Impster - the big&white

[LeBaron1973]

Dual AT? How can it have the rear heater/defroster that could burn unlucky passengers` necks then? I spotted RR heat button on the dash.

I don't know, the heater/defroster "probably" operates through the Airtemp unit as the ATC is an early version of today's climate control systems.
Look at the rear of the trunk right behind the seat as that's where the rear A/C evaporator is located.

 

[ImpJay]

How would they know how many days you were on the road?

Beautiful Imp btw

Actually by no way. They check the mileage at safety inspection and the other one are the speed cameras if they flash. Cops are not be that picky around here, so mistakes may happen.
The safety inspection is every other year, if the museum car is from 1960 or younger, every fourth year if older than that, and for all others it is annual.
The PO went to the SI last May, so the next is in the spring of 2020. The Imperial is older than 78, so no emission tests are needed.

 

[ImpJay]

I don't know, the heater/defroster "probably" operates through the Airtemp unit as the ATC is an early version of today's climate control systems.
Look at the rear of the trunk right behind the seat as that's where the rear A/C evaporator is located.

I`d like to hear what this looks like in your eyes as well as know if these speakers are the original rear speakers or aftermarket stuff?

 

[ImpJay]

The plan (not during one winter):

check fluids
lube the manual choke cable (maybe replace with an electric unit)
replace the seat switch on the driver side (the needed part is coming form mr Park)
get rid of the aftermarket radio
remove all surface rust (luckily only comparatively small spots)
buy fender skirts (hope to get them from Finland)
buy the correct master control switch panel and vent wing switches
get the right vent working (bells and whistles are there)
figure out, what to do with the mismatching exhaust manifolds
see what`s going on with the left front door panel (the lower part is not intact)
replace the left reverse lamp bulb
get the power door locks working (stretching now despite that I`m close to 6` tall)
find a spare tire with a steel wheel having the correct bolt pattern
either buy or make a spare tire cover
change the gas cap to a locking unit
move the radiator expansion bottle (replace the Lasol windshield washing fluid bottle with something more correct)
install the fan shroud
release the stuck right rear seat belt
fix the headlight covers (they go up, but only half way down)
The vinyl top has some bubbles underneath it
the left C-pillar pillow is not where it should be
replace the tires at some time (must be white sidewalls measuring 15-2``)

All in all, not a bad project, but a lovely car. Impster will get a fair share of cruising on the roads and streets for sure.

 

[ImpJay]

I don't know, the heater/defroster "probably" operates through the Airtemp unit as the ATC is an early version of today's climate control systems.
Look at the rear of the trunk right behind the seat as that's where the rear A/C evaporator is located.

You`re right, so it is the rear A/C, which works.

 

[LeBaron1973]

I`d like to hear what this looks like in your eyes as well as know if these speakers are the original rear speakers or aftermarket stuff?

View attachment 231307 As I'm not mechanically skilled I think these components look ok and speakers probably original, others with more understanding will comment later.

View attachment 231308

View attachment 231309

 

[ImpJay]

What are these? the pad is next to the fender tag, but the codes are pointing to the windshield, so I had to spin the photo.

 

[LeBaron1973]

I have no idea I'm sorry, hopefully someone will know.

 

[ImpJay]

I have no idea I'm sorry, hopefully someone will know.

No problem, I have to call Doc.

 

[DocMcNeedy]

*put "check fluids" very top of your list.

plus, closely check your master cylinder/ brake booster, idler arm, ps pump, steering gearbox, fuel sending unit, carb, gas tank, blower motor, ATC...these are the main items that I have had rebuilt/replaced on most of mine that sat forever.
I don't do the work... But, I find the parts and resources for the 3 mechanics in 2 shops that know the Imperials pretty well now.

 

[ImpJay]

*put "check fluids" very top of your list.

plus, closely check your master cylinder/ brake booster, idler arm, ps pump, steering gearbox, fuel sending unit, carb, gas tank, blower motor, ATC...these are the main items that I have had rebuilt/replaced on most of mine that sat forever.
I don't do the work... But, I find the parts and resources for the 3 mechanics in 2 shops that know the Imperials pretty well now.

Actually the fluids are on the plan for next weekend. It is the PS pump, which I`m most concerned about. Excluding it, other chassis/steering components are good. Even the brakes are working per the drive to home and a short spin on last Sunday, but the Sure-Brake is yet to be tested. The blower motor blows well, but the front A/C has been taken totally off unlike the working 2-speed rear unit. The carb is a Holley with the aforementioned manual choke, which works as it should except that the choke cable is stiff.

Can you say, if I can use a steel wheel from a GM B-body as a spare? South West Trade has many Olds Custom Cruisers waiting for taking them apart, and I thought that one wheel with tire would be practical as a spare because they are comparatively cheap and easily accessible. They have the correct bolt pattern, are 15`` in diameter, but I don`t know what the width and backspace are.

``The left C-pillar pillow is not where it should be.`` Do you know a solution for this, which doesn`t require removal of the headliner. The pillow has metal clips on the surface that comes into contact with the pillar and the clips should be turned to grab on the headliner material.

 

[ImpJay]

Yep! It is fully and completely broken. Been there done that a few times.

Doc and Impjay,

Some Wiggling Required:

Glad you were able to find one! It’s a quick change item you should be able to do in 20 min.

Having done it a few times, and because the FSM doesn’t really cover this, here’s what I’ve learned.

Start by trying to move the seat as far forward as the proven switch will allow by working the broken button with a narrow blade standard screw driver. Likewise, set the front and rear tilt to their max height to allow for access underneath should it be needed. Once this is done, disconnect the battery as the switch is connected directly to the battery circuit and you don’t need any shorts in the harness.

Begin removal of the trim that the switch is mounted to by first removing the two screws on the back of the seat that hold the trim.

Loosen the face screw on the front just under where your left leg sits when driving.

There is another screw just past the trim on some of the trim pieces in the front that you should take out last. Then take out the front face screw you just loosened above.

Carefully pull the trim straight outboard. Some wiggling required.

Because the seat is back, and, if you can’t move it forward, you will need to move it outboard enough to clear the switch (and the plug) from the hole in the seat frame... about two inches. There should be more than enough pigtail to the switch to allow this. If not, check underneath to make sure it is not fouled or held by a clip. If so clear and pull it through.

Disconnect the flat plug on the harness from the switch by gently prying it off with the same flat blade screw driver from before trying to have it come off all at once and not from one end first. Not doing this will pry the contacts from the plug and they will not make good contact with the new switch. DAMHIK

Using a 3/8” socket you should be able to remove the retainer that holds the switch to the trim. Note orientation of the switch and install new switch to match.

Plug in the new switch in the same orientation as the original and test it before putting it all back together. Again..DAMHIK.

While I had the seat fully up I would check that the tracks are clear and lubricated and that the seat moves in all directions freely.

Reverse the above steps to reinstall.

Hope this helps!

Impjay, I Love the green interior .... it looks to be in superb condition.

(copy of Javier aka 73 T&C`s reply)

 

[ImpJay]

Things are rolling (TAR #1): I got a letter, which tells that the seat switch is in the customs mail center, from where it goes to the local mail center before I get it. The tax is paid, so it moves quickly. It`ll be on my hands during next week at the latest.

 

[330dTA]

Truly nice Imp, congratulations!

As to the ”aftermarket radio” you were going to ditch, that’s an Original Chrysler Search Tune foot-switch operated Am-Fm radio you have there. Don’t ditch it! If you want to improve on it, have it converted to modern electronics.

And the rumble: you really have to do something about that. Imperial is not supposed to rumble. It should have resonators to both sides of the gas tank, and all you should be able to hear would be a silent hissing sound. The 440 would only make itself audible under WOT, and then, as you’re closing 110 mph, it would sound very much like a Harley Davidson motorcycle. But it should never rumble.

 

[ImpJay]

Truly nice Imp, congratulations!

As to the ”aftermarket radio” you were going to ditch, that’s an Original Chrysler Search Tune foot-switch operated Am-Fm radio you have there. Don’t ditch it! If you want to improve on it, have it converted to modern electronics.

And the rumble: you really have to do something about that. Imperial is not supposed to rumble. It should have resonators to both sides of the gas tank, and all you should be able to hear would be a silent hissing sound. The 440 would only make itself audible under WOT, and then, as you’re closing 110 mph, it would sound very much like a Harley Davidson motorcycle. But it should never rumble.

You refer to the original radio, which is on the dashboard where it is supposed to be. I`m getting rid of the radio, which is in the clove compartment. I don`t have any pictures of the latter. Wait a day or two, and I can post evidence.

Second: I like the sound so much that nothing will change as long as the system doesn´t leak. It doesn`t even drone or hit the chassis. Sorry about not making it the quiet luxury car, which it is supposed to be.

I´d like to hear about your Ny`er because I don`t recall any in EW1 around here.

 

[ImpJay]

TAR #2: I just made the deal of the fender skirts residing in Turku. The seller (predecessor for the guy, who sold Impster to me) sends them on the next Monday and pay the bill during the same day. I`ll get them for 100 euros and shipping fee. That`s about $114+xx.

I also called South West Trade to ask if they have the needed spare tire on wheel,
holder(the long and screw-like thing) for it and the locking gas cap. Answer is yet to come.

 

[cantflip]

TAR #2: I just made the deal of the fender skirts residing in Turku. The seller (predecessor for the guy, who sold Impster to me) sends them on the next Monday and pay the bill during the same day. I`ll get them for 100 euros and shipping fee. That`s about $114+xx.

I also called South West Trade to ask if they have the needed spare tire on wheel,
holder(the long and screw-like thing) for it and the locking gas cap. Answer is yet to come.

Amazing what you folks find available on other continents.

 

[ImpJay]

Amazing what you folks find available on other continents.

If I had been ringing earlier, I would have been able to buy other parts, such as the original air cleaner and Thermoquad.

Last autumn we were able to buy a whole stash of parts for dad`s 79 LeBaron from one friend of ours. He has a lot of Mopar stuff (and whole cars) such as 69 Fury wheel opening moldings.

The LeBaron, or ``Paroni`` as we call it:

The exhaust system is a bit different and we have yet to see 100% identical wheel covers even on an Olds.

 

[ImpJay]

Today`s visit to the garage wasn´t like what was planned. I added only windshield washer fluid to Impster. Mostly I was helping dad on his car and one friend came there, so it was the right time for a late joyride(no snow).
``The President didn´t have enough money for a car this kind,`` he said.
``Nope, Kekkonen had to settle down to a Cadillac,`` I replied.

This is the radio, which I´ll get rid of. Also the same friend promised that I can take some black plastic to make a DIY floor for the clove compartment.

 

[ImpJay]

I don't know, the heater/defroster "probably" operates through the Airtemp unit as the ATC is an early version of today's climate control systems.
Look at the rear of the trunk right behind the seat as that's where the rear A/C evaporator is located.

I guess it was just a matter of not being used as it did blow cold yesterday.
To Doc: it seems like the car has a new master brake cylinder due to its yellow passivation that one of my friends pointed out.