how hard is it....

[Knebel]

to get the shaft and rubber out of the bushing of the lower control arm and get a new firm feel urethane bushing with their new shaft back in when just sliding the control arm and torsion bar back and working on it "under the car"? getting the bushing in does not seem like a big issue (i got a big c clamp balljoint press for stuff like that). But how tight is this all together?

also, how would you get the rubber out of the upper control arm bushings when just unbolting the controlarm from the frame? Maybe with a pick and then slowly pull it piece by piece? Asking since i am replacing the rubber for some firmer material and it requires to keep the metal of the original bushings

Fire isnt an option here. Needs to be "quick, clean and effective" since I am bound to be working in a parkinglot with everyone staring at me.

 

['69FuryIIIConvertible]

You'll need a press to get the bushing out. Period. I nearly folded a 10 ton in on its self doing mine..

 

[Knebel]

The outer Metal of the lca bushing has to be reused and can stay in the LCA when using firm feels urethane bushing.

 

[mr. fix it]

it looks a bit late for that...

 

[Knebel]

???? too late for what? my car is still assembled.

 

[Knebel]

Im asking if the LCA Bushings inner rubber comes out fairly easy when deteriorated. and how tight is the shaft in said bushing? "tap with a hammer" tight or rather "the hulk needs to hulksmash the shaft into the rubber" tight?

 

[commando1]

1. Control arms have to be removed
2. You have to remove the bushing and sleeve assembly with Nick's 20 ton press.
3. You have to press in a new bushing sleeve assembly with Nick's 20 ton press.

The above means it's a ball bustah.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

I have done the uppers with a large vise and spacers. The lowers are a bear, easiest one I ever did was on my Charger I pulled the shaft out by hand.

 

[mr. fix it]

???? too late for what? my car is still assembled.

Oh ok, I understand better now.
I was referring to the photo of the arms with the bushings removed which I thought were yours...
These ones are chewed up pretty badly having been removed.

 

[detmatt]

Im asking if the LCA Bushings inner rubber comes out fairly easy when deteriorated. and how tight is the shaft in said bushing? "tap with a hammer" tight or rather "the hulk needs to hulksmash the shaft into the rubber" tight?

Sorry knebel, I’ve changed all of my control arm bushings and I couldn’t tell you how hard it’ll be for you to just replace the rubber with poly. I will be interested to know your results though both in handling and if they are squeaky.

 

[LocuMob]

I had one bushings come out with the pivot, and left the shell intact. The other side, the rubber wouldn't break free. I'd think heat, but you said that's not an option, so a press looks like the option.

 

[Knebel]

yeah. I dont have to get the sleeve out, just the rubber. I am not too concerned about the UCA... just wondering the process about the lower arms, getting the pivot and rubber out and then the new pivot and poly in

 

[Knebel]

Thats what will go into the upper control arms. all the metal hardware has to be reused. Same exists for the lower ones.

Btw, anyone know the diameter of the upper control arm cam bolts? I was just gonna make some new sleeves for it!

 

[Knebel]

Well, they fit! but oh boy, getting the inner sleeve and the rubber out of the old bushings with the contol arm just unhooked from the frame is a *****! I will most definitely take the UCA out for the other side. Once set up with the balljoint press, its easy to push the inner sleeve out and just use a screwdriver to pop out the rubber.

 

[Knebel]

hmmmm so interesting, the bushings on the other side are vulcanized onto the sleeves. the other ones just popped out!? How weird is that, they are the same Moog parts.

 

[Knebel]

Just got done getting all the rubber cleaned off from the metal parts and installed the Poly insert. It really wasnt that difficult, I just wish I they could have been submerged in some sort of solvent that disintegrates the rubber...

 

[CBODY67]

(What hand cleaner do you use???)

I suspect that all of the bushiness are "vulcanized" to their metal cases, just that your were not uniformly vulcanized when built. The rubber twists between the two casings, which is why you don't do final tightening of the mounting bolts until the car is sitting at ride height, lest the rubber get too stressed in one direction upon installation, which can cause a lack of durability with age.

CBODY67

 

[1970cat]

tightening at ride height also helps eliminate squeaks from twisted rubber bushings.

 

[Knebel]

What hand cleaner??? I just make homemade burgerpatries after...kneading ground beef gets everything clean and off your hands .

No seriously, dishsoap!? Why?


Btw I have no increased noise or squeaking, so far they do fine. I have some softer poly on the strutrods too. The frontend seems a little tighter at least.

 

[CBODY67]

What hand cleaner??? I just make homemade burgerpatries after...kneading ground beef gets everything clean and off your hands .

No seriously, dishsoap!? Why?

I just suspected more "visible ground-in rubber grit" in your fingerprints and such. I discovered a good bit ago that using PanamaJack sun tan oil to get grease off of my hands worked better than many of the lauded handcleaners I'd used. Works great and keeps things nice and soft. "0 SPF", usually. Lots of natural oils, just like your ground beef patties.

Glad everything on the front end of the car worked out well for you.

CBODY67