1. Rick_S

    Rick_S New Member

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    Hi everyone. I'm new to the forums so please forgive me if this question had been answered in a previous post. Question is: Do I need to remove the steering box to replace a leaking input shaft seal or can I remove the 4'' retainer ring with a spanner wrench from above? It's in a 70 Newport. Thanks for any available info. Rick_S
     
  2. Trace 300 Hurst

    Trace 300 Hurst Professional Tinkerer FCBO Gold Member

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    I think you're not getting an answer because we're not sure what you mean by "input shaft", but I'm guessing you mean the steering wheel or "worm" shaft that points towards the firewall. Do you have a Factory Service Manual either paper or an "e" version? Go here: MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals

    There is a special tool to remove the worm (steering wheel) shaft seal while in the car, and a similar tool to remove the gear shaft seal under the car. But I don't think you'll be removing that 4" retainer nut either in the car or out out of it. It's holding some serious stuff inside there.

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  3. Rick_S

    Rick_S New Member

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    Thanks Trace 300 Hurst. I'll try to remove it using the deck screw extraction method. It is the seal where the steering column connects to the shaft. Tools C-3638 and C-3650 are probably rolling around in the bottom of somebody's abandoned tool box. Wish me luck...Rick_S
     
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  4. Trace 300 Hurst

    Trace 300 Hurst Professional Tinkerer FCBO Gold Member

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    Maybe now that we're using the same words, perhaps someone here has some advice or will loan you those tools. I'm sure someone here has 'em, and seal pullers aren't limited to Mopars. It's a common tool in many sizes.

    But deck screws work too!
     
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  5. Rick_S

    Rick_S New Member

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    Success! I should have been a dentist. The extraction went as planned. New seal, no leaks, Life is Good once again. I also want to thank all who welcomed me to the C body community.
     
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2020
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  6. Trace 300 Hurst

    Trace 300 Hurst Professional Tinkerer FCBO Gold Member

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    If you really want some thanks from the Cbod community, you'd write up a nice "How To" on your dentistry work, including pics of the deck-screwed seal. :thumbsup:
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2020
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  7. 3175375

    3175375 Senior Member

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    Good work! As @Trace 300 Hurst stated, a write up with pictures would be great for us to steal knowledge from!
     
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  8. Rick_S

    Rick_S New Member

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    I'll try to make a futile after the fact instruction of what I did. Step 1: Disconnect the battery 2:Drive out drift pin in the coupling (pic-1) 3: Disconnect shift linkage ( in park position) 4: Remove access cover (pic- 4) under dash 5:Remove shift indicator rod on column. 6: Remove (2) column (3) flange bolts on the firewall(pic-3) 7: Support steering column with jack stand (pic-5) and remove (3) nuts from column support plate. The column assy should be free to pull back and separate from the input shaft at this point and position to allow for a little room to work in. Moving on to (pic-6) I used a #43 drill bit for the seal. It's a tight space to get in to (pic-8). I had to recess the bit into the drill equal to the length of the shaft with a little extra. In regards to the screw,it was just laying around in my vast unorganized inventory of loose hardware. Something similar to the drill size should work. You'll only need a few turns as the seal housing is soft metal. (pic-7) is the vice grip I used along with a small claw hammer in between the steering box housing to jack out the seal. Once removed clean out the area around the input shaft. Apply a thin layer of grease to the inner lip and outside edge area of the new seal . I used a 3/4'' deep socket to tap the seal back in. Not the ideal tool but works OK if you're careful. That's basically it other than start engine...check for a leak and reassemble in the reverse order. Hopefully.this tidbit will be useful to a member or two.

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  9. Trace 300 Hurst

    Trace 300 Hurst Professional Tinkerer FCBO Gold Member

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    I think that's a darn good tidbit that many folks might put to use in the coming years. Knowing that this common problem can be solved using your method, what with the very tight quarters involved, is half the battle.

    Good write-up, thanks.
     
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  10. Samplingman

    Samplingman Old Man with a Hat

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    Thanks for the write-up, I did the same operation with the pitman arm seal. Of course after that I noticed the worm shaft seal was leaking also so I’ll be tackling that this week.

    Here is a pic of my pitman arm seal extraction. That 1 5/16 nut was the hardest part. Why do they have to be torqued to 180 foot pounds?

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  11. Trace 300 Hurst

    Trace 300 Hurst Professional Tinkerer FCBO Gold Member

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    So the pitman arm doesn't fall off?



    (Nice work, BTW)
     
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  12. Rick_S

    Rick_S New Member

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  13. Rick_S

    Rick_S New Member

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    I believe 180 ft lbs is an industry standard spec for a nut of that size for that particular application. I have never heard of a pitman arm falling off as it is basically pressed onto splined shaft with little space to travel even if the nut did fall off also contributing to the difficulty of removal to access the seal. Looks like you've removed the whole steering box. If you did the pitman seal the input shaft seal is not nearly as challenging.
     
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  14. Samplingman

    Samplingman Old Man with a Hat

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    Yep, the box is out. I’m trying to do everything I can before the engine goes back in, since right now it is very difficult for me to get under the car. My torque wrench goes up to 150. I’ll do that and then give it one more good pull with the breaker bar, should be good enough.
     
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