Hydroshox on mopar cars?

Brakes, Suspension, Rims and Tires

  1. fyriskung

    fyriskung New Member

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    Has anyone tried "Hydroshox" on a mopar car? It should work by just removing the
    shock-absorber and releasing a little on the torsion springs. Would love to see links and pictures :)

    About the system:

    Hydroshox - Racing Products & Accessories

     
  2. Welder guy

    Welder guy Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    No I have not seen it on a C body . $5000 just for the cheapest coil over shock kit . Then custom install and that’s not cheap. You never will see it on a c body.
     
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  3. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    I'm trying hard to be helpful, but this just doesn't look as easy to do on a Mopar, especially a c body.

    First issue is the shock mounts aren't up for supporting the weight of the car. Second issue would be that the front shocks with that coil and cylinder would be too large in diameter to fit.

    I personally think that the "slammed" look jumped the shark a while ago. Mild lowering using existing t bar adjustment and maybe lowering blocks in the rear would look good with everything working as it should.
     
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  4. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    This would require that the front frame section would have to be replaced with something that could support the coil over arrangement. Toss the torsion bars, upper and lower control arms, front frame forward of the steering gear. Splice in a custom assembly. Way more trouble than it would be worth and probably would not be good for much except bouncing up and down on Sunset Blvd. Would be a unique ride though.

    Dave
     
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  5. 1966newport

    1966newport Well-Known Member

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    will not work unless you completed trash the factory front suspension
     
  6. CBODY67

    CBODY67 Senior Member

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    The "lowered look" might be neat to look at, but it can result in several other dynamics! Having the vehicle low enough that you can knock the reflectors off of the asphalt, as you aim for and drive over them, might be fun, but can cause some other issues of visibility of lane divider markings in poor weather.

    The lowered look is fine if you only drive on smooth roads, flat roads, and any drive-way approaches are wide enough to really "angle" across them. One way to get people to look at your vehicle, though, as they see the additional efforts you have to go through just to drive the vehicle. BTAIM

    I had a friend that routinely "cut coils" to lower his GM vehicles. Looked good on them, being an inch or so lower. The rode a bit more firmly, too. BUT he was in a road environment in the city and didn't require any real extra attention to not "drag bottom".

    Chrysler products, by apparent design, have MORE rear overhang than many GM cars seem to. That means "dragging the pipes" on steeper-than-normal driveway approaches. With nothing more than normally-sagged rear springs! Which was the subject of an early 1960s Monroe Load-Leveller shock print ad!

    BUT to me, one of the great attributes of Chrysler Products, especially C-bodies, is how they drive on the road, at speed. The torsion bar front suspension, complimented by the rear assymetrical leaf springs, and with firm OEM shocks, are a JOY to enjoy. Add-in the Chrysler front suspension geometry that keeps the outside wheel better-braced against the curve, and it works wonderfully! One reason many law enforcement operatives, who have found the need to drive over 70mph "in pursuit" liked their Mopars for handling performance in the higher speed ranges. The ride quality of torsion bars is better than coil springs, too!

    And people seem to think they need to spend $$$$$$ to get something "newer" and allegedly better? Are they too used to dealing with a typical GM suspension system, not realizing that what they have in a Chrysler torsion bar/leaf spring suspension is better in many ways? If the current economy so good that people don't mind spending money on "toys"?

    Seems like there is an allegedly much-lauded front frame section Super Touring replacement (with coil-overs and rack-and-pinion steering) for E-bodies? Perhaps it can be adapted to something larger than a B/E-body? At what cost??????

    Chrysler designed their cars differently, back then, for a reason. Just that many who knew about these things aren't around to ask anymore. I suspect, based on engineering more than anything else. Cars might be more "generic" in their designs these days, but they certainly we NOT that way in the '50s-'80s!

    Enjoy!
    CBODY67
     
  7. fyriskung

    fyriskung New Member

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    Well, you get pumps and valves etc. for the 5000 and it is not that expensive.
     
  8. fyriskung

    fyriskung New Member

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    No.. it will not be possible to completely remove the torsion spring. But if you drop it enough to just "carry", then you can still get the height adjustment maybe.

    Too bad on the diameter, I wouldn't cut my car :( What is the maximum width of the front shock absorber for a c-body (1969)?
     
  9. CBODY67

    CBODY67 Senior Member

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    To me, different spending orientations. Perhaps generational? $5K+ will buy LOTS of things to make the car better, otherwise, rather than just the parts to make it "in the weeds". Not to mention all of the other hardware to make that suspension system work. OR the space it will take to put all of that hardware!

    Just some thoughts,
    CBODY67
     
  10. CBODY67

    CBODY67 Senior Member

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    [QUOTE="
    Too bad on the diameter, I wouldn't cut my car :( What is the maximum width of the front shock absorber for a c-body (1969)?[/QUOTE]
    The largest diameter shock absorber piston for the front shocks is 1". Which means the "HD"shocks used stiffer valving to make them "HD" or "High Control". Whereas the rear shocks could be 1 3/8" piston diameter (with the larger shock body, as a result).
    The Chrysler HD shocks I got for the front of my '80 Newport had a larger section at the bottom, for a slightly larger oil reservoir, I suspect, rather than being smooth (same body diameter, top to bottom, as is usually the case).
    CBODY67
     
  11. cbarge

    cbarge World Famous Barge in a Budget FCBO Gold Member

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    Most car tv shows are sponsored product placements. 90% of the stuff is either not designed to work on Mopars and/or way out of reach cost wise.
    But that does not inspire me to buy a Dynacorn Camaro shell and build it with every aftermarket part out there.
    Takes out the "thrill of the hunt" factor.
    ..and takes out tons of money from the bank account!!
     
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  12. Welder guy

    Welder guy Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    That’s just for the kit . Then there is the total destruction of your front end needed to install the kit . Then the removal and custom build of the inner fender wells to support the new height of the factory wheels , even more room need for custom wheels. The list goes on. This is a 10 grand build and you haven’t even backed it out of the garage yet.
     
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  13. commando1

    commando1 Old Man With a Hat on the Porch FCBO Gold Member

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    People read something on the internet that looks rediculous and serves no positive function but they want to do it because "it looks really cool".
    So they want to apply this rediculous look/modification to a Mopar which is ill suited to all this crap. Meanwhile their car is going to crap because they want to to have wet dreams instead of doing the goddam necessary repairs.
     
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  14. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    You aren't even addressing the rear suspension.

    To do this "right" ( note sarcasm lol) you have to think about grafting lower control arm mounts and other suspension mods. From what I've seen, the usual method is grafting GM pieces onto the stubframe and fabricating some sort of rear suspension that will accept hydraulics. It's a "no turning back" modification that's not for the faint of heart and requires someone to really know what they are doing. Read that as they've done this stuff a time or two. Lot's of good welding etc.

    If you really want a low rider, buy a GM car that's already done correctly. You'll be $$$$$$ ahead.
     
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  15. 65Fury440

    65Fury440 Senior Member

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  16. monaco75

    monaco75 Senior Member

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    Should definitely LS swap it too!! That would be bad ass!!
     
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  17. 300rag

    300rag Waiting out the storm FCBO Gold Member

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    Facepalm.gif
     
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  18. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Spiraling into money pit territory. This project sounds like a good candidate for a Virgil Exner toilet seat as well. Got to retain some Mopar parts.

    Dave
     
  19. CBODY67

    CBODY67 Senior Member

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    There can be some very nice looking modified vehicles out there. Slammed and shaved, typically, with great paint and body work. Plus a customized/modernized interior. NOBODY ever talks about how much money they spend to gain the accolades for their work! More of an "advertising venture" for the builders and such. Might even get them a cable show and more attention for their shop?

    Once the sheets might have dried, take the money and put it in a saving account (or better) to pay for college, or later life possibilities. Leave those neat, $$$$$, and "hard to live with on a daily basis" vehicles for somebody else to deal with, store for a nice day, and insure. The money for the mod kit is just the tip of the iceberg!!!! Can't forget the typical tow truck and enclosed trailer, either.

    As for the "investment", with all of those mods, you'll greatly reduce the potential customer with money IN their pocket, obviously. Think that new cars depreciate?

    Not that some of these modified vehicles might inspire future "affordable" projects, just that what you see and perceive to be cool can have a very short shelf-life of popularity. BTAIM

    Sorry for my generational comments. Just observed realities.
    CBODY67
     
  20. cbarge

    cbarge World Famous Barge in a Budget FCBO Gold Member

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    Customizing any vehicle narrows down any potential buyers since the modifications are such personal tastes.
    Sure have a 100k sunk into the gen 1 GM F body but never get back what was put into it.

    A Mopar example is my buddy has a 71 Plymouth Satellite Sebring.
    Was a 318 factory AC car. Now 71 440/727.
    He is easily influenced by others that recommended the latest and greatest aftermarket geegaw or doodad.
    The parts by themselves were nice,expensive but NEVER WORKED WELL WITH ALL THE OTHER STUFF.
    He puts on all this crap under the hood and the car never really worked right.
    The car was borderline streetable and was not enjoyable to drive.
    Fancy steering wheel but horn did not work. Press the washer button and horn honked. WTF?
    Big stereo,electric fans,aftermarket gauges,car alarm MSD ignition with factory distibutor,aluminum watwer pump housing ---just a nightmare.
    The more he added to the car the more modifications were needed to "make it work" or "make it fit'
    Classic case of more money than brains where zero research done to see if one such part works well with other fancy parts.

    My friend James spent the summer cleaning up the spagetti mess and got rid of the stuff that was not working well with everything else.
    Now the car runs like a scalded cat,very streetable and kicks ass.
    But being modified so much beyond stock is not everybody's fancy and he will never get back what he spent into it.
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2020
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