Holy Rust!
- Thread starter GrandpasDream
- Start date
cm23uoc
Old Man with a Hat
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2011
- Messages
- 8,369
- Reaction score
- 3,443
If you want to Keep it forever as part of the Family then do it or have it done correctly with new metal, anything else is cutting Corners that you will regret in years to come.
Taking out the Windows, engine Overhaull and such already done is too much time, Money and Spirit invested already if I were in your place to Resort to such patch ups not even mentioning structural integrity of such a Swiss cheese roof.
Otherwise be prepared to start again in the near future.
Taking out the Windows, engine Overhaull and such already done is too much time, Money and Spirit invested already if I were in your place to Resort to such patch ups not even mentioning structural integrity of such a Swiss cheese roof.
Otherwise be prepared to start again in the near future.
Last edited:
saylor
Senior Member
these guys are old and feeble
how quickly they forget
how quickly they forget
saylor
Senior Member
so thats what i started with. id trade you.
i sanded all the rust out that i could get to without unriveting the metal pieces previously added.
used the por PUTTY to build my straight edges around the window channel, etc, and to fill void, etc.
used the por GOOP in the tube to fill after that, the seams, etc
then i taped off in vinyl roof pattern ,and bedlinered the whole thing
i sanded all the rust out that i could get to without unriveting the metal pieces previously added.
used the por PUTTY to build my straight edges around the window channel, etc, and to fill void, etc.
used the por GOOP in the tube to fill after that, the seams, etc
then i taped off in vinyl roof pattern ,and bedlinered the whole thing
saylor
Senior Member
here is a different pic
saylor
Senior Member
its not a show winner
but its an attention getter
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2010
- Messages
- 27,944
- Reaction score
- 26,885
Saylor you still need a new roof.
Samplingman
Old Man with a Hat
Carmine
Old Man with a Hat
I think the "new roof" scenario is a bit much to keep this car on the road. At the same time I'm a fan of structural integrity. Let's assume the headliner is removed? Good, then remove the rest of the interior (carpet/seats at the least).
Find someone that knows how to weld, even if he/she (lol) is just agricultural grade (plows, etc.) Get some strips of heavy sheetmetal in strips just wide enough to make it between the headliner bows. Cut the metal strips long enough that fits between the left & right roof rails only when under a great deal of tension (somewhat like a headliner bow). Have your welder run a bead at each left/right rail, and in spots wherever it contacts the old sheetmetal panel.
If it's done correctly this would be stronger than what you had originally. The headliner and pad will cover up this butchery on the underside. Assuming you've done all you can to remove/convert/burn-at-stake any existing rust, give it all a coat of Rust-Bullet (or whatever in in fashion this year). Apply some kitty-hair fiberglass on the lumpy mess, then bondo. Get it reasonably smooth. Use a good quality paint and let it outgas for a while. Install your top.
You'd probably be in for $50 worth of metal and $150 for the welding labor. This is a heirloom, not a rare car where you'll ever be able to see a return on investment. This solution is ethical and only your hairdresser would know for sure assuming some level of skill by your welder and your ability to apply/sand bondo.
Find someone that knows how to weld, even if he/she (lol) is just agricultural grade (plows, etc.) Get some strips of heavy sheetmetal in strips just wide enough to make it between the headliner bows. Cut the metal strips long enough that fits between the left & right roof rails only when under a great deal of tension (somewhat like a headliner bow). Have your welder run a bead at each left/right rail, and in spots wherever it contacts the old sheetmetal panel.
If it's done correctly this would be stronger than what you had originally. The headliner and pad will cover up this butchery on the underside. Assuming you've done all you can to remove/convert/burn-at-stake any existing rust, give it all a coat of Rust-Bullet (or whatever in in fashion this year). Apply some kitty-hair fiberglass on the lumpy mess, then bondo. Get it reasonably smooth. Use a good quality paint and let it outgas for a while. Install your top.
You'd probably be in for $50 worth of metal and $150 for the welding labor. This is a heirloom, not a rare car where you'll ever be able to see a return on investment. This solution is ethical and only your hairdresser would know for sure assuming some level of skill by your welder and your ability to apply/sand bondo.
GJS
Senior Member
Not that I'm not going to have massive issues in my rear window channel but this thread is making me very thankful I found a two tone car as opposed to a vinyl car.
I personally wouldn't be able to resist replacing the skin. Not that it wouldn't be expensive and time consuming it's just that as an heirloom, I'd have an idea of how the person it is honoring would want to see it. In that way, money be damned.
I don't know, man. Good luck with whatever you wind up doing.
I personally wouldn't be able to resist replacing the skin. Not that it wouldn't be expensive and time consuming it's just that as an heirloom, I'd have an idea of how the person it is honoring would want to see it. In that way, money be damned.
I don't know, man. Good luck with whatever you wind up doing.
hanks71440
Well-Known Member
Saylor you still need a new roof.
IMHO....cut the roof and weld and replace with a donor. Or......it will take some work but make it a vert. Have seen it done.
bluefury361
Old Man with a Hat
[QUOTE="GrandpasDream, this is tough without knowing how to weld is tougher![/QUOTE]
Well, you can hire it out. Save some money by preparing the car yourself, (remove interior parts and headliner).
OR........ Enroll in welding class at a local trade school. Learn something and fix your car at the same time.
Well, you can hire it out. Save some money by preparing the car yourself, (remove interior parts and headliner).
OR........ Enroll in welding class at a local trade school. Learn something and fix your car at the same time.
Fratzog
Old Man with a Hat
Relatively inexpensive tool to easily weld sheet metal that even someone technically challenged as me can use. Just a suggestion.
http://www.eastwood.com/images/pdf/19031Q.pdf
http://www.eastwood.com/images/pdf/19031Q.pdf
saylor
Senior Member
I cannot lie - I did buy a whole nother car because of this . . .
GrandpasDream
Member
Thanks for this. Does anyone know the thickness of the sheet metal in the roofs of these? I'm leaning towards patching with clean, new metal.
tbm3fan
Old Man with a Hat
Being somewhat structural you could go with 18 gauge which is harder to form into shapes but is easier to weld. Since the pieces are mostly flat it shouldn't be that hard. 22 gauge would be too thin for a roof, I personally would never use that gauge, and butt welding would be tough. You might find some 20 gauge on your car if you mic around different panels. Ford used 19 gauge throughout most of their cars in the 60s. I have a few flat patches on my Park Lane and I will use 18 gauge I have.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
That's a nifty lil thing. Looks like something I could leave at my bench for a fast tack. Does it realy work?
Back when Ben Hur subscribed to "Hot Chariots" magazine, there was a ad for one of those on the back page.
GJS
Senior Member
Similar threads
