Ignition switch removal

[tbm3fan]

So I have managed to get the wheel and top section off the column to lift the turn signal switch out of the way. I am now looking at the steering wheel lock and the FSM which says to use a special tool to remove a pin. WTH, as in who has that particular tool? Short of having that tool what else can it do? FSM says not to hammer on the part. Does that mean no tapping.

 

[tbm3fan]

Forget it there is no pin as it is staked on in three locations. So far a gear puller hasn't gotten anywhere yet.

 

[tbm3fan]

Alright I see the FSM is not all that complete. Apparently it is a well concealed sleeve that is staked on and after tapping around the collar it came off revealing a large pin. Oh boy, FSM be damned I am going to have to tap it out despite their warning.

 

[Samplingman]

I need to do this as well. Can you post some pics of the process?

 

[Big_John]

I tapped mine out.. Just very light taps though. IIRC, once it was out far enough, I pulled it the rest of the way.

BTW, a lot of that steering lock mechanism doesn't need to find its way back in the car. Just saying.....

 

[tbm3fan]

I need to do this as well. Can you post some pics of the process?

Getting the wheel off was easy enough. Then you have the turn signal switch. The black screw through the switch takes care of the turn signal stalk. Then remove the three screws around the inside collar which hold down the turn signal assembly. Now remove the lower panel and then the small cover over the bottom of the column that hides the turn signal's wiring. Then lift the assembly while pushing the wires from below to get working room. I then had enough out to let it gently hang. Then there is one little screw left holding that button down on the right side.

Now I could remove the three slot screws that held the first section over the second section of the column with the ignition switch. There was a sleeve now present around the shaft with the wheel that locks down the transmission in park. I gently tapped around that to make round and removed the sleeve. Now I saw the 1/4" pin holding that wheel on and I gently tapped it out while bracing the shaft so it didn't move. Once out the wheel lifted right out. Then I pushed the release for the key cylinder to partially pull out to disengage with the ignition switch. Three screws and the switch is loose. I then threaded the wiring harness back up through. I only disconnected the plastic connector under the dash rather than cutting it off. Good thing as some wires may need to transfer like the two small red wires at the end.

My new switch had a longer 12 ga red power wire and black ground wires which were not pushed into the plastic connector. I transferred the two small red wires over to the new connector and pushed the black wire into it's hole. It already had the proper fitting. My red was bypassed as it clearly got hot in the connector years ago. I then put it all back together in order including the wheel lock. Right now the only thing left t do is make a connection for the red power wire. The fitting on the end won't work as I am not using the connector for it. Need to decide what kind of fitting I want to use. Direct splice together or a male and female spade connector?

 

[tbm3fan]

Oh, I did notice that my original switch before taking out was partially separated at the plastic and metal interface of the housing. Little springs inside were slightly askew from what I could see before removing it.