How to rebuild Chrysler Power Window motor clutch assembly

Do you have a link or contact info for the switch repair?
 
Does the same process apply for a headlite door motor?
No... But I'll tell you, they are pretty simple to fix. From everything I've read, the main problem is the lower bearing in the motor gets dry and needs to be greased.

The other issue involves the cam which is available (somewhere) and the little contact switches that turn it off and on.

I took a motor apart that was rebuilt by a guy that folks on the Charger site recommend.... I won't say who publicly. I would never send one there. It was full of sand from sand blasting the motor. Absolute crap. No excuse.
 
When it gets below approx 35 degrees it does not activate until I gently wrap on the motor with a hammer or like device.
 
When it gets below approx 35 degrees it does not activate until I gently wrap on the motor with a hammer or like device.
Yep, that sounds like the lower bushing is dry.

You might be able to pull the motor off, take the thumb wheel off the bottom and see if you can get some oil in it with the motor inverted.

If you have to, taking it apart is no big deal. You just have to be a little careful.... But I'll bet some oil squirted around the bottom bushing will soak in enough to make a big difference.
 
Since I don't have a lathe at my disposal anymore, I started looking around and found these: (12) Ford Lincoln and Mercury Power Window Motor Gear Delrin REBUILD Bushing Kit

I emailed the seller and the dimensions look right to me, so I ordered a set. I think Delrin is a great material for these, although as said, possibly overkill.

I'll let everyone know if these work.

Got them today. Perfect fit!

So... that means the Fords used the same rollers.

These were $6.99 plus shipping for 12 delrin rollers. Nice quality and cheap enough.

(12) Ford Lincoln and Mercury Power Window Motor Gear Delrin REBUILD Bushing Kit


 
Well I owe Mr C a big thank you today. Rebuilt my D/S power window motor using the steel nut system and it worked perfectly. The window motor is humming along nicely and for the first time since I've owned it the driver's window isn't held up by wood wedges!! Love this forum! Next up brake booster then selector shaft seal. Road worthy in time for Critters unveiling? MB......
 
Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread. I finished rebuilding my first power window motor with help from this thread. I purchased a ten foot length of Acetal, equivalent of delrin, 1/2 inch or 12.7 mm, lathed down to 12mm and cut to 10.5mm long. Couple spoons of Lucas red and tacky and she is working better than ever. Checked the carbon brushes they were good. Love the simplicity of these old cars. Also used the drill hole technique. Hole was present in geared side, matched up with other side

WP_20160615_19_33_40_Pro.jpg
 
Have to say of all the things i have learned from this forum this was the most interesting and cheapest fix so far! Thanks FCBO!
 
Also, 1971 New Yorker coupe, top (longer track) back (closer to door latch) nylon slider was the only one of three that was greased. The one forward of it and below it were perfectly dry, unlike any of the others I have encountered,(all greased) any thoughts?
 
Have to say of all the things i have learned from this forum this was the most interesting and cheapest fix so far! Thanks FCBO![/QUOTE. I second that, very simple, yet incredibly satisfying results, Just remember those important warnings, that spring does not mess around.
 
Damn it! Both of the front windows don't work correctly on the NYB. The front left definitely has the puck problem and the right front will probably work with a smack with a hammer. I did the steel nut repair on both rear windows and they work great. I have one day off until Carlisle and I have to replace the idler arm, do an oil change and other maintenance to get ready for the show. I'll have to wait until after Carlisle to fix the windows. Thank God the A/C works. Those dang door panels can't take much more on and off episodes....I'll wait until fall and bulletproof the repairs on the front windows once and for all.
 
Back
Top