Ideas Where to put Aftermarket Oil gauge in Newport?

Henrius

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After an idiot light malfunction, I decided to put a MECHANICAL oil pressure gauge in my 1972 Newport. The problem is, what gauge and where? I want to keep the car as close looking to original as possible. Those utilitarian silver gauges that hang below the dash just won't do!

A Chevy guy modified an original ash tray to fit a gauge inside. Of course, he only saw it when he wanted, but I would only want to see it when the idiot light went on. Any other suggestions?

I learned the hard way on my Fury to not use plastic tube to the gauge- only copper- for obvious reasons! Carpet isn't pretty anymore when a plastic oil line gives way!
 
I learned the hard way on my Fury to not use plastic tube to the gauge- only copper- for obvious reasons! Carpet isn't pretty anymore when a plastic oil line gives way!

And that is why I use electrical gauges. That would be an easier to mount alternative too. Having been in the gauge calibration business for many years, I can tell you that the old wive's tale about mechanical gauges being more accurate is mostly BS.
 
Plastic tube ,the company screws up or you,you got a oil slick in your car interior or engine compartment.
Electrical gauges are the way to go.
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And that is why I use electrical gauges. That would be an easier to mount alternative too. Having been in the gauge calibration business for many years, I can tell you that the old wive's tale about mechanical gauges being more accurate is mostly BS.

Well, thanks for the heads up on that one, since I haven't picked out my gauges yet. I had always believed the wive's tale that electrical gauges are inaccurate. Guess I should not have believed everything I heard. Do electrical gauges tap off the OEM Mopar sensor, or do they have their own under the OEM sensor?

Since you were in gauge calibration, how did you get MOPAR fuel gauges to register just at "F" when completely full, and just at "E when empty? Both my Fury and Newport gauges are well short of "F" when full.
 
Well, thanks for the heads up on that one, since I haven't picked out my gauges yet. I had always believed the wive's tale that electrical gauges are inaccurate. Guess I should not have believed everything I heard. Do electrical gauges tap off the OEM Mopar sensor, or do they have their own under the OEM sensor?

Since you were in gauge calibration, how did you get MOPAR fuel gauges to register just at "F" when completely full, and just at "E when empty? Both my Fury and Newport gauges are well short of "F" when full.
You should match the sender up with the gauge. In other words, use an Autometer sender with an Autometer gauge.

To make my fuel gauge read full, I just fill the tank.... Oh wait... That's probably not the answer you are looking for.

The Mopar gauges work on resistance. The sender will have 10 ohms resistance at "full" (or hot if you are dealing with a temp gauge). 23 ohms at half and 74 at zero.

If your gauge doesn't read full, there's a few things that can affect it. While the gauge could be "off" a little, most of the time it comes down to a couple things. There may be added resistance in the wiring somewhere, the sender could be worn, or the float of the sender could be not adjusted right.

Since you are experiencing low at full and high at empty, it's probably some sort of issue with the sender float not going full travel both directions. This seems to happen with some of the aftermarket replacement senders.

The good solution, and it compensates for the sender not reading right, or the gauge not reading right, is the addition of a Meter Match. This is a matchbox sized piece that goes in the sender line and it changes the resistance output so the gauge now reads correctly.

I'd also add a dedicated ground wire to the sender. That won't help the empty reading, but might help the full.

Here's my ramblings on the subject.
Gas Gauge Fix

Better yet, is @HWYCRZR 's thread.

Fuel Sender calibration using Meter Match
 
My mechanical oil gauge hasn't leaked one drop in over 18 years but I'm still worried about that. Anyhow, if you want mechanical, Buy a brass T connector and hook it up where the oil dummy light is located. Route it though one of the existing electrical holes in the firewall. No drilling, so its pretty easy. Every car should have one.
 
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