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I was wondering if these will work together!
Call their tech line. I run the Street Fire on one of my cars. It works great, the engine never started so quickly and it seems to have improved throttle response.
One thing to keep in mind is the availability of parts in the event that something goes wrong and you are away from home. That is the nice thing with the Chrysler OEM type of igintion, caps, rotors and ignition modules can be found at most parts stores so whatever you buy, you might want to buy some spare parts.
so the MP upgrade from Mancini a safer way to go parts availability?
Are these any good? I know there's a common setup out there that is prone to failure
Might also want to consider one of the US made units from Rick Ehrenberg. www.ebay.com/str/ricksmopars. He is one of the best technical experts on quality mopar parts out there. Avoid at all costs and the the off shore china crap sold by many other vendors.
They are all good, just make sure the curve is right for your motor, not all in fast like most do.
last time i needed a mopar ignition box it took 3 days to get one
My uncles and friends had them in all there race cars and never heard of the 6al or any msd box failing!
Although I haven't run it, I'm still thinking that a really good "bang for the buck" ignition system is a used genuine Mopar distributor, rebuilt/recurved by @halifaxhops with a GM HEI module. Reliable, excellent spark and easy to get parts. Backup is another GM HEI module in the glove box. Run the right coil and you can lose the ballast resistor.
I may do this with my 300.... I keep preaching about it...
Mopar HEI Conversion
HEI Electronic Ignition Retrofit How-To - Slant Six Forum
HEI electronic ignition discussion - Slant Six Forum
I ran them too and never had a problem, but a couple things have happened. First is the MSD boxes started getting built offshore and from what I've heard, the reliability went down. The second thing that happened was the market saw quite a few counterfeit MSD boxes.
I ran a MSD 6A box on my A12 car for years and it worked great. I ran the plug gaps at around .055 with a MSD blaster coil. That was years ago and the car is with another owner with the MSD still going strong after 30 (minimum) years.
I'm also a believer in the Mopar electronic ignition as a reliable street ignition. I'm hesitant on the aftermarket versions I've seen lately as they seem to be a bit hit or miss with quality. Again, I blame the offshore manufacturing, but we're stuck with that. @FURYGT has a reliable source for replacement ECU boxes that are economical enough to buy two so you already have the spare for the trunk. Again, the used rebuilt/recurved Mopar distributor is (IMHO) the way to go over a new offshore version or a rebuild from another source like Autozone.
I've run the Pertronix conversions that some people just seem to hate with no problems too. The second version with the built in protections for leaving the ignition on etc. is the ticket. My spare for my Formula S Barracuda is another distributor with a Pertronix in the trunk... Plug and play. It's a long story how I ended up with two... But it all works for me.
Cue the guys saying how wonderful points are.
Points are great!
They do take some getting used to.
I could not resist!
Basically if your ignition system is not mis- firing it is working. All the gadgets and gizmos will not make more power. If your fouling plugs and near stock, something is wrong.
Any ignition is good till is craps out. Then how long for parts? This is a reason the GM module in place of Chrysler ECU is a good option. Part is small for glove box, easy to change, available everywhere.
This is probably a good place to ask this: On my 451 I used to run an older-style MP distributor that had the slots which needed to be welded and filed to set the mechanical advance travel. Later I got a good deal on a newer dizzy with the Mallory YH internals, which are easy to adjust the mechanical advance by loosening off a couple of Torx screws.
I know that Rick Ehrenberg curses these distributors with the Mallory advance mechanism, but I don't know why. Something about them jamming-up? I've never had any problems with mine (yet!).
I believe what you might be proposing is just like David Unified Ignition (DUI) began selling many years ago? Adding a GM HEI module into the mix, externally, on non-GM HEI distributors.
The main thing with the GM HEI modules is to keep them cool. Which is why they NEED to have the vial of "heat sink grease" that usually comes with them applied to the surface the module sits on in the HEI distributor. Other than that? Old age.
I had to look them up and yea, that's basically the same thing. I do remember having some ignition parts, possibly a distributor on a Corvette that I had for a short time. Quite frankly, I'm not a fan of the name. WTF? Was that intentional? Lost too many friends to that problem.
The HEI module does seem pretty bullet proof. GM used it in a lot of cars and I'll bet most that were replaced were just "Let's try this" parts cannon diagnosis. The nice long duration, high voltage spark is hard to beat. It is a transistor type ignition, and the Mopar electronic ignition is also a transistor based ignition. The MSD and the like are capacitor discharge ignitions that give a faster, "higher" spark. BTW, the Model T Ford used a CD type ignition of sorts.
I wish I could find two things... One is a comparison of exactly how each ignition works in one article. I read one once that compared the Kettering (points), transistor and CD ignitions and their pluses and minuses. I can't find it now. The other was a commercial that Chrysler ran, probably in 1973 or 74. It showed fire hoses pouring water an open hood. Then they turned them off and started the car. I only saw it once, maybe twice... It touted the the new ignition system and its ability to run in damp weather.
The Mopar ignition basically just replaces the points with a power transistor acting as the switch. HEI ignitions don't need a ballast resistor, and the module is supposed to be matched to the coil used with it. I'm sure that's because the HEI module includes a current limiting circuit internally, which is the secret to how they can generate the High Energy spark: It can continuously vary the current draw to exactly saturate the coil before it needs to fire, without wasting energy as excess heat in the coil.
I do a lot of out of town driving with my cars.
Like others said parts availability is important!
I am running an OE type Mopar ECU system.
Simple and reliable.
I highly recommend getting halifaxshops build you a recurved distributor to suit your motor.
He also has ECU's and ballast resistors.
But as others said they can be had anywhere.
I carry spares just in case.
BTW the Summit electronic ignition kit that includes the distributor does have a nice curve already in it. Thats what I am running in my 383.
Final option is from FBO fame or the Revinator people they sell adjustable advance plates if you want to do a DIY recurve. Did this to the 318 73 wagon.
Hope this helps.
When you look at local parts stores none of them show the ecu’s on there sites unless I’m looking them up wrong!!
Ignition Control Module. They might be listed under that name.
ECU is a computer.