How to Choose 440

[polara71]

Not enough torque

 

[67-Fury]

In a A body they are a very potent combination.

 

[polara71]

In a A body they are a very potent combination.

sure they are, put in a C body and things are different. Ive had one in a C , a screamer it was but not good enough. Made a lot of noise though

 

[MN72Fury]

Thanks for the information - I really want to make a strong car to "drive the hell out of" hence my post on 9 1/4 rear end v 8 3/4, 3.23 v 3.55 gears and the best 440s to use. Yes, I know I will have many times the value of the car spent before done. I am sixteen again in this car (unless I look down or in the mirrors).

Would sell to Stan but it took me years to find a body without a lot of rust

I just received the new police interceptor rims and dropped them off to be painted to match. (here is car last week) The car was a few shades darker than the Sherwood Green it came with from the factory - will use the dog dish caps with the holes

The information from this listserv has been very helpful - THANK YOU TO EVERYONE!!

Someone told me in person at a show to change the K member if I switch to 440 v new mounts? any thoughts?

Hard crowd to please here! My 2¢:

Take the 360/727A out, put in the corner of your garage, and build a 440/727B to what you want (mid to high 400hp?) and drive the he'll out of it. You can build a motor for less than 5k and still get what you want. 440Source, Edelbrock, the new Trickflow heads, if they're out, all are great choices for a mild build and as said before cost about the same as porting old iron heads. If you can get a 727 that was behind a 440 you have better stronger internal parts, saving money to start.

If you ever want to sell the car to Stan, swap the old drivetrain back in and sell me your built 440!

On a side note, I'd love to see your car parked next to maro's sedan at Mopars in the Park next year. He's planning on swapping in a 440 also.

 

[MN72Fury]

Great photos Snotty and Polara71 !!

Thanks

 

[celticwarlock]

A near-stock 440 with a decent manifold, upgraded ignition, factory heads and manifolds, and a great exhaust system will bake the tires, even with numerically low gears ( though 3.23's or gears in that range will sure help). It doesn't take much. It is almost always less expensive to buy the motor built, as most of the deals you'll find result from someone else upgrading or changing their car entirely. A trans should not be tough to locate, and an 8 3/4 will take significant punishment before it quits on you. A 9 1/4 would be nice, but probably is not absolutely necessary. There is a BUNCH of good engine block-related info. on the 440 Source site, and if I recall, they said that the early 400's were particularly beefy, as were the LATER 440's (though it was mentioned earlier in the thread that they may be prone to core shift). In the end, it will take WAY less than the 600 HP these blocks can withstand to bake the tires off, so the year of the block may not matter very much. Even if you are getting only around 400 HP to the rear wheels, that will be plenty for doing ample burn-outs.

 

[67-Fury]

That 72 is looking good, Even in Primer.

 

[saylor]

listserv??

listserv!

havent seen that name thrown around for a while...

you musta lived thru the golden age of the internets