How to Rejuvenate Electrical Connectors?

Henrius

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Started my most hated restoration task today on my 1972 Newport- disassembling the dash to repair and make modifications.

First thing I noticed was cracked connectors on circuits drawing a lot of current- headlight switch and A/C compressor clutch switch, to name a couple.

Can any of these connectors, male and/or female, be bought new and spliced in? If so where?

When one cannot find a new connector, do you just flow expoxy in the missing parts to hold the terminals together in alignment? What other fixes are there?
 
All of the connectors are able to be disassembled - the brass terminals can be removed with a small jeweler's flathead, inserted down into the connector to push down the small tab. Then the terminal slides out of the connector. Replace or wire brush them, reset the tab and reinsert.
 
Started my most hated restoration task today on my 1972 Newport- disassembling the dash to repair and make modifications.

First thing I noticed was cracked connectors on circuits drawing a lot of current- headlight switch and A/C compressor clutch switch, to name a couple.

Can any of these connectors, male and/or female, be bought new and spliced in? If so where?

When one cannot find a new connector, do you just flow expoxy in the missing parts to hold the terminals together in alignment? What other fixes are there?
Regarding the connector housing, I have no clue as to if replacements exist or not. As others have posted, the contacts are removable and can be cleaned up or replaced.
This stuff is supposed to do a good job:
D965122F-B40C-40E8-ACAC-59CDC9BE7239.jpeg
 
I know the terminals can be removed from the plasitic housing and reattached, but it makes it easier to get positions mixed up that way.

Only if you don't pay attention to detail, failure to make documentation of what color wire goes where? Just take your time and pay attention, you got this!
 
Started my most hated restoration task today on my 1972 Newport- disassembling the dash to repair and make modifications.
I would be very interested in what you do, and pics would be great in case I ever need to do the same thing for one of my NYBs.
 
Here is the worst connector, which plugs into the back of the heater/AC control. My guess is it carried the current to the compressor clutch.

If I cannot get new repro connectors, I guess I will clean the oxidation off the old one and fill in the missing parts of the connector with epoxy, to prevent mixing up the leads. Man, would I like to find a catalog of repros of old car electrtical connectors.

IMGP5140.JPG
 
The only reason that would occur is because something is drawing way more current than it should - and AFAIK, the compressor does not connect to the control with a 3 pin connector, only a 1 wire. The 3 pin goes to the blower motor resistor, and if your heater motor is bad, that would cause what you've shown us in your photo.
 
This is where a factory shop manual does come in handy regarding wiring diagrams.
You can also download or buy color wiring diagrams of the www.
I have done a lot of re-wiring over the past 15 years.
My preference is remove the entire dash harness out of the car,lay it out,inspect for damage and repair accordingly.
Using a multimeter,I test EVERY wire and switch for continuity.If it works out of the car it should work in the car also.
I solder any splices and use shrink tube.
As Tom mentioned you can get the correct ends and connectors.
The deoxit does work too!
I do use diaelectric grease on connectors,some may disagree but depending on thee climate or environment the car lives in.
Since the dash is opend up,install an electronic volt limiter for the guages.
Now is a good time to lube any vent or HVAC cables that are accessible with dash outa the way.
A re-wrap of the harness with fresh tape is the finishing touch.
Hope this helpps and good luck!!
james charger project 003.JPG
340Demon 001.JPG
limestone city mopars 007.JPG
 
This is where a factory shop manual does come in handy regarding wiring diagrams.
You can also download or buy color wiring diagrams of the www.
I have done a lot of re-wiring over the past 15 years.
My preference is remove the entire dash harness out of the car,lay it out,inspect for damage and repair accordingly.
Using a multimeter,I test EVERY wire and switch for continuity.If it works out of the car it should work in the car also.
I solder any splices and use shrink tube.
As Tom mentioned you can get the correct ends and connectors.
The deoxit does work too!
I do use diaelectric grease on connectors,some may disagree but depending on thee climate or environment the car lives in.
Since the dash is opend up,install an electronic volt limiter for the guages.
Now is a good time to lube any vent or HVAC cables that are accessible with dash outa the way.
A re-wrap of the harness with fresh tape is the finishing touch.
Hope this helpps and good luck!!
View attachment 435669 View attachment 435670 View attachment 435672

This is a mamoth task. Did not know anyone went this far with a restoration. So impressive you can do this. Do you want any extra jobs for pay?

What do you do with plastic terminals that have deteriorated beyond repair?

I have the wiring diagrams diagrams with the factory manuals. Tracing where everything goes is no picnic.

Found an outfit that adds gauges to a panel (oil pressure is one I want) and makes it look original. May have them do this as well.

Again, my hats off to you for being so thorough. Found an outfit that overhauls plenum boxes so I might take that out as well.
 
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