My new 66 fury was occasionally steering to the left during starts....I didn't give it much thought. Then, I ran across a chrysler tech video on the YT. Explained how to adjust the spool valve, which I did, and then voila, it now turns to the right. So, I just moved it again a smidge. Interesting how sensitive this adjustment seems to be. I used a carbide scratch pen to mark the valve this time, to see how far it goes. We will see. Interesting.
Hydraulic steering centering adjustment
- Thread starter 66furys
- Start date
Don't hang onto the wheel when you start the car after adjusting the valve. It can spin hard and fast. Possible wrist breaker.
Interesting point for me. I have ripped the dash and wiring out, so start him by shorting the relay under hood. But, can watch the steering go bonkers, but no hands at this point. Have done a second adjust, and will see how it goes. Thanks
bronze turbine
Active Member
My dad had a '76 Ford van. It had no power steering. He used to swear and curse every time he had to parallel park it. So, he had his mechanic install power steering. The first time I started it up, the steering wheel started spinning REALLY fast without me even touching it. Probably could've broken my wrist or arm if I had gotten it caught in there.
fury fan
Senior Member
I read a story on Moparts.com years ago about a guy that put his car in the ditch after adjusting that valve, apparently at higher engine PRM the steering got aggressive?
I don't remember the full story - but if you've experienced Moparts you know how heated those discussions could be.
It involved him not having plates on his car, (fighting), but was OK because ATVs drive unlicensed on his street (fighting), regardless he jeopardized civilians (fighting), and ATVs drove faster on the street than he did (fighting), etc, etc, etc.
I adjusted one of those valves years ago and have vowed to never do it again.
I don't remember the full story - but if you've experienced Moparts you know how heated those discussions could be.
It involved him not having plates on his car, (fighting), but was OK because ATVs drive unlicensed on his street (fighting), regardless he jeopardized civilians (fighting), and ATVs drove faster on the street than he did (fighting), etc, etc, etc.
I adjusted one of those valves years ago and have vowed to never do it again.
So, as I got my carb work done, I thought I would fine tune my steering adjustment......steering to left, move valve down....fine. Well, a note of caution here for anyone adjusting. I moved about 15 mils, 3 at a time, trying to get rid of the left turning. But, when done, the wheel would not move with engine running.....and quickly overheated the PS fluid. Caution when adjusting, when you start up, make sure the wheel will move, if not, you have likely locked him up and will regret the result. I kicked it back the 15, and am back to where it will steer, but will also still move left. I am sure this gearbox is bad, but am trying to do all I can to get RoadKill going down the road.
fury fan
Senior Member
That valve has to be in exactly the right spot, and unless you make some type of jig with fine-thread screw adjustments - every adjustment is like throwing a dart.
No guarantee that after an hour of dicking with it that you'll be any closer than you were yesterday.
And even if you get it right - it's prolly gonna move a bit when you give it the final tightening. (get the darts out again)
I don't remember all the semantics, but I remember this assessment and I trust that for my future decision-making.
Unfortunately - reman OEM-type gearboxes are getting HTF or pricey (or both).
There is a modern upgraded box being sold by some places as a correct replacement - but it requires some mild mods. (it looks very much like a $500+ Borgeson box advertised on the RH margin on here)
Fortunately, I read at least 1 review that said it was a *really* good improvement in the steering.
Here it is:
Differences in SLAB steering boxes - advertised to be equivalent 68 Newport but not so
No guarantee that after an hour of dicking with it that you'll be any closer than you were yesterday.
And even if you get it right - it's prolly gonna move a bit when you give it the final tightening. (get the darts out again)
I don't remember all the semantics, but I remember this assessment and I trust that for my future decision-making.
Unfortunately - reman OEM-type gearboxes are getting HTF or pricey (or both).
There is a modern upgraded box being sold by some places as a correct replacement - but it requires some mild mods. (it looks very much like a $500+ Borgeson box advertised on the RH margin on here)
Fortunately, I read at least 1 review that said it was a *really* good improvement in the steering.
Here it is:
Differences in SLAB steering boxes - advertised to be equivalent 68 Newport but not so
Yes, good points. And after a few tries at just marking the box before moving, I installed the dial indicator. And, if you are careful, you can control the movement, even as tightening. If you are messy, which I was on occasion, I bumped the valve by mistake. But on the later moves, I thought I had it under control.....right. I think there is more going on with mine....as in this exercise, I moved the valve over several cycles, and the indicator was behaving while being careful. But, the box did not respond until it locked up. So, I am prob not going to fool again, and leave it out of whack for now. There is no great force on the wheel when this happens, nor has it yet headed for the ditch while driving.....but one never knows. Also, I have not been comfortable that I find the right pump on line, so will eventually send mine off. I do think I have found several correct gearboxes.....so not so difficult there. Also did find a box in the for sale section, but got no response yet....an older ad. Fun for all.
twostick
Senior Member
Adjust the valve with the engine idling and both wheels off the ground. Before you start the engine, loosen the bolts just enough that you can move it tapping with a small hammer but can't move it by hand. If it's close to centered, the shaft will rotate slowly one way or the other with no load on the wheels. Tap the valve lightly to make it stop rotating. This takes finesse as it only takes a few thousands of an inch to go from centered to rotating.
Kevin
Kevin
I may try this method again. I did it with running engine once, but was not successful. With all of this said, I took my maiden road voyage today.....only couple miles. Main issue today was very loose steering that I still attribute to a loose gear lash that I cannot tighten.....adj bolt very tight thru range and does not remove all lash. Not much play in other linkage, that I have found. I will try more road warrior work to see where we are at....but am happy that I was able to get back home. Once again, on this setup, the wheel will turn on the ground, but is easy to hold with wheel....has not yet gotten agressive. Now, I want to ask the gurus here a question on replacement box. Are the boxes supplied mainly with the correct spline design....I have asked some of the mfrs for number of splines, but heard somewhere that there were two designs.....any thoughts as I wade on.
fury fan
Senior Member
I believe there is a larger spline used on C-bodies and a smaller spline used on smaller cars.
Then, somewhere around 73 when there was a major upgrade in standard disc brakes, larger balljoints, different wheel bearings, etc, the B&E bodies might have gone to the larger spline. (not sure on the A-body) I'm not an expert on that.
But if you order a gearbox for a C-body, you should be OK.
1967 CHRYSLER 300 7.2L 440cid V8 Steering Gear | RockAuto
Here's what Rock Auto lists for fitment, spot-checking shows 73+ A-bodies in there, so my generalization on the 73+ upgrade is probably correct.
Then, somewhere around 73 when there was a major upgrade in standard disc brakes, larger balljoints, different wheel bearings, etc, the B&E bodies might have gone to the larger spline. (not sure on the A-body) I'm not an expert on that.
But if you order a gearbox for a C-body, you should be OK.
1967 CHRYSLER 300 7.2L 440cid V8 Steering Gear | RockAuto
Here's what Rock Auto lists for fitment, spot-checking shows 73+ A-bodies in there, so my generalization on the 73+ upgrade is probably correct.
| CHRYSLER | 300 | 1965-1971 |
| CHRYSLER | CORDOBA | 1975-1983 |
| CHRYSLER | FIFTH AVENUE | 1983-1989 |
| CHRYSLER | IMPERIAL | 1968-1983 |
| CHRYSLER | LEBARON | 1977-1981 |
| CHRYSLER | NEW YORKER | 1965-1982 |
| CHRYSLER | NEWPORT | 1965-1981 |
| CHRYSLER | TOWN & COUNTRY | 1965-1981 |
| DODGE | ASPEN | 1976-1980 |
| DODGE | B100 | 1971-1980 |
| DODGE | B150 | 1982-1993 |
| DODGE | B200 | 1971-1980 |
| DODGE | B250 | 1981-1993 |
| DODGE | B300 | 1972-1980 |
| DODGE | B350 | 1982-1993 |
| DODGE | CHALLENGER | 1973-1974 |
| DODGE | CHARGER | 1973-1978 |
| DODGE | CORONET | 1973-1976 |
| DODGE | CUSTOM | 1965 |
| DODGE | DART | 1973-1976 |
| DODGE | DIPLOMAT | 1977-1989 |
| DODGE | M300 | 1972-1974 |
| DODGE | M350 | 1974 |
| DODGE | MAGNUM | 1978-1979 |
| DODGE | MIRADA | 1980-1983 |
| DODGE | MONACO | 1965-1977 |
| DODGE | POLARA | 1965-1973 |
| DODGE | ROYAL MONACO | 1975-1977 |
| DODGE | ST. REGIS | 1979-1981 |
| PLYMOUTH | BARRACUDA | 1973-1974 |
| PLYMOUTH | DUSTER | 1973-1976 |
| PLYMOUTH | FURY | 1965-1978 |
| PLYMOUTH | GRAN FURY | 1972-1988 |
| PLYMOUTH | PB100 | 1975-1980 |
| PLYMOUTH | PB100 VAN | 1974 |
| PLYMOUTH | PB150 | 1981-1982 |
| PLYMOUTH | PB200 | 1975-1980 |
| PLYMOUTH | PB200 VAN | 1974 |
| PLYMOUTH | PB250 | 1981-1982 |
| PLYMOUTH | PB300 | 1975-1979 |
| PLYMOUTH | PB300 VAN | 1974 |
| PLYMOUTH | PB350 | 1981-1983 |
| PLYMOUTH | ROADRUNNER | 1973-1975 |
| PLYMOUTH | SATELLITE | 1973-1974 |
| PLYMOUTH | SCAMP | 1973-1976 |
| PLYMOUTH | VALIANT | 1973-1975 |
| PLYMOUTH | VOLARE | 1976-1980 |
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