I got a really bad surprise today

70NPORT

Old Man with a Hat
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Ok, for once now I'm the noob for this evening.:sSig_noob:
My normally dependable and great running 70' 383 Newport did something it has NEVER done before (in fact I've never owned any Mopar that has done this, although I've heard scary stories from others about their mopars acting up this way). Thus by laying this all out I'm hoping you guys can throw out comments, ideas, past experience or just a plain ol' good slant on W---T---F just happened! :tard: ..esp. from all you electrical guru's...you know who you are.
First the ugly *** pics......... IMG_6790.JPGIMG_6791.JPGIMG_6792.jpgIMG_6797.jpg

Yesss, what you are viewing are the brunt out remains of the fusible link in my starter/batt/power cable under the hood. The link burned itself up completely like a piece of toast. So having done that, I guess it did it's job of protecting other electrical elements downstream, BUT I have no idea WHY it shorted. Here's how it happened: (in order)
Hurtling down rt.295 south ---
1. Loss of power (completely).
2. 383 backfires a couple times thru the exhaust while we are still rolling.
3. A bit of white smoke comes thru the main dash air vents, not much.
4. Car finally comes to complete stop on side of road, no pwr..at all...no horn, lights, etc.

Oh...here are the kind gentlemen who saved our assess from walking home. tonight..IMG_6809.jpgIMG_6802.jpgIMG_6803.jpgIMG_6807.jpg

So as it stands the fusible link is totally burnt and toasted..it looks like it went through a star trek transporter, got twisted up with another species during transport, and then caught fire energizing back........ITS UGLY. I will need to replace the entire cable from batt to starter motor......however, where/what does the fusible link lead terminate at? It appears to snake along the top of the wheel well and down towards the fuse block where it appears to combine with another cable. First thing tomorrow I'll break out my FSM and delve into this (I'm too freakin dead dog tired to start now)....but it would be nice to get some opinion as to what could have caused this to happen in the first place....I haven't a clue, yet:sSig_thanks::sSig_thanks:

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Wow, that really sucks. Lucky it didn't start a fire. I don't know the answer to your question but I bet it's not a big deal to fix. Running wires isn't rocket science.

Cool car.
 
I am the wrong guy to ask, I had mine burn up before only for me to eliminate them all together without looking for why. Glad to see she's o.k.
 
Wow, that really sucks. Lucky it didn't start a fire. I don't know the answer to your question but I bet it's not a big deal to fix. Running wires isn't rocket science.

Cool car.
Thanks. I keep an A/B/C extinguisher mounted on the trans hub inside the car JUST encase, luckily it was not needed. I really need to know what happened first before I can put her back on the road.
 
I am the wrong guy to ask, I had mine burn up before only for me to eliminate them all together without looking for why. Glad to see she's o.k.

I wanted to rip it all out right there on the side of the damn road, but then that would probably have made things worse. Guess I need to start looking at some reputable elect parts sources....
 
I'm sorry to hear that! Did you check to see if the wires going to the starter/solenoid are fused together? Is the firewall connectors burned up too?
 
That does suck! My first thought is that maybe the wire itself may have gotten brittle and broke causing it to arc accross itself and fry. Just a thought, basically my first of the day so cut me some slack if I'm way off base.
 
I'm sorry to hear that! Did you check to see if the wires going to the starter/solenoid are fused together? Is the firewall connectors burned up too?

Yes, I had time to do thorough visual inspection(s) while stranded on the side of the road waiting for the tow truck. Everything looks unscathed (except of course the fusible link)....no burn marks, the rest of the cabling/wire looks to be completely intact all the way down to the starter/solenoid. The firewall connectors are also fine and intact. I also checked the fuse block underneath the dashboard, no visible damage there and all the fuses are still intact and not burnt out. I'm still trying to figure out WTF happened, in a matter of 4 or 5 seconds we went from cruising down the highway to being stuck in the middle of nowhere with a fried fusible link and no power. I was at least able to confirm the battery was not damaged and is still good.
 
That does suck! My first thought is that maybe the wire itself may have gotten brittle and broke causing it to arc accross itself and fry. Just a thought, basically my first of the day so cut me some slack if I'm way off base.

No, that sounds logical. I guess it could be many things, but I was thinking that as well. Although there were no areas on the wire itself that were exposed or without sheathing. It was a little brittle however, but I always made sure not to move or disturb it just b/c of that issue.
 
It was generic. My link did the same and I eliminated the link probably not a good idea.
 
It was generic. My link did the same and I eliminated the link probably not a good idea.

Yikes, ya think?!
The fuse pops for a reason. You don't drive that much though so I guess for you its not much to be worried about. I just found out the cable can be had a Autozone...with a modern "blade" type fuse.
 
It must be C-Body break down week. My NY'er has a huge coolant leak. Antifreeze all over the place and still can't see from where. This is going to be a fun day!
 
It must be C-Body break down week. My NY'er has a huge coolant leak. Antifreeze all over the place and still can't see from where. This is going to be a fun day!

Ah, well guess I'm bad luck:busted:. You have my sympathies, nuisance leaks used to drive me bananas until I finally got everything sealed up nice and tight.
 
Man that sucks, you go out for a cruise and come home on a tow truck! I'm glad it didn't cause you anymore damage. I'm not 100% sure but, I think that fuse link protected power wire goes to the big terminal on the starter relay. You said smoke came through the dash vents? I think you must have had a dead short somewhere. I would have a good look under the dash, especially the wires to the amp gauge and the gauge itself. Maybe with the battery disconnected and everything in the car turned "off", connect an ohmmeter lead to the main power wire and the other lead to ground to see if you have a short in the car's wiring. You might get a reading but it shouldn't be zero, if it's 0 ohms you have a short. An infinite reading (no reading) should be OK too. IDK if a Mopar could do this but I've had Fords do it. The VR fails and allows full battery voltage to short through the alternator's rotor (field) windings causing the wiring harness, battery and alternator to become very warm (hot) to the touch. IMO that would be enough to take out the fuse link. Also possibly, but I think unlikely, bad diodes in the alternator could cause this. It would be a dead short to ground from the battery through the fuse link, ammeter wiring and alternator (if Mopar charging systems work similar to Ford charging systems). I've been lucky so far as I haven't had to troubleshoot my Newport's charging system yet. Anyway, I hope you find the problem and that it won't be anything too bad.
 
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Please read before you do another thing....

http://www.allpar.com/fix/alternator.html

Got it thanks.
I'm running a 60 (or 65 its one of the other) amp alternator b/c my car has factory AC system. If I read the article correctly the guy was running an 60 amp in a 35 amp system and that's what was cooking his wiring.

Here's the bulkhead connector, looks unscathed after the ordeal for the most part, and it is not brittle and still somewhat pliable. Wiring is dusty but intact and not scorched. So in that aspect I guess I'm lucky.
IMG_6811.jpg

Haha, here's where the fuse link used to be. I've found a few sources (suggestions from other mopar guys) where I can get the entire cable.
IMG_6816.jpg

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IMG_6816.jpg
 
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