Unfortunately, the supply of aftermarket points for Mopar is really drying up, points to a conspiracy?
Plenty of cars running just fine on loose distributors, so don't throw it away because of a little wobble.
When I install points, I clean their faces with a business card or thick paper soaked in 90% running alcohol, and follow it up with just clean paper, pull the paper through the close points.
The point is to get them 100% clean of oils, or they will burn.
I install them, and for the love of Dog, don't go anywhere near them with a feeler gauge unless it's as clean as the points, but the feeler gauge is pointless.
Use your eyeballs, no point face contamination.
If you've never done this before, you should know that you have to bump the engine with remote starter, or by turning fan blade while pushing down on the belt, the distributor cam has to be in the position where the point rubbing block is on the highest peak, at the point's greatest opening, and set a tiny air gap in there, .010"-.015" is fine.
Too big a gap, not enough dwell, doesn't run right.
A tight point gap means more dwell, better running engine.
As the rubbing block wears off, the gap closes, making it run even better.
I've seen distributors at tune up time where there's hardly a visible point gap, and the engine ran like a dream, proving again how reliable Chrysler's are, and that they run fine when it looks like they shouldn't be running at all.
If you have a dwell meter, adjust it like that instead of contaminating the points with an oily feeler gauge, but I've had the best luck using no feeler gauge or dwell meter, much in the same way that setting timing by the book with a timing light rather than by ear turns your car into a dog and you immediately change it back to how it was.
AutoSpeed - Ignition coil dwell time
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