I just got a 1971 Sport Suburban

gregn96cuda

New Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2015
Messages
13
Reaction score
1
Location
el cerrito ca
Got her yesterday so today I was cleaning her up. I tried to get the rear window down, but when I turned the key in the tailgate it doesn't budge. It does make a buzzing noise in the gate. I tried the dash switch and nothing happens. Does anyone know how to get it open with the window in the up position?
 
Welcome Greg and yes post some pics of the beast. I am sure someone here will be able to come to the rescue on your problem, cheers!
 
Welcome to the site from the Motor City!
 
:sSig_greetingsthor: ........... :welcome:
From a 69 Custom Suburban owner, (caretaker). Love to see some pictures and get the details.

I've heard the tailgate can be opened in the door mode with the window up but I haven't tried that on mine. You have to crawl inside to do it.
 
Got her yesterday so today I was cleaning her up. I tried to get the rear window down, but when I turned the key in the tailgate it doesn't budge. It does make a buzzing noise in the gate. I tried the dash switch and nothing happens. Does anyone know how to get it open with the window in the up position?

Not sure if they are the same but I have a 70 T & C and had the same problem. I had to remove the inner panel on the tailgate and remove the window lift from the window tracks and manually push the window down to open the gate. There are four nuts that hold the mechanism to the inner side of the gate. The slide it to one side and then the other to disengage the tracks. you will see them when you get the inner panel off. I can post some pictures if you get stuck.
 
Thanks for the info Hank. I pulled the rear panel and could see the four bolts holding the power motor assembly. I won't be able to work on it until saturday, but if I need some photos I'll let you know.
 
I had a 71 sport suburban for a while in the 90s great car. It sounds like the motor in the tailgate is seized, or it has to be cleaned up. The grease in the gear on the motor gets very hard and causes the motor to work very slowly or not at all. The check is to take the motor out of the door, open the top of the motor, clean out the old grease and put some new grease in the motor. I had to do this on my 71 sport and the glass went up and down smoothly and at a good rate. Check the housing on the motor that holds the window gear they have a tendency to crack, you might have to weld the gear housing if its cracked. I had a 71 town and country that had teh same problem, i replaced the motor with an NOS motor and its worked great for years. If i remember correctly you have to reach in to access the bolts that hold the motor in place, you have to support the glass while you do this. The motor is connected to the inner brace in the tailgate. a 1/4 in drive with short sockets would work in there. The last time i worked on one of these was about 15 years ago, i might miss a step or two.
The 69-71 wagon tailgate only open when the window is down, the 72-73 tailgate can open with the glass up.

Good luck, post some Pics
 
Thanks for the info Hank. I pulled the rear panel and could see the four bolts holding the power motor assembly. I won't be able to work on it until saturday, but if I need some photos I'll let you know.
Should be 3 bolts I believe. What do the others out there say?
 
I took the regulator out today, it was an easy job. 4-7/16" nuts holding the bracket to the tailgate, 4-5/16" bolts holding the motor to the regulator, I used a 2x4 to prop up the glass. Hank said to slide the regulator to one side then the other side to disengage the rollers from the channel, then I unbolted the motor. Just like sportsuburbangt said the grease was hard, it was rusty and more like gravel than grease. I tested the motor and it works on a car battery in both directions. Now i just need to clean up the dried grease on the regulator, lube it, and reinstall the parts. Then it's onto rebuilding the 4160 Holley that dumped enough gas after the first test run to hydrolock the 440.

Thanks for the help guys, I was a little leery because a friend of mine suffered a severe injury to his hand pulling a power window motor from a Cadillac door back in 1983. The glass on the older cad was really heavy, the regulator was spring loaded and had a scissor like action to his hand when he pulled the motor off of the regulator. It took months for his injuries to heal.
 
Glad you got it apart with no drama. There are cases where sometimes the side windows are spring loaded and can cause injury if care is not taken.
My window goes up and down pretty good but I may do what you did and clean and relube the motor.
 
When you re-install the motor on the mechanism you'll need to hold the arms slightly open and then engage the sprocket on the motor to hold them in that position. If you don't they will be too close together and wont engage both channels. I only had to install six times to learn this..... if I had to do it again I would measure the distance between the inside edge of the channels on the glass and be sure your arms will reach them with the motor installed. You might have to do it inside the tailgate cavity so its a bit fiddly.
 
When you re-install the motor on the mechanism you'll need to hold the arms slightly open and then engage the sprocket on the motor to hold them in that position. If you don't they will be too close together and wont engage both channels. I only had to install six times to learn this..... if I had to do it again I would measure the distance between the inside edge of the channels on the glass and be sure your arms will reach them with the motor installed. You might have to do it inside the tailgate cavity so its a bit fiddly.

HUMmmmmmm. I'll have to be careful of the "fiddly" part. :poke:
 
Glad that worked. Post a few shots of the wagon.
Like the other guys said be careful putting it back together.
 
Well I put it back together and it worked going up with the dash switch, but won't go down. The little worm gear was rusty and the gears didn't sound good going up. I used spay on white grease, but i think I'll clean it up and use wheel bearing grease this time around. I may have to find a new gear to make this thing run smoothly. I can't load photos with my phone but if someone wants to volunteer I can text photos to them to post on here. I'm going to take it apart again but this time it will be an easy operation.
 
The best stuff to lube those gearz iz ah 1lb tub of WHITE LITHIUM and it'z best applied with a throw away tooth brush or one of those cute little steel handle 1/2" flux application brushes that Harbor Freight sellz for $4 for 30 of 'um. You DO NOT WANT axle grease in those gearz PERIOD! trust me, Jer
 
Back
Top