Incredible tire pictures...

live4theking

Old Man with a Hat
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So, this a 215/70R15 Mastercraft Glacier Grip II that was on our 2007 T&C. It's about 2 months shy of being 4 years old with just shy of 30k miles.

Fortunately for me I was on a back dirt road doing only about 30 mph and the tire was on the back when this happened. Also I was less than 2 miles from home. This tour really passed inspection in April.
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An idea what would cause a tire to catastrophically fail like this? I heard pop then the back of the van immediately settled.

My wife was sure glad it happened to me.
 
It blew out, probably due to seperation of the tread from the body of the tire. Most of the remaining damage is the run flat type.

Tires, especially if they are left parked on dirt pick up moisture between the tread plies and the tire rots from the inside out.

Dave
 
Glad you are ok. I have seen a lot of blown out tires over the years but that one seems to have blown in several places. I shudder when I think what would have happened with the van fully loaded and on a highway at 70 mph.
 
Dave,
Thanks for the thoughts on the tire. The van stays in a dry garage most of the week coming out once or twice.

In that case, you probably got a defective tire. Also note that some of the discount tire shops are now selling Chinese made tires. Same quality control issues as with everything else they make. What brand of tire was it? Master craft used to be a Tire Factory brand, but I hear they are now sold pretty much everywhere. If memory serves me correctly, they are a Korean Tire.

Dave
 

I wonder if it is the same parent company that makes the master crap parts for auto zone.

Dave
 
I am fairly certain that Mastercraft (and Hercules) are made by Cooper. Cooper makes a lot of house brands. Somewhere on the tire there is a tire manufacturer number that you can Google to find out who makes them.

Based on my experience and a friend's personal experience, I will NEVER drive a car with a Cooper brand or manufactured tire. Too many incidents of internal defects resulting in a blow out. Had 3 tires fail 1.5 hours into a trip several years ago and one of the bad tires was the spare that had never been on the ground and it was not a 10 year old tire. Less than a half hour of driving and it, like the tire it replaced developed a tread shift and as I was pulling onto the highway breakdown lane it blew (left rear) and then the right rear blew seconds later. Bleep Cooper.
 
In my earlier days at the dealership, I got to carry many "blow outs" to the tire stores for adjustment, for the customer. Some of the tires were torn up from driving deflated/flat for an extended distance.

Once, on the parts truck, I picked up something which slung out. By the time I got to another dealership, the lh front tire was flat. This was in the earlier '80s. when tire sidewalls were more substantial and thicker. It did not fully deflate until I got to the intersection at the dealership. Freeway speed was 65mph or so. I got it changed and the spare installed.

When we put a new tire on the wheel, I noticed there was minimal inside damage to the tire, unlike the ones our customers had run flat. Of course, they said that as soon as they noticed something, they looked for a place to pull to the shoulder of the road.

The other day, I pulled out from a customer's shop and heard a clicking noise that was tire speed related. I felt nothing, so figured it was a rock or something in the tread. About 10 miles later, a loud roaring noise ensued. No control problems, but I could tell things were a little softer in response. By the time "the wobble" happened, I was driving slow and was headed to an off-freeway parking lot. The Michelin LTX was wasted. So I called in and requested a replacement tire/wheel, which was provided.

In the earlier times, we generally had UniRoyal tires on the vehicles we sold. The tire dealer was a good guy to work with. Even if the tire was "shredded", if he could not find a puncture hole in the tire, upon close inspection, he'd adjust it. If he found a hole he could stick a wire through, no adjustment as it was "road hazard" related. At a time when road hazard coverage had been deleted from tire warranties.

In more recent times, tire sidewalls are NOT nearly as thick as they were in the (for example) HR78x15 days. With the P-metrics, the started taking weight out of the tires and the sidewalls was ONE area in which that happened. Those older HR78x15 tires usually weighed between 28-30 pounds. A current P225/75R-15 is now closer to 25 pounds. Be that as it may.

The sidewall damage is related to low-pressure/zero pressure driving. The tread split might have been due to something else.

MasterCraft is what I'd term a "decent" brand of tire, that "works" for many customers. For a long time, they were sold by Farm Bureau offices in TX, but now have a dealer network in rural areas.

As for "passing inspection", those inspections are usually for tread depth only. I somewhat doubt that wheels gets "rolled" to look for bubbles/bumps in the tread surface, which might indicate a pending tread separation.

Many newer vehicles are engineered to hot really indicate a low tire as some of the older vehicles might have been. The rounded body shapes don't help determine if one end of the car is "low" when you're driving it, either! So until you might feel a softer response to steering or bumps, you might never know what's going on . . . even with a tire pressure monitor system. Some of the earlier systems used wheel speed differences to determine if a tire was low, using the ABS sensors. The tire might go down to 15psi before it would trip those, by observation. Current ones are RF controlled with actual pressure sensors in the wheel valve stems.

There's just not much "meat" in modern tires, even if they look good on the outside. Sorry you had this problem and GLAD you survived it in good shape!

CBODY67
 
I am fairly certain that Mastercraft (and Hercules) are made by Cooper. Cooper makes a lot of house brands. Somewhere on the tire there is a tire manufacturer number that you can Google to find out who makes them.

Based on my experience and a friend's personal experience, I will NEVER drive a car with a Cooper brand or manufactured tire. Too many incidents of internal defects resulting in a blow out. Had 3 tires fail 1.5 hours into a trip several years ago and one of the bad tires was the spare that had never been on the ground and it was not a 10 year old tire. Less than a half hour of driving and it, like the tire it replaced developed a tread shift and as I was pulling onto the highway breakdown lane it blew (left rear) and then the right rear blew seconds later. Bleep Cooper.

We had the same experience with Cooper truck tires. We bought 20 of them and had several bead failures. (bead seperation)

Dave
 
I don't trust the tire pressure monitoring systems. I check mine with a varifiably accurate gauge at least once a week. It's like checking oil and coolant levels, lights etc. It's just routine
 
On some systems which indicate specific inflation pressures, I've noticed a slight variation in what the air gauge meter says and what the TPS indicates in the Driver Info Center. With modern 35+psi tire pressures, one or two psi differential is not a whole lot. But if you start with 24psi, it can be. These electronic monitors have gotten us out of getting "under the hood" to look at things. Good thing that modern vehicles generally have better durability than older ones, by observation.

CBODY67
 
I hear what you're saying.
Ice and snow tire driven in the heat and dry consitions.....
If I lived down south I wouldn't run them.

Thanks for all of the well wishes.

Straight from their website.
Overview
The Glacier-Grip II is a premium studdable winter passenger tire. This design is for drivers looking for excellent traction on snow and ice without sacrificing performance in dry or all-weather conditions.

As the old saying goes I guess you cannot make something do too many jobs or it doesn't do any of them well.
 
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