakes.

Anyone do this for this particular year, or a '66 and have a good write-up regarding what is needed...parts and where to get them?

I'm also looking to change over all the lines to Stainless Steel.

Thanks again, and glad to be here.

 

[Davea Lux]

The conversion is not particularily difficult. www.inlinetube.com has most of the parts in stock. They also make the dual master cylinder distribution block for the '65-'66 Mopar applications. Contact their customer service with you needs, they will need to know the vehicle type and whether you have standard or power brakes because the length of the replacement brake lines will be different.. This conversion works well with the '67 Dual pot Mopar C-Body master cylinder.

Dave

 

[James Romano]

Thank you!

 

[luistito]

i have a complete bendix disc brake set from a 67 polara

 

[The Goose]

Dude not getting killed is NOT a sin.

Good luck with the conversion. Good brakes are the best money you’ll ever spend on your car.

 

[James Romano]

I'm actually fine with the drum brakes... the car is going to stay stock and really only for Saturday night hang outs and Sunday crusing. I just want the safety aspect of a dual MC over the single bucket "pop a line and die" routine.

Thanks for offering though... if I was going the street rod way, I'd jump on that.

 

[James Romano]

Dude not getting killed is NOT a sin.

Good luck with the conversion. Good brakes are the best money you’ll ever spend on your car.

Very well said!

 

[Sixpactogo]

I too was nervous about the single master cylinder on my 65 Sport Fury. Never gave a thought to not upgrade it. My car had power drum brakes and still does. I upgraded mine back in the mid 80's. I robbed the lines and brake tee from a 68 or so C body and bought a new MC for the car I robbed the tee and lines from. If my car would have had manual brakes, I would have stayed with them and just used a manual master cylinder. Here is a pic of mine. Do it and don't look back. If you can't find a tee I have an extra.

 

[James Romano]

OK, I am going with a Centric Dual for a 67 Fury...should bolt right
More Information for CENTRIC 13063009

As for lines... Mine are very rusty, so I am wanting to change them out...what can I use to replace them from another year that will work.. with some bending naturally.

As for the T... sounds good. Let me know the price and shipping.

Thanks,

JR

 

[Big_John]

OK, I am going with a Centric Dual for a 67 Fury...should bolt right
More Information for CENTRIC 13063009

As for lines... Mine are very rusty, so I am wanting to change them out...what can I use to replace them from another year that will work.. with some bending naturally.

As for the T... sounds good. Let me know the price and shipping.

Thanks,

JR

While all this stuff is sourced overseas or wherever, the Centric stuff is the bottom of the barrel. Look at Raybestos or something like that.

Having tried some of the Centric brake parts, I'm not impressed. I had problems with both their brake shoes and brake cylinders. I would stay away from their stuff unless it was all you can get.

 

[James Romano]

Just spoke to Right Stuff, who sent me over to a guy in Montana called Doctor Diff... this is the part he used recently to do the conversion and it works with many 65/66 C/B bodies to do the conversion easy. Althought the application list doesn't call up the Fury specifically, the Polara is there... and he mentioned it will fit the Fury

65-66 Dodge Mopar Dual Master Conversion Cylinder Block & Brake Lines Tubes OEM | eBay

Thanks for the info on the Centric stuff. I'll go with the Raybestos. I use them for all my cars anyway. Not sure why I looked at the Centric, but good to know that about quality.

JR

 

[ascari]

Did this exact swap with a Raybestos dual MC last month. Piece of cake. The part number I used is MC36221.

 

[James Romano]

What did you use for lines from the MC to the block?

I bought this block and I'm running all new lines. Mine look questionable from the outside, so I decided to replace them all with Stainless steel up front and standard steel to the rear. Car is garage kept, with moisture control... but living on Long Island kills everything metal.

1965-66 Mopar A B C Body Dual Master Conversion Distribution Block Tee Valve | eBay

Got a pic of your setup? I'd like to see it.

Thanks,

JR

 

[ascari]

James, I wasn't going to run new lines to the wheel cylinders and wanted to reuse the existing lines that looked new-ish. (Going with front discs as soon as I have some more moolah, otherwise I would have used new lines all the way.) I bought one of those blocks like the one in your link on eBay, but I didn't end up using it. Looks well made and almost stock, but I didn't use it because the holes did not line up at all with the existing brake lines. Found out after I opened the packaging... That's not an issue in your case, I suppose. The block will go on my A body instead down the road, so it wasn't a total waste.

Anyway, I ended up using the existing single-MC block for the front brakes and simply plugged the port for the rear brake. (Dorman has the correct plug.) Then I connected the rear brakes to the MC with a separate one-to-one block. (Dorman again.) Works great but doesn't look original, but neither does a dual MC! Not to mention the future discs.

For the lines from the MC I used Copper-Nickel. I find that's way easier to work with compared to stainless, especially for those all important "coils". Also, doesn't seem to work harden and become brittle the way stainless sometimes does with bending, vibration etc. and corrosion resistance is supposed to be excellent. Guess we'll find out!

 

[notsosan]

I did my 66 300 a few years ago. Mopar Action magazine had a great how too article on a C Body conversion with all the part numbers needed. It might still be in their online archives. An early dual circuit master will bolt right on to the original booster and a couple of needed adaptor fittings can be ordered from a Chrysler dealer.

 

[notsosan]

I may have scanned the article and have it on my home computer but I won’t be home for about ten days. I can PM you if I still have it if you like.

 

[James Romano]

James, I wasn't going to run new lines to the wheel cylinders and wanted to reuse the existing lines that looked new-ish. (Going with front discs as soon as I have some more moolah, otherwise I would have used new lines all the way.) I bought one of those blocks like the one in your link on eBay, but I didn't end up using it. Looks well made and almost stock, but I didn't use it because the holes did not line up at all with the existing brake lines. Found out after I opened the packaging... That's not an issue in your case, I suppose. The block will go on my A body instead down the road, so it wasn't a total waste.

Anyway, I ended up using the existing single-MC block for the front brakes and simply plugged the port for the rear brake. (Dorman has the correct plug.) Then I connected the rear brakes to the MC with a separate one-to-one block. (Dorman again.) Works great but doesn't look original, but neither does a dual MC! Not to mention the future discs.

For the lines from the MC I used Copper-Nickel. I find that's way easier to work with compared to stainless, especially for those all important "coils". Also, doesn't seem to work harden and become brittle the way stainless sometimes does with bending, vibration etc. and corrosion resistance is supposed to be excellent. Guess we'll find out!

Thanks for the info! More or less, if all else fails, I'll be doing the same. Once I get the MC and block, I'm going to mock it up, use a coat hanger for a template and buy some prefabbed NAPA line provided they have the correct fittings on each end, then bend it to what I need. If I can't get the lines from NAPA, there is a shop I know that will make them for me for a cost. I had to change my lines, they look pretty bad in the engine bay, so it was justified. Was thinking of going disc as well.. but not anytime in the near future.

My over-all goal is that I'd like this to look as factory as possible as I intend to enter the car in local shows AND drive it as well... so I want the added safety there. Keeping things clean and neat will reduce points for not being original.

She was a trophy winner for the previous owner, so I want to keep her in contention.. LOL.

JR

 

[James Romano]

I may have scanned the article and have it on my home computer but I won’t be home for about ten days. I can PM you if I still have it if you like.

Sure! I don't plan on doing this until the winter anyway. Thanks!!

 

[ascari]

The MC I used is supposed to go on a -67 onward C-body. Direct bolt on. If I can find a neater solution for the adapter blocks I might go that route, so if you find one that looks stock please let me know.

 

[James Romano]

The MC I used is supposed to go on a -67 onward C-body. Direct bolt on. If I can find a neater solution for the adapter blocks I might go that route, so if you find one that looks stock please let me know.

MC Raybestoes MC36221 came today from Rockauto and looks nothing like the pic... Lol. It's the screw down top, but that's fine as it's supposed to be for that era anyway.

Also, my lines from Right Stuff showed up today.

The MC to block line has the wrong fitting for the MC side... Too small. So it looks like these will be custom made. Once the block shows up next week, I can start looking into the fittings and getting it mocked up. I can see changing the lines AND doing the single to dual conversation is raising some unexpected challenges, but I'll press on and get it done. We have a great old skool Auto parts place in Bay Shore, Long Island called Mars. They have it all and can make it for me if NAPA doesn't have what I need.

JR