Does anyone know where I can these single blade connectors new? Closed thing I've are HEI connectors with a clip that cost $10 each. Really don't want to splice new wire on to the old ones are use basic cheap blade connectors
Ignition wiring (My car should be on fire)
- Thread starter JustMatt
- Start date
stubs300
Senior Member
The Duck or Goggle is your friend, why can't people understand and do this themselves????? Good Luck
https://duckduckgo.com/?q=mopar+blade+conectors&t=h_&ia=shopping
https://duckduckgo.com/?q=mopar+blade+conectors&t=h_&ia=shopping
I've don't plenty of googling and digging around sites like Summit and Amazon.
No luck with a connector that does already have a wire
i have no experience with this company
DELPHI/PACKARD TERMINALS & CONNECTORS, CONNECTORS - Terminal Supply Company - Product Catalog
DELPHI/PACKARD TERMINALS & CONNECTORS, CONNECTORS - Terminal Supply Company - Product Catalog
I got some of mine from Rhode Island Wiring. And some off e-bay or amazon.
Packard style connector.
The ones with the molded rubber insulation you will have to get creative if you want to keep the look. I used a razor blade to remove the rubber insulation ( cut in 1/2 length wise) crimped the new wire and then put the rubber insulation back on and used black heat shrink to hold it together. Looks almost original.
Packard style connector.
The ones with the molded rubber insulation you will have to get creative if you want to keep the look. I used a razor blade to remove the rubber insulation ( cut in 1/2 length wise) crimped the new wire and then put the rubber insulation back on and used black heat shrink to hold it together. Looks almost original.
Thoughts on a scale of 1-10 with 1 bring a good idea and 10 being my car will burst into flames even with a pro install
1963 - 1974 Dodge Mopar Wire Harness Upgrade Kit fits painless new compact fuse | eBay
1963 - 1974 Dodge Mopar Wire Harness Upgrade Kit fits painless new compact fuse | eBay
11
I'm not a fan of the generic wiring kits.
I repaired a wiring harness by using a piece of plywood and some finishing nails. One wire at a time...
I'm not a fan of the generic wiring kits.
I repaired a wiring harness by using a piece of plywood and some finishing nails. One wire at a time...
Mine, unfortunately, is all but a complete write off. Pervious owner hacked it up so bad the car seriously should have caught on fire. You can see on page two were a wire burned completely through the ignition switch connector
stubs300
Senior Member
What did you say? You need to proofread your **** before you post! Have you looked at any of those links I provided???? YOU SHOULD! Because what your lookin for is in that link, and more then on one site, if your willing to dig??? I am certain that you want the instant gratification of someone actually handing it to you because your to lazy to do it yourself, right? Good Luck
Who hurt you?
Just remember it's not your fault
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
8.675309.
I would do my own wiring harness, but I AM an electrical engineer AND an experienced electrician extraordinarily talented with electrical technology and phenomena from a most precocious age. As such, I think you should steer clear of most eBay fixes like this one. The BEST source I've found for a pre-made electrical harness for you is Painless Wiring. Go to them.
Mind you, I personally would NOT use their products, as they're clearly a GM-oriented operation, but I'm not you. This Painless outfit should have robust warranties and customer support, which I suspect you will appreciate. I've seen some good comments on these folks too, and have bought a couple of their small items at AutoZone over the years.
If you had a lot of $$, you could just fly me in to wire the thing for you. Barring that, go with Painless:
Painless Wiring
Good luck!
What would you use for a new fuse books if you started from scratch?
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
I would use a good, brass contact, 1.25" x 0.25" glass fuse holder with a common bus. Two might be good, so you can use one for circuits requiring constant power from the battery, and others only to be powered when the ignition switch is turned on:
The WVE 6G1042 vended by Rock Auto among others looks good:
More Information for WVE 6G1042
I use one of these DORMAN 85666 fuse holders under my hood for the headlights and pusher cooling fan. I plan to upgrade this.
I have these aforementioned circuits on Tyco-Bosch 30A and 2 40A relays, 5-pin, in close proximity to the fuses. I actually now use two BREAKERS which plug into the 1.25"x0.25" fuse clips, giving me the "best of both worlds" protection for the headlights, though I had ZERO trouble with just fuses. (Mind you, I've driven in St. Tammany Parish on clamshell roads at night with dicky headlights. Most folks get scared when these go out, but I have GOOD night vision! But, for the sake of wife and progeny, I installed the breakers. You should use breakers for headlights too.)
I note from the old Mopar fuseblock under my dash that I have 3 on the ignition switch, and two constantly hot, with one more not in use at present. Mine looks like this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-1969-...976101?hash=item547698c465:g:VZMAAOSwQjldjSEu
though the back, where the circuiting is done is a little different. You COULD get one of these. if you want to stick to the old circuiting as much as possible. Its your dime there. Seeing the cluster-**** under your dash, I'd modernize it a bit, though I PREFER glass fuses, as they're graded by the Society of Fuse Engineers (SFE) while the modern blade crap gets excreted by sundry asiatic slave states. I avoid such filth whenever possible. Buy NOS fuses.
So, which way will you go? I LIKE these repop old style fuse blocks, and for Mathilda's underdash stuff, will probably stick with what Ma Par did, but for any ADDITIONAL CIRCUITS, I prefer to put my overcurrent protection under the hood, NOT under the dash. Despite being quite spry and able to stand on my head under my steering column for inordinate periods while working, its not an enviable experience. How many circuits do you plan to use? Just the original minimum?
You had better start PLANNING for this now.
Keep in touch,
Electric Jerry
(My old Tucson Street handle. I lived without a home for 7 years here, riding my electric scooter for much of this time, ego the name. They then hung "Professor" on me...SIGH! Damned americans let mass media dictate their very thoughts!)
The WVE 6G1042 vended by Rock Auto among others looks good:
More Information for WVE 6G1042
I use one of these DORMAN 85666 fuse holders under my hood for the headlights and pusher cooling fan. I plan to upgrade this.
I have these aforementioned circuits on Tyco-Bosch 30A and 2 40A relays, 5-pin, in close proximity to the fuses. I actually now use two BREAKERS which plug into the 1.25"x0.25" fuse clips, giving me the "best of both worlds" protection for the headlights, though I had ZERO trouble with just fuses. (Mind you, I've driven in St. Tammany Parish on clamshell roads at night with dicky headlights. Most folks get scared when these go out, but I have GOOD night vision! But, for the sake of wife and progeny, I installed the breakers. You should use breakers for headlights too.)
I note from the old Mopar fuseblock under my dash that I have 3 on the ignition switch, and two constantly hot, with one more not in use at present. Mine looks like this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-1969-...976101?hash=item547698c465:g:VZMAAOSwQjldjSEu
though the back, where the circuiting is done is a little different. You COULD get one of these. if you want to stick to the old circuiting as much as possible. Its your dime there. Seeing the cluster-**** under your dash, I'd modernize it a bit, though I PREFER glass fuses, as they're graded by the Society of Fuse Engineers (SFE) while the modern blade crap gets excreted by sundry asiatic slave states. I avoid such filth whenever possible. Buy NOS fuses.
So, which way will you go? I LIKE these repop old style fuse blocks, and for Mathilda's underdash stuff, will probably stick with what Ma Par did, but for any ADDITIONAL CIRCUITS, I prefer to put my overcurrent protection under the hood, NOT under the dash. Despite being quite spry and able to stand on my head under my steering column for inordinate periods while working, its not an enviable experience. How many circuits do you plan to use? Just the original minimum?
You had better start PLANNING for this now.
Keep in touch,
Electric Jerry
(My old Tucson Street handle. I lived without a home for 7 years here, riding my electric scooter for much of this time, ego the name. They then hung "Professor" on me...SIGH! Damned americans let mass media dictate their very thoughts!)
Probably going to give this a go
Jiaying 18-Way Fuse Box Holder 30A Per Circuit with LED Indicator for Automotive Car Boat Marine SUV ... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VP9GDR9/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_4oiEEbV7PWE67
Jiaying 18-Way Fuse Box Holder 30A Per Circuit with LED Indicator for Automotive Car Boat Marine SUV ... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VP9GDR9/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_4oiEEbV7PWE67
Update:
After some work it looks like it's the wiring for the lights, wipers, and rear window are they only things that got damaged.
The car now cranks from the key, now I just need to get this dumb carburetor to cooperate.
After some work it looks like it's the wiring for the lights, wipers, and rear window are they only things that got damaged.
The car now cranks from the key, now I just need to get this dumb carburetor to cooperate.
Thanks for the update..
The carb,eh??
The carb,eh??
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