1. LocuMob

    LocuMob Senior Member

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    Some water got in the 413 I picked up to use as a set up engine for my Dart. The crappy part about having a tiny garage, full storage and a host needing a fluid swap.

    The back story, the engine was built, assembly lube used judiciously, break in oil with zinc additive, started and ran for a few minutes "to see how it sounded" then shut off. That was 3 years ago. I got it not too long ago and had it covered in the back if my truck. It was dry up til last week. Went to get the engine out as I had fixed the hoist. I noticed a small tear and knew I was going to see water when I dumped the oil. Yep, but it looked like when coolant was in the oil, that lighter brown crap. I figure it might be that break in oil, or assembly lube. Not sure, that was the least of my concerns. Well today is 2 days later and my friend had an engine stand freed up so.i borrowed it. I took the oil pan off and it wasn't as bad as I thought it might be, hut one rod is brown as my last name is. Everything else looks pretty good considering there was at least 1 & 1/2 gallons of water, yep! There is only very slight surface rust on the counterweights. Input some oil back down the valley when I dumped the old crap. Definitely keeping it "wet" so it doesn't flash rust. Gotta sleep some before work, but aside from dumping oil down the valley and trying to get all I can wet with oil, should I do anything else? I might just go crazy this weekend and try to stuff this pig in the car to get it started if it's not toast.

    I did turn the engine over and didn't notice any drag like with a rusty crank, but it was just after the oil was drained. It felt nice and tight like when I first picked it up, turns over freely, but firmly until the cylinder pressure bleeds off.

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  2. GJS

    GJS Senior Member

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    I don't know man, I'm usually a very paranoid person about stuff like this but .. if that thing only ran a few minutes and was assembled with a ton of assembly lube, that lube is still protecting you bearing surfaces, timing set and whatever else it was used on. Getting as much of the contaminated oil out is paramount BUT, if you keep it from flash rusting (which I doubt it will if you've dumped a bunch o erl in there) I'd put it back together, drop it in the car, fill it with oil, prime the hell out of it and fire it.
     
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  3. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Well-Known Member

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    I would suggest pulling the rod cap from the one rod that is discolored. That type of discoloration could also have been from an overheated bearing. Better to check it than be sorry later.

    Davae
     
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  4. traintech55

    traintech55 Senior Member

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    I totally agree Dave, Look at the rod and cap if all looks good, fill it with new oil and prime the heck out of it. Them change the oil and filter. Oil is cheep, a rebuild on a new engine is not.
     
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  5. LocuMob

    LocuMob Senior Member

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    A rust color from overheating? I've seem the rainbow effect of heat when the oil pump fails.
     
  6. GJS

    GJS Senior Member

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    Good point, guys. I Kinda overlooked the brown rod (giggity).
     
  7. traintech55

    traintech55 Senior Member

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    Scott, No not rust colored from overheating, but to make sure their was no water damage on the rod and bearing at the crank.
     
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  8. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Well-Known Member

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    Still a bit odd that only one rod was rust colored, wondered if that was a new replacement? Still best to check it. Have seen the rust color on engines that have "blown" Metal has all the oil burned off due to heating and then when a rod makes an inspection hole in a water jacket someplace, flash rusting follows.

    Dave
     
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  9. 70bigblockdodge

    70bigblockdodge Old Man with a Hat

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    That rusty rod is suspect, I doubt it's anything but I would have a look.
     
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  10. 65sporty

    65sporty Senior Member

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    Like all the other guy's have said, check the rod, clean out all the old oil/water mix, fresh oil & filter, prelube, install and light it off.
     
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  11. pomonamissel

    pomonamissel Senior Member

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    no rust there bud , plastic gauge the bearings to know were its at . peel it , rings n bearings polish the crank with fine emory cloth (400-600) and oil . clean n assemble , plastic gauge check the bearings clearances , lose will rpm . and rods turn bluish brown to dark blue from no oiling . that one rod looks like it was primed coated paint for oil run off . guys would do the whole inside of their blocks to help the oil run back to the pan faster . but it doesn't get a chance to carry the heat from the motor with it coated , would be better off with a crank wiper to break the oil rope that wraps the crank n rods during rpm operation . and polishing all that move mass can't hurt either . polished connecting rods and crank on all surfaces make the oil leave it easier taking the heat with it , all home stuff , you can do it a shed . or like my bud did as a kid . used knife stones down to honing clay to polish his crank n rods in his living room watching gilligin's inland ect ..... he buzz'd that thing 8k with good pistons and heads , and a monster cam gear , never had an bearing or rod issue with it . turn a all steel 63 fury in the 10's with one 850cfm holley on it . that was a budget build too .
     
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  12. max1196

    max1196 Member

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    The con rod that has the different colour to it (rod # 7) is actually a copper coating applied to it during the sizing of the journal procedure. If the rod is not within size tolerances it is dipped in copper and resizing attempted again. Nothing wrong with it just looks odd. I encounter this often and can show pictures if interested . Anyway, do the flush and spin just like what everyone said above.
     
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  13. pomonamissel

    pomonamissel Senior Member

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    just saying its still good for use , or with a little work and short funds it could be a winner . how are the heads ?
     
  14. LocuMob

    LocuMob Senior Member

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    Thanks for the responses. I'll check the rod in the morning after work, think I know where my Plasti-gauge is.
     
  15. pomonamissel

    pomonamissel Senior Member

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    and was the b day happy ?
     
  16. LocuMob

    LocuMob Senior Member

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    They are 516 castings, allegedly went through when the engine was built. I was planning on swapping the cam to a purple shaft .484 I have new with lifters sitting on the shelf, I don't think the one he installed will last very long.
     
  17. LocuMob

    LocuMob Senior Member

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    If I can't get it in the car very soon, what should I do for storage over the winter, if anything special?
     
  18. pomonamissel

    pomonamissel Senior Member

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    just seal it up , with the heads n intake and tin . no rockers will seal the cylinders with the valves closed . no gaskets needed just coat the mating surfaces with axle grease like it was a peanut butter sandwich . put a carb plate on the intake , gasket or grease . and store it in some building that has is weather tight and no creak running under it . i know it really rains in the mountains .
     
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  19. GJS

    GJS Senior Member

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    Thats a great bit of info! I was thinking that the uniformity of color made little sense as rust .. too that there was nothing on the rod next to it.

    Cool!
     
  20. 1978 NYB

    1978 NYB Old Man with a Hat

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    I would spray Marvel Mystery Oil or a fogger oil in the cylinders through the spark plug holes. Also any other areas like the intake manifold if it is mounted. I would also spray the bottom end before putting the pan on.
     
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