Horn not working, steering shaft not grounded.

Padre4art

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Hi, needing a little help with my 1964 Chrysler Newport.

The horn is not working.

I discovered the steering shaft is not grounded.

If I run a jumper from a good ground to the nut securing the steering wheel, the horn works beautifully.

I cannot figure out how to ground the shaft.

There is already a ground strap attached to some housing around the steering shaft on the engine side of the firewall, but that ground does not carry through to the chef itself.

Help!

Thanks, Art
 
I assume your steering shaft uses the same setup as my 60 Dart. I too lost my horn ground and the rubber boot that goes between the shaft and sector was worn out and the copper strip that created the ground was broken. I don't have any pictures of my fix but when I had it apart to replace the rubber boot. I drilled and tapped a 10-32 hole in the steering shaft and also the sector slotted bushing. I then made a Jumper with a short piece of 12 gauge wire and a couple of lug terminals to get my ground to carry through. I put a red dot on the pictures where I drilled and tapped the 10-32 holes. Here are a couple pics of where I drilled the holes to add the jumper wire. It was the only way I could see to get the ground completed since the copper strip was broken. You can see the copper strip in pic #2.
It is a PIA to do it and you may as well replace that rubber boot as it is likely worn out causing more play in your steering wheel.

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Thank you, looks like a good fix!

The last car I had this grounding problem with was a 1966 Chevrolet, and I had to place a jumper wire across the rag joint. I’m not so familiar with the Chrysler so I have a few questions:

Did you have to take the steering column out of the car too accomplish this fix?

Where was this copper strip positioned?

Where do you find a new boot for the bottom of the steering axle?

Signed,

Confused!
(Art)
 
The column ground may be missing or broken (assuming the 64 was the same as 67)
The other end goes under the bracket to dash bolt (you can see the rust ring on the left white plastic bushing)
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Alan
 
The rubber part you need is Pn: 1822668. I bought mine here.https://www.ebay.com/itm/183501977821?
It is called a Power steering gear tube insulator. It has been a few years since I did my car but, Yes, You have to remove the steering column. You have to loosen the column clamp from the steering sector under the hood. Remove the steering wheel and turn signal assembly. Remove the snap ring that holds the shaft to the column. Drop the column mounting from the dash and pull the housing off of the shaft to get access to the bottom of the shaft. Tap out the roll pin to get it apart. I removed the front seat to get more room to work. May have to remove the brake pedal. I don't think I did but it may be easier. I do remember it being a struggle because of my age. A young agile guy would have a better chance at it. I think the copper strap was on the outside of the rubber insulator but mine was broken and distorted so it was junk. I don't think new ones are available. Yours is more than likely in the same condition. It was a piss poor design IMO.
I remember I was able to drill and tap the collar with the sector in place and drilled and tapped the shaft on my bench. When I put it back together, I remember tying the shaft up to the dash and using a C clamp to push the roll pin back in place and then attached my jumper wire before sliding the column housing back over the shaft. Here are a couple more pics. I didn't take a picture of the jumper wire I put on but should have. Anyway. Good luck.
Oh, By the way......Don't forget to mark the shaft so you don't put it back in 180 degrees out or your steering wheel will end up 180 out as well since they are clocked.

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The column ground may be missing or broken (assuming the 64 was the same as 67)
The other end goes under the bracket to dash bolt (you can see the rust ring on the left white plastic bushing)
View attachment 717126


Alan
Columns with this type of column housing to dash frame jumper also depended on a staple in the rubber upper shaft bearing insulator for completing the horn relay circuit from the column housing to the shaft/steering wheel.
steering bearing.jpg
 
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Columns with this type of column housing to dash frame jumper also depended on a staple in the rubber upper shaft bearing insulator for completing the horn relay circuit from the column housing to the shaft/steering wheel.
View attachment 717134
1959-1964 used the copper strip shown in the 2nd picture in post #2 for the horn ground. Both methods are pretty chinzy from a company that usually did a good job of engineering.
 
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I just made a new copper strip out of some shim stock worked fine. At the same time installed a firm feel box. in a 64 880
 
Does your car have the rubber biscuit at the bottom near the steering box - where the column exits the passenger compartment?

There is usually a wire or a spring that connects the chassis to the column over that rubber part which naturally acts as an insulator. To permit it to turn with the column, it is fastened on to the biscuit's fasteners on both sides. If that biscuit (or rag joint, coupler etc.) was replaced, often the wire or spring gets trashed or forgotten about, and then the horn doesn't work.
 
Does your car have the rubber biscuit at the bottom near the steering box - where the column exits the passenger compartment?

There is usually a wire or a spring that connects the chassis to the column over that rubber part which naturally acts as an insulator. To permit it to turn with the column, it is fastened on to the biscuit's fasteners on both sides. If that biscuit (or rag joint, coupler etc.) was replaced, often the wire or spring gets trashed or forgotten about, and then the horn doesn't work.
I don't think they got the biscuit until 65.
 
Was there a coupler, and was there some sort of insulator within the coupler perhaps that required a wire or spring thingy complete the horn circuit?
 
Was there a coupler, and was there some sort of insulator within the coupler perhaps that required a wire or spring thingy complete the horn circuit?
Without the column being grounded the horn will not work, all the horn switch does is connect the "horn" wire to ground.


Alan
 
Was there a coupler, and was there some sort of insulator within the coupler perhaps that required a wire or spring thingy complete the horn circuit?
Check out post #2. That is the system used from around 57-64. The copper strap was used to bridge the ground from sector to shaft. POS but it worked for a long time.
 
Does your car have the rubber biscuit at the bottom near the steering box - where the column exits the passenger compartment?

There is usually a wire or a spring that connects the chassis to the column over that rubber part which naturally acts as an insulator. To permit it to turn with the column, it is fastened on to the biscuit's fasteners on both sides. If that biscuit (or rag joint, coupler etc.) was replaced, often the wire or spring gets trashed or forgotten about, and then the horn doesn't work.
This does not have a rubber biscuit, the steering shaft is solid and connects to the steering box like a fork and blade and has a cotter pin. It has a u-shaped rubber insulator with a copper strip that contacts the top of the steering box which provides the ground for the horn.
 
SUCCESS! (Partial)

I have gotten the steering shaft grounded, and now the horn works in SOME steering wheel positions. If I jumper the black wire on the horn switch to the corresponding terminal on the horn relay, the horn works in all positions.

Is there a slip ring in the column that needs cleaning or adjusting?

How to?

Thanks for all your ideas; extremely helpful!

Art

IMG_0017.jpeg
 
Cant speak to all years, but my 66 has the slip ring that has a roller on the turn signal switch for this connection. I do like a bit of my ubiquitous electrical grease on both.
 
SUCCESS! (Partial)

I have gotten the steering shaft grounded, and now the horn works in SOME steering wheel positions. If I jumper the black wire on the horn switch to the corresponding terminal on the horn relay, the horn works in all positions.

Is there a slip ring in the column that needs cleaning or adjusting?

How to?

Thanks for all your ideas; extremely helpful!

Art

View attachment 717924
Here's a video for you to watch. Maybe it will help.

 
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